Finally a working hatch lock! (1 Viewer)

[poptart]

First off, this is all thanks to @ToyotaMatt over at Vintage TEQ Parts.

When I purchased my ‘88 FJ62 the rear hatch wouldn’t lock and the key didn’t work. After a bit of research I realized one of the PO’s swapped out the FJ62 power lock cylinder with a FJ60 cylinder. I had no idea what the code was for it so I couldn’t just get another key and carry an extra one just for the rear hatch like a smuck lol. Anyways, long story short I messaged Matt and he was able to hook me up with a used FJ62 rear hatch cylinder, catch was, he can’t recode the rear hatch cylinder so, I bought a whole set, like I really wanted to carry that extra key anyways lol.

Here’s the whole set!
The drivers door, passengers door and fuel door are pretty easy and self explanatory to replace. Just pop the lock tab and pull the old one out and slide in the new one.

The ignition is a little trickier. To get the old cylinder out you have to remove the four screw holding the top steering column plastic on. Then insert the old key and turn to “acc”. Once there you grab your favor pick and push it into the hole on the front on the column, circled in the pic below. Yank on the key and the whole cylinder slides out.

The rear hatch is pretty tricky there a two bars attached, one to the release mechanism and the other to the power lock actuator. Pop both of those off and if you have a power lock cylinder remove the tabbed clip holding the power lock arm on. You won’t be able to get it in and out of the hatch with that guy one. Then just wiggle the cylinder out and flipping the rear arm however needed to make it work. Install is just the reverse of this.

This purchase was worth every penny. Nothing is worse than have stuff in your truck and hoping the no one walks by and just presses the rear hatch release to see if it’s locked.
Again @ToyotaMatt really hooked me up with this, can’t thank him enough.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[fruitjack]

sorry for calling out such an old thread but this has been bugging me for quite a while - and I'm referencing the rear hatch lock:

so all you have to do, disconnect all the rods that attach it to the solenoid and the lock released THEN remove the tab (which then removes the metal part the solenoid was attached to). and now you'll be able to slide the cylinder out of the hole. I'm one of those yoyos who need every last detail explained. and like I said this has bugged me for a long while, I was actually wondering how I'd be able to get that snap ring off - to give you an idea about how much I was over thinking this.

 

[poptart]

sorry for calling out such an old thread but this has been bugging me for quite a while - and I'm referencing the rear hatch lock:

so all you have to do, disconnect all the rods that attach it to the solenoid and the lock released THEN remove the tab (which then removes the metal part the solenoid was attached to). and now you'll be able to slide the cylinder out of the hole. I'm one of those yoyos who need every last detail explained. and like I said this has bugged me for a long while, I was actually wondering how I'd be able to get that snap ring off - to give you an idea about how much I was over thinking this.

That’s pretty much it. Getting to come out or go in with the metal bits on the back of the cylinder is a bit of pain. You have to find the prefect angle and it lever it in. Not hard but takes a minute to figure out how to get it in or out.

 

[fruitjack]

done! a problem that vexed me for a year, finished in a few minutes. it wasn't too hard at all thanks everyone!!!

 

[kirvesmies]

why swap out the ignition? just cut a blank key with ignition on one side n door locks on the other. i've done that for my 's 98 Z71. i've also cut 2 yota's lock pattern into one key. those locks only have tumblers on one side

 

[poptart]

Cause I’d rather not be bothered with having a 50/50 chance getting it wrong 100% of the time.

 

[kirvesmies]

Cause I’d rather not be bothered with having a 50/50 chance getting it wrong 100% of the time.

easy fix! small notch in the edge on one side at the head. don't even have to look at it to use correctly

 

[fruitjack]

so i took this idea to my locksmith; they disagreed; their counter-statement was that the key needs