Firewall interior (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rochfort
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Sound deadener 
I'm planning on two coats of Lizard Skin and a coat of bedliner on the whole interior and underside.
and indoor/outdoor carpet over top
- Thread starter
- #5
.
...will it trap rust maybe?
That is a classic debate… it is not my concern in a dry climate so I have used Lizard Skin. Similar to paint with a properly prepped and primed surface and full coverage the manufacturer sure thinks you’re fine. There are many examples here that seem ok… but they don’t live in “la jungla” 
wimberosa
SILVER Star
I'm researching this currently. Everyone has an opinion...some of them strong. I'm not going to debate it over in my build thread when i get around to documenting it. What I plan on doing.....
Step 1) constrained layer dampening. This is something like kilmat or nvx or half a dozen different vendors of butyl layer. It needs to be stuck to the metal and is more about resonance (vibration of the metal) than anything else. Fundamentally the payoff appears to be in areas where large (unsupported or semi-supported) panels are (think door skins or wheel wells). I'm using nvx.
Step 2) is some form of closed or open cell foam. If you are doing sound deadening then open cell foam seems to be better. I am doing this for heat insulation and closed cell foam is apparently better for that.
Step 3) is some form of heavy material to dampen low frequencies and cover as high a percentage of sound entry points as you can. Both carpet and mass loaded vinyl are reasonable options
Steps 2 and 3 are really "sky's the limit" on prices. Everyone seems to have a product in this area.
For me i'm going with volume of coverage in steps 2 and 3 but try to minimize cost. Thus I'm building my own multi-layer with home depots version of these product types (technoflex mass loaded vinyl) and (rubber-cal closed cell foam). MLV is really quite heavy and shipping costs can be prohibiitive...thus home depot with its free shipping to the store is a plus. I DO NOT plan on gluing proucts in step 2 and 3 to the flat portion of floor but instead the MLV+foam be glued together. For vertical surfaces I will probably just use a high tack cement and localize those as separate cut pieces of MLV+foam. The point here for me is to be able to just lift up all the flat portions of the MLV+foam on the floor if necessary for cleaning, etc.
Note that my version of MLV+foam is probably not as flexible as some of the higher end products.
Step 1) constrained layer dampening. This is something like kilmat or nvx or half a dozen different vendors of butyl layer. It needs to be stuck to the metal and is more about resonance (vibration of the metal) than anything else. Fundamentally the payoff appears to be in areas where large (unsupported or semi-supported) panels are (think door skins or wheel wells). I'm using nvx.
Step 2) is some form of closed or open cell foam. If you are doing sound deadening then open cell foam seems to be better. I am doing this for heat insulation and closed cell foam is apparently better for that.
Step 3) is some form of heavy material to dampen low frequencies and cover as high a percentage of sound entry points as you can. Both carpet and mass loaded vinyl are reasonable options
Steps 2 and 3 are really "sky's the limit" on prices. Everyone seems to have a product in this area.
For me i'm going with volume of coverage in steps 2 and 3 but try to minimize cost. Thus I'm building my own multi-layer with home depots version of these product types (technoflex mass loaded vinyl) and (rubber-cal closed cell foam). MLV is really quite heavy and shipping costs can be prohibiitive...thus home depot with its free shipping to the store is a plus. I DO NOT plan on gluing proucts in step 2 and 3 to the flat portion of floor but instead the MLV+foam be glued together. For vertical surfaces I will probably just use a high tack cement and localize those as separate cut pieces of MLV+foam. The point here for me is to be able to just lift up all the flat portions of the MLV+foam on the floor if necessary for cleaning, etc.
Note that my version of MLV+foam is probably not as flexible as some of the higher end products.
I like stuff that is removable like making your own fitted mats. Hard for rust to gain a foot hold if you can see it.
- Thread starter
- #9
- Thread starter
- #10
That is a classic debate… it is not my concern in a dry climate so I have used Lizard Skin. Similar to paint with a properly prepped and primed surface and full coverage the manufacturer sure thinks you’re fine. There are many examples here that seem ok… but they don’t live in “la jungla”
Cardboard aided design is easy enough. You can glue the carpet to the deadening material to hold the pieces together. Maybe some velcro on the top end of the fire wall to hold it up. Or install some snap.
3M sound deadening pads will disintegrate into sticky globs in warm climate and over time.
- Thread starter
- #13
Great idea, thanks!
I've got an old wool carpet I might use as well.
