Firing up a 2F that's been sitting for about a year and a half...

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J

jdog35

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It's new to me, but the previous owner says it ran just fine (and drove it daily) before he started to restore it.

However, I'm pretty sure he didn't drain the fluids, so whatever was in there at the time is still there now (most likely).

My order of process was going to be this:

Change oil
Drain gas
Mineral oil in cylinders/valves
Clean plugs and reinstall
Possibly clean out carburetor (although it looks pretty good right now)

Is this overkill/necessary, or am I being overly cautious? Any thoughts would be MOST appreciated:)

Thanks all!
 
a year and a half really isnt that long. Check the oil level and the coolant level, squirt some gas in the carb and see if hits. let it run a while then chane the oil and check the plugs. Ive done this on many engines and never had a problem. just check the oil pressure when it cranks.
 
Startup

I agree with Ron. make sure there is oil and coolant in the engine, put a stron battery in it, shoot some gas into the carb and start it up. if ti starts let it warm up and then change oil and filter. Good luck! Gary S
 
I'll add one additional step that may be the difference between life and death. Read through my FU and do not repeat my mistake. https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/281801-may-potm-cochon-de-tere.html

The oil primer tool is easily fashioned by using a 3/8", long wood drill bit. Take said bit and grid off the tip and take some sharpnes off the edges as well. Insert into drill...pull out the distributor and insert your newly fashioned primer tool into slot on the oil pump and pull the trigger. Prior to removing dist....take particular notice as to the direction/location of the rotor. You'll want to make sure it is pointing in the same place on the reinstall. Turn the key to the on position and have a buddy look at the oil pressure gauge to ensure it pumps up. If all is good, take care to insert the distrubutor making sure in is in the correct position and fully inserted/seated with the oil pump.

Then start it up !!!
 
IMG_0776.webp


Thanks for all the help guys!!! I'm making progress thanks to y'all!

This image, hopefully, is highlighting the only remaining connection I need to make on the carburetor. However...I don't have a clue what plugs into this. Is it the vacuum hose from the carburetor? If not...where does that vacuum hose go? :) Having a tough time finding detailed images on what and where things are supposed to do and go.

As usual, all help is MOST appreciated:)
IMG_0776.webp
 
jdog35 said:
View attachment 400202


Thanks for all the help guys!!! I'm making progress thanks to y'all!

This image, hopefully, is highlighting the only remaining connection I need to make on the carburetor. However...I don't have a clue what plugs into this. Is it the vacuum hose from the carburetor? If not...where does that vacuum hose go? :) Having a tough time finding detailed images on what and where things are supposed to do and go.

As usual, all help is MOST appreciated:)
Click to expand...

That is the AAP and according to Jim C. unless you have a healthy 2F with headers it is probably not needed. It gives an extra shot of fuel. You can hook it to manifold vacuum and see if it makes a positive difference in performance or just leave it unhooked. Make sure the diaphragm under the cover is not torn.
 
Ahh haaa...Thanks! So then where does the line from the distributor go? That is still unhooked and I can't seem to find images on that showing where that hooks into (if anywhere).
 
trans fluid works great too....turn the motor over a few times prior to firing it up, that way if you have a sticky ring it may come unstuck.....let the min oil or trans fluid set in there for a day or so....
 
jdog35 said:
Ahh haaa...Thanks! So then where does the line from the distributor go? That is still unhooked and I can't seem to find images on that showing where that hooks into (if anywhere).
Click to expand...

The distributor connects to the fitting on the valve cover side at the carb base. It would appear you currently have a vacuum hose connected to it disappearing somewhere away from the distributor.
 
IMG_0781.webp

So in this picture you can see the hoses I have, and the corresponding numbers on them. I cannot, for the life of me, determine absolutely which hoses go where, and what hoses may or may not be in the correct place.

IMG_0777.webp

And this is the hose from the distributor goes where?

I swear I'm not a complete moron with cars, I just have ZERO experience with something this old:/ I feel like a total dolt.

Thank you guys!
IMG_0781.webp
IMG_0777.webp
 
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jdog35 said:
View attachment 400453

So in this picture you can see the hoses I have, and the corresponding numbers on them. I cannot, for the life of me, determine absolutely which hoses go where, and what hoses may or may not be in the correct place.

View attachment 400454

And this is the hose from the distributor goes where?

I swear I'm not a complete moron with cars, I just have ZERO experience with something this old:/ I feel like a total dolt.

Thank you guys!
Click to expand...

You have a bunch of issues. Take the hose from the advance on the dizzy and hook it to the carb base where hose 3 is now. Cap the nipple where hose 3 currently hooks to the intake and the cap the nipple next to it currently causing a huge vacuum leak. 1 & 2 are your fuel supply and return lines. It would also appear your header flange where it meets the head is warped. Do you have a exhaust leak there?
 
Whoa...thanks John. I have no idea if there's an exhaust leak yet as I haven't turned the engine over. I'm assuming the 'dizzy' is the distributor? Sorry, trying to catch up on the shorthand lingo.

For what it's worth, I do have a new Weber 38 sitting in a box that came with the rig. Is it worth installing over what you see out of the stock carburetor's condition?

Thanks again for all the help guys. No way a project like this could be managed by such a newbie to these rigs alone.
 
jdog35 said:
Whoa...thanks John. I have no idea if there's an exhaust leak yet as I haven't turned the engine over. I'm assuming the 'dizzy' is the distributor? Sorry, trying to catch up on the shorthand lingo.

For what it's worth, I do have a new Weber 38 sitting in a box that came with the rig. Is it worth installing over what you see out of the stock carburetor's condition?

Thanks again for all the help guys. No way a project like this could be managed by such a newbie to these rigs alone.
Click to expand...

Yep, dizzy and dissy are short for distributor. Since the carb is already on there I would try to use it. You will need to totally change the throttle linkage system to use the Weber. The red arrow points to what appears to be a massive exhaust leak except there is no carbon which I find strange unless the motor had not been run since that intake/exhaust gasket was installed. I had a warped header flange like that due to the header impacting a rock. Had to pitch the header as I could not get it bent back. If you can't get the stock carb to behave after a rebuild then slap on the Weber, or even better, sell it and buy one of Trollhole's brand new OEM knockoffs.
IMG_0781.webp
 
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