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Fj-55 Door Hinge Rebuild With Grease Fitting
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
- Start date
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yep, they scraped 2 Hardinges.....as obsolelete!......it was heartbreaking to see them go.......the more modern stuff went overseas
re: knurling<LOL> actually was thinking about using the vise grip trick also!; already have $ORs hinges in place; they are not new, only rebuilt! did you tap the oil passages in the pin?, re: adjustable reamer; am hitting a wall here with the small sizes, any suppliers or metric equivalents?
Lou
re: knurling<LOL> actually was thinking about using the vise grip trick also!; already have $ORs hinges in place; they are not new, only rebuilt! did you tap the oil passages in the pin?, re: adjustable reamer; am hitting a wall here with the small sizes, any suppliers or metric equivalents?Lou
- Thread starter
- #43
Aligning the Stay
Finally! Meat and tators time, let the chips fly. Use a 5/16" drill to align the stay. Here is where a good vice comes into play. Chuck a 5/16" drill (same size as hole, not running of course) and run thru both stay straps. Your main concern is lining up the axis of the pin hole with the axis of the drill. The picture shows an X-Y mount for the vice. Ignore it, you don't need it. An unbolted vice will do fine here as long as it isn't too massive to be able to line up your X-Y.
Finally! Meat and tators time, let the chips fly. Use a 5/16" drill to align the stay. Here is where a good vice comes into play. Chuck a 5/16" drill (same size as hole, not running of course) and run thru both stay straps. Your main concern is lining up the axis of the pin hole with the axis of the drill. The picture shows an X-Y mount for the vice. Ignore it, you don't need it. An unbolted vice will do fine here as long as it isn't too massive to be able to line up your X-Y.
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- Thread starter
- #44
Drilling the Stay
Ok, here goes, point of no return. Chuck your 9.5mm Triumph 118deg twist drill and go to town. Make sure your drill bit has enough extension to drill through both sides of the stay in one pass. Otherwise, whats the point with lining it up. Forget about drilling one side at a time. Axial alignment is the hole point. Ok whole point, fun with the Queens English. hey, ps, anyone have a GOOD vice? Can I borrow it?
Ok, here goes, point of no return. Chuck your 9.5mm Triumph 118deg twist drill and go to town. Make sure your drill bit has enough extension to drill through both sides of the stay in one pass. Otherwise, whats the point with lining it up. Forget about drilling one side at a time. Axial alignment is the hole point. Ok whole point, fun with the Queens English. hey, ps, anyone have a GOOD vice? Can I borrow it?
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- Thread starter
- #45
Checking your work.
Hey Lou, looky there, it's a Craftsman! ****man. Check it out, one pass to size on a 9.5mm, guess I will have to go back to the U size drill. Anyone have a Drill press I could borrow? Apparently, the bearings are a little shot. My intent was to ream to size next. Maybe I will get it right with the lower hinge. Oh, good idea to use your drill rod to check fit. That way finished pins won't get all bunged up.
Hey Lou, looky there, it's a Craftsman! ****man. Check it out, one pass to size on a 9.5mm, guess I will have to go back to the U size drill. Anyone have a Drill press I could borrow? Apparently, the bearings are a little shot. My intent was to ream to size next. Maybe I will get it right with the lower hinge. Oh, good idea to use your drill rod to check fit. That way finished pins won't get all bunged up.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Shall I knurle or set screw?
Before you start reaming your stay straps to size, you need to make a decision. Shall I go with knurled pin or drill and tap the back of the stay straps for set screws. If you want to go knurle then you will have to size the stay strap holes appropriately. The hole to recieve the knurle must be larger than 3/8". How large? Not so large that the knurle doesn't grab but not so small that the knurle takes too much force to drive home. The opposite side must be a ring to interference fit. Oh oh forgot some definitions. Do that next. Of course, now that I bunged it up, I might be able to demonstrate both techniques.
Before you start reaming your stay straps to size, you need to make a decision. Shall I go with knurled pin or drill and tap the back of the stay straps for set screws. If you want to go knurle then you will have to size the stay strap holes appropriately. The hole to recieve the knurle must be larger than 3/8". How large? Not so large that the knurle doesn't grab but not so small that the knurle takes too much force to drive home. The opposite side must be a ring to interference fit. Oh oh forgot some definitions. Do that next. Of course, now that I bunged it up, I might be able to demonstrate both techniques.
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- Thread starter
- #47
Notes on Zerk Fitting Orientation
Before you go any further, one more very important point. If you decide to go knurle then this is very important to you. If going with set scews then read anyways but no sweat because you will be able to orient the grease zerks at your pleasure. Study your planned zerk orientaton, the zerks on the lower hinges (because of the spring) will have to be oriented down, opposite the spring mechanism. The rear upper hinges have to have the zerk oriented to the notched stay side due to the Stay design. Upper fronts are take your pick.
