first post - protection questions (1 Viewer)

[green_machine]

Hello all-

I have been lurking for a little while, mostly while I plan my purchase of an FJ/FZJ. I ended up buying Kippers truck. I have wheeled some with the rising sun club in CO with my Rover, so some of you may know me.


Anyway, I am a fabricator/sculptor, and no stranger to the wheelin' scene, however, this vehicle seems to provide some unique scenarios. I have search and read several threads regarding vehicle armor, but I have some specific questions.

Here we go:

Toy frame: spring steel? How does it react to welding?

Sliders: (goes with frame above) Has anyone just sectioned tube to slide over the frame, weld that on, then use 1x2 tube as outrigger to the 2x3or4? Seems easiest. Then plate the outriggers to form a "belly pan". I have viewed George's plans, (great work BTW) but s*** even with my equipment that's a lot of math and angles to cut.


Rear bumper: do most section the frame, or cut and re-weld mounting points?

Front bumper: seems pretty clear, but I haven't found many tube versions.

Suspension: It doesn't seem that anyone is converting mounts and running 12" shocks. Why not?


This vehicle will end up being set up for a max trail of 9 on the Colorado scale, 4+ on the Utah version.

I thank you in advance for your advice and help.

 

[MaddBaggins]

Welcome, good to have you with us!
Iwill be fabbing a tube front bumper for mine in the next few weeks with the help of a friend. I'll post up some pics when its done.
Oh yeah, official mud welcome

 

[ryanjl]

I area most troublesome on sliders is that of the catalytic converters on 95-97 models, as they stick below the fram rails under the passenger side front door. If you are talking a model year earlier than that, it's a bit easier.

Some have welded sliders direct to the frame without issue, but most use bolt on sliders that are easily removable for maintenance on exhaust, etc. If you are an experienced welder and don't mind grinding the sliders off if you need to, this isn't a problem.

The only tube front that I know of is this one from Marlin Crawler:

 

[green_machine]

I area most troublesome on sliders is that of the catalytic converters on 95-97 models, as they stick below the fram rails under the passenger side front door. If you are talking a model year earlier than that, it's a bit easier.

Some have welded sliders direct to the frame without issue, but most use bolt on sliders that are easily removable for maintenance on exhaust, etc. If you are an experienced welder and don't mind grinding the sliders off if you need to, this isn't a problem.

The only tube front that I know of is this one from Marlin Crawler:

thanks. I am also looking for pics of home brews, I like the cleanliness of the Marlin, and I will probably plagerize the design.


Anyone got any help on my other questions?

Bueller?

j

 

[snowcruiser]

Welcome

I used George's design to build the outriggers for my sliders and it is time consuming and takes some patience but you will appreciate the results. One thing to think about if you are considering smaller tubing for the outriggers is deflection as the outriggers do flex under weight and these trucks are not lite.

Most of the production rear bumpers (not one-offs) are a bolt on design mounted over the existing rear cross member. Look at Slee, Hanna, UpNOver, Kaymar and TJM. The hard-core rock krawling types usually end up triming some of the frame to maximize clearance but these trucks can be quite capable without triming. Just removing spare from underneath, the tow hitch and the factory tow hooks and the resonator (coffee can on end of exhaust) will help your ass-end quickly gain 7 inches of clearance. Personally my favorite rear bumpers are from 4x4labs but I have not seen one in person. I am almost through building my own rear bumper that is a combination of deisgns that I like and it mounts directly over the rear cross member so that I always have the option of returing to stock form if hell ever froze over.

Good luck with Fabbing!

 

[alia176]

John,

Welcome to the "other" side. So far that makes two former RR owners on this board. I wonder how many more are lurking!

I found using George's design pretty straight forward since I used AutoCAD regularly. After printing out his drawings using 1:1 scale, they became my templates for the metal cutting.

Good luck with what ever you end up doing.

Ali

 

[green_machine]

John,

Welcome to the "other" side. So far that makes two former RR owners on this board. I wonder how many more are lurking!

I found using George's design pretty straight forward since I used AutoCAD regularly. After printing out his drawings using 1:1 scale, they became my templates for the metal cutting.

Good luck with what ever you end up doing.

Ali

Well Ali, I am not "former" yet. No one has bought the rangie yet. It will make someone a sweet ride.

I am NOT a cad whore, and can't even figure out autocad or turbocad. Maybe you can show me how to print out 1:1.


As for weight, you have never weighed a rangie have you? Mine weighed in a 6240, and was considered a lightweight for the armor it had. The key to smaller diameter tubing is good design.

 

[ryanjl]

A little off topic, but...

Some have welded sliders direct to the frame without issue, but most use bolt on sliders that are easily removable for maintenance on exhaust, etc. If you are an experienced welder.....

forgings | john henley designs
www.forgingsdesign.com
sculpture|furniture|fabrication

Well, that answers that. LOL

Nice stuff you've made there!

 

[green_machine]

well, I started chopping today.

see below:

 

[green_machine]

bumperettes?

 

[green_machine]

cut out the stock crossmember. brake bent some .25inch to replace it. That saved close to 3 inches of the arse.

added in a receiver hitch. Made the bumperettes out of .125 wall will stainless supports.

Hitch via rockstomper. Thanks Scott!

All of this weighs less than 90lbs.

Stay tuned.