First oil change! Questions...

scottm

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Dip stick, seems like it should go in further, and I'm 1/2-qt low after adding 8.5 qts. The O-ring doesn't want to go in past the opening, but it looks like it should.

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I have the Jowett filter housing, so I think I don't need the small O-ring. I used to have a Lexus where the small O-ring went inside the filter housing, just want to make sure I'm not missing something, small O-ring would go under the valve?


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What is this sheet metal tab on the engine side of the oil filter housing?

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This oil is like water, would it void warranty to use RotellaT Synth 5W30? My 80s and 100 loved that stuff. $8.15/qt doesn't bother me so much, it is the skepticism that this thin stuff is more likely for CAFE numbers than protecting my investment.

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scottm

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Greased it, better.

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scottm

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Missing a few of these, M8x1.25x30 with captive washer and lock washer. Source?

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bloc

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@scottm the metal tab is to keep the stock oil filter housing from loosening on its own. Most of these have them bent so they don't even do that job anymore.

Also note that there are two different bolts of that thread/pitch. The pictured one goes into the two square holes on each side metal splash guard, and six go into the plastic under-engine/transmission guard.

There is a different part number with a smaller washer that go along the inner edge of each of the splash guards into the metal strut that connects the radiator support to the suspension cross-member.

And two more of the one you pictured hold that strut to the support and crossmember.

I can't remember whether it's the large or small washer version that go into the oil drain plug hatch.. don't think it matters either way.
 

scottm

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@scottm the metal tab is to keep the stock oil filter housing from loosening on its own. Most of these have them bent so they don't even do that job anymore.

Also note that there are two different bolts of that thread/pitch. The pictured one goes into the two square holes on each side metal splash guard, and six go into the plastic under-engine/transmission guard.

There is a different part number with a smaller washer that go along the inner edge of each of the splash guards into the metal strut that connects the radiator support to the suspension cross-member.

And two more of the one you pictured hold that strut to the support and crossmember.

I can't remember whether it's the large or small washer version that go into the oil drain plug hatch.. don't think it matters either way.
Thanks, I'm trying to get them where they make sense. Several dealership oil changes, lost some bolts, moved some, threw in some odd ones (at least they tried). All had low-strength thread locker after I installed the bumper, re-applying this time around.
 

bloc

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Forgot to discuss oil.

As long as it has the required specifications from the manual they can't deny warranty. Now technically the manual will say 0w-20 works in all conditions, but I believe it also lists some ILSAC requirements that as long as your oil hits that you will be covered.

My skids are no longer installed but I just got an idea for a picture that shows where they all go. Also with anywhere near the correct torque they shouldn't need thread locker. 70k miles on mine with them removed every 5k (at least) and none have gone missing since I started doing the work instead of the dealer.
 
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Artie

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This is one of many oil debate threads. I say ‘debate’ because there are some very good reasons to change and not change and both camps have their support on here.

FWIW I split the baby and went 0W30.
 

scottm

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Forgot to discuss oil.

As long as it has the required specifications from the manual they can't deny warranty. Now technically the manual will say 0w-20 works in all conditions, but I believe it also lists some ILSAC requirements that as long as your oil hits that you will be covered.

My skids are no longer installed but I just got an idea for a picture that shows where they all go. Also with anywhere near the correct torque they shouldn't need thread locker. 70k miles on mine with them removed every 5k (at least) and none have gone missing since I started doing the work instead of the dealer.
Low-strength threadlocker, I think it seals the threads and keeps salt spray out in Michigan winters. I've tried a lot of different greases and snake oils, threadlocker seems to do best, but hard to know for sure. It might also keep fasteners from falling out.
 
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bloc

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JEWETT OIL FILTER CASE FOR LC200

Greetings from San Antonio, TX

Since we're discussing the oil change. Does anyone have experience ordering aluminum oil filter case from Jewett?
This topic was popular on this forum previously. I believe there was a lot of people who installed the filter case. Any issues / concerns anybody?

Also, I do have problems getting in touch with Brian from the Jewett. Does anybody know if he is still active?
Any known aluminum alternative to Jewett cases?

Thank you!

Alex
 

hankinid

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JEWETT OIL FILTER CASE FOR LC200

Greetings from San Antonio, TX

Since we're discussing the oil change. Does anyone have experience ordering aluminum oil filter case from Jewett?
This topic was popular on this forum previously. I believe there was a lot of people who installed the filter case. Any issues / concerns anybody?

Also, I do have problems getting in touch with Brian from the Jewett. Does anybody know if he is still active?
Any known aluminum alternative to Jewett cases?

Thank you!

Alex
Easily the best investment I've made on my 200 Series. Cleanup on the garage floor and me has decreased by 98%.

Iirc, Brian is still active. He tends to make and ship in batches of a hundred or so. He's a straight shooter.

-hanko, ex-TX
 

hankinid

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@scottm I can't remember whether it's the large or small washer version that go into the oil drain plug hatch.. don't think it matters either way.
 

hankinid

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Small washer. You could diy it at most any hardware store.
 

bloc

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Small washer. You could diy it at most any hardware store.
The factory parts with the captive washer and tapered end are convenient.
 

707Cruiser

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Hi, I did my first DIY oil change on my LC200 2009 this past weekend so wanted to post a question in this thread vs. starting a new one. Before I put the skid plate back on I wanted to post a pic of my (stock) filter cap and retaining clip post oil change... Does the retaining clip look correct? I ask because the design of the clip is different from other models I saw in some of the videos and it didn't seem to want to come off and I didn't want to force it. But, the filter cap came off and went back on without issue with the special tool and is torqued correctly. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

retainer.jpg
 

bloc

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Hi, I did my first DIY oil change on my LC200 2009 this past weekend so wanted to post a question in this thread vs. starting a new one. Before I put the skid plate back on I wanted to post a pic of my (stock) filter cap and retaining clip post oil change... Does the retaining clip look correct? I ask because the design of the clip is different from other models I saw in some of the videos and it didn't seem to want to come off and I didn't want to force it. But, the filter cap came off and went back on without issue with the special tool and is torqued correctly. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

View attachment 3082439
Totally normal. If you torqued it correctly that thing won’t get used anyway, but the redundancy isn’t a bad design decision.
 
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