Before you go any further, one more very important point. If you decide to go knurle then this is very important to you. If going with set scews then read anyways but no sweat because you will be able to orient the grease zerks at your pleasure. Study your planned zerk orientaton, the zerks on the lower hinges (because of the spring) will have to be oriented down, opposite the spring mechanism. The rear upper hinges have to have the zerk oriented to the notched stay side due to the Stay design. Upper fronts are take your pick.
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- Thread starter
- #48
Definitions, "Fits"
Definitions, definitions, definitions. Goldylocks and the three bears. Ring Fit: easy, think of the ring on your finger. If you can push the pin in with your fingers and no slop you have a ring fit "this one is just right". Interference fit: If you need a hammer to tap the pin in then, small hammer and light tapping "just right". 3lb drilling hammer and lots of force? Stop! before you break something. That is not an nterference fit, it is blacksmithing.
Definitions, definitions, definitions. Goldylocks and the three bears. Ring Fit: easy, think of the ring on your finger. If you can push the pin in with your fingers and no slop you have a ring fit "this one is just right". Interference fit: If you need a hammer to tap the pin in then, small hammer and light tapping "just right". 3lb drilling hammer and lots of force? Stop! before you break something. That is not an nterference fit, it is blacksmithing.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Drilling and tapping the stay for the set screws
The first picture shows a way to align your stay so that the drilling axis intersects the pin axis. Mark the back of your stay (on both stays, for perpindicular axis). About a 1/4" in from the inside of the stay strap. You were planning on tapping both sides weren't you? The second picture is IDK, a waste maybe, anyways it is that center drill youv'e been wondering why I told you to buy. Center drill far enough down to create a chamfer big enough to accept the tap size drill you will be using next. The third picture shows the actual drilling. I used a 13/64", I know, drill sizes 7 to 10 for 1/4-28, what do you think 1/4 means? Relax! 13/64" drill works fine. The last picture shows the hand tapping process. Don't go drilling through the whole stay, just the back! Don't go running to your Mamma telling her I told you to do it wrong just because of the first picture. Sorry, pictures 3 and 4 are on the next line.
The first picture shows a way to align your stay so that the drilling axis intersects the pin axis. Mark the back of your stay (on both stays, for perpindicular axis). About a 1/4" in from the inside of the stay strap. You were planning on tapping both sides weren't you? The second picture is IDK, a waste maybe, anyways it is that center drill youv'e been wondering why I told you to buy. Center drill far enough down to create a chamfer big enough to accept the tap size drill you will be using next. The third picture shows the actual drilling. I used a 13/64", I know, drill sizes 7 to 10 for 1/4-28, what do you think 1/4 means? Relax! 13/64" drill works fine. The last picture shows the hand tapping process. Don't go drilling through the whole stay, just the back! Don't go running to your Mamma telling her I told you to do it wrong just because of the first picture. Sorry, pictures 3 and 4 are on the next line.
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- Thread starter
- #50
The missing pictures
I guess the computer will only allow two pictures per
I guess the computer will only allow two pictures per
Often referred to as the felis domesticus sphincter...
BTW I got my pins in the mail! Tomorrow I go in search of tools...
- Thread starter
- #52
Sweet, OregonCruzer, What do you think of them? I am trying to knock this job off before the rains hit again. You know why! Were Oregonians, working in the rain is a priviledge, the norm. If the rivers bump up I will be shooting down to my happy place, dodging Bald Eagles and bad casts. Unfortunately, we cut off I 5 before hittting duck town and it is beeline, focus and anticipation. I hope to have the thread finished tommorrow. 50lb silver bullets, bed rock death holes and O size flys are taking more of my thought and time right now than this thing. Focus! damn it. It is the let me see........ the felis domesticus sphincter!
This just give me more reason to get my 8 weight sent off to Sage... The pins look great! I thought I'd have more trouble fabbing them, but it seems straightforward (knock on wood).
- Thread starter
- #54
Way it is going, you might want to start looking for the adjustable reamer now. I called Palm Abrasive, they are a week out on it. I will try Hall Tool tomorrow. You are right about the pins, they are no big deal. It is the fit to the hinge that is critical. The fit is what I worry about you guys doing, that and getting the tooling lined up.
- Thread starter
- #55
Lou, I found an example of a good reamer. These guys make a HSS straight reamer. At least you will know what a good reamer looks like after you check out their website Chadwickreamers.com. Your going to looking for a UPC # 21070, that is a 107-5A Straight. Maybe their site can hook you up with a distributor. I would stay clear of the carbon steel unless You plan on only doing a few rigs. Question about those SOR rebuilt hinges. Did they use a larger than stock pin (stock is 5/16)?
- Thread starter
- #56
Alignment for Drilling the Hinge Strap
This operation is a repeat of drilling the stay, so basically pictures for your entertainment. So, guess all I can say is be careful. this is the begining of the most critical steps. The pin thing, well forget it, nothing really. Oh, by the way, Wondering why I haven't shown you how to make the pins yet? Screw this up and you will get it as you drive to pick up your 13/32" drill rod. All of that work making pins you can't use. Maybe you will also enjoy scrounging up replacement hinges or going after the land on your upper rear hinges to make room for a larger pin. Feel the burn! take your time and extreme care performing the next few operations. Ya, I know, one guy who definitely should be kept away from those horses. So here we go again......for your amusement, aligning the hinge strap. drill stopped, align hinge strap. Drill to undersize!
This operation is a repeat of drilling the stay, so basically pictures for your entertainment. So, guess all I can say is be careful. this is the begining of the most critical steps. The pin thing, well forget it, nothing really. Oh, by the way, Wondering why I haven't shown you how to make the pins yet? Screw this up and you will get it as you drive to pick up your 13/32" drill rod. All of that work making pins you can't use. Maybe you will also enjoy scrounging up replacement hinges or going after the land on your upper rear hinges to make room for a larger pin. Feel the burn! take your time and extreme care performing the next few operations. Ya, I know, one guy who definitely should be kept away from those horses. So here we go again......for your amusement, aligning the hinge strap. drill stopped, align hinge strap. Drill to undersize!
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- Thread starter
- #57
Reaming the Hinge Strap
Here we go, Adjust the reamer until it just starts to cut. Make sure the reamer nuts are tight with each adjustment. Use your drill rod to size the hinge strap. Keep in mind as you repeat this process that the final adjustment will be as little as a few degrees. Very touchy. You are looking for a perfect ring fit. The pin should rotate freely with no slop between the pin and the hinge strap. as you ream, watch your axial alignment in order to avoid coning the hinge strap. Ream through.
Here we go, Adjust the reamer until it just starts to cut. Make sure the reamer nuts are tight with each adjustment. Use your drill rod to size the hinge strap. Keep in mind as you repeat this process that the final adjustment will be as little as a few degrees. Very touchy. You are looking for a perfect ring fit. The pin should rotate freely with no slop between the pin and the hinge strap. as you ream, watch your axial alignment in order to avoid coning the hinge strap. Ream through.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Checking for Hinge Strap to pin fit
Okay, so what do you expect from a degenerate, breaking my own rule and using a finished pin to check the hinge strap fit. Perfect fit if the pin rotates freely with no slop between the pin and the hinge strap.
Okay, so what do you expect from a degenerate, breaking my own rule and using a finished pin to check the hinge strap fit. Perfect fit if the pin rotates freely with no slop between the pin and the hinge strap.
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- Thread starter
- #59
Lower Hinge
Go on do it all again with the lower hinge. The attached picture for you're consideration. Consider not breaking the spring hold open links. Trading one hassle for another.
Go on do it all again with the lower hinge. The attached picture for you're consideration. Consider not breaking the spring hold open links. Trading one hassle for another.
- Thread starter
- #60
Reaming the Stay Straps
Alright, you drilled your stay strap with that 9.5mm drill instead of a 3/8" drill (if you do this, remember to blame it on the equipment). Ream through the strap opposite the spring base (ream to a ring fit). After your reamer clears the first strap, keep going into the second strap but do not ream completely through. The reamer setting that yields a ring fit will give you one sweet interference fit on the opposite strap if you DO NOT ream completely through. The amount you ream into the second strap will do a nifty job of contolling the fit! Your reamer is tapered. When you do not ream completely through you are taking advantage of the reamers tapered design. If you are going with knurled pins then you will need a completed pin at this time. Go back and ream the strap opposite the spring base to interference fit the knurle. Use the pin to as a guage to size the Stay strap. Remember, no blacksmithing! Follow this procedure with all four of your lower hinges. Perform the same reaming steps on all of your upper stay straps with the exception of orientation for the zerks. This picture shows the reamer at the cut depth I stopped at to achieve a perfect interference. Man that's a nice thing!
Alright, you drilled your stay strap with that 9.5mm drill instead of a 3/8" drill (if you do this, remember to blame it on the equipment). Ream through the strap opposite the spring base (ream to a ring fit). After your reamer clears the first strap, keep going into the second strap but do not ream completely through. The reamer setting that yields a ring fit will give you one sweet interference fit on the opposite strap if you DO NOT ream completely through. The amount you ream into the second strap will do a nifty job of contolling the fit! Your reamer is tapered. When you do not ream completely through you are taking advantage of the reamers tapered design. If you are going with knurled pins then you will need a completed pin at this time. Go back and ream the strap opposite the spring base to interference fit the knurle. Use the pin to as a guage to size the Stay strap. Remember, no blacksmithing! Follow this procedure with all four of your lower hinges. Perform the same reaming steps on all of your upper stay straps with the exception of orientation for the zerks. This picture shows the reamer at the cut depth I stopped at to achieve a perfect interference. Man that's a nice thing!
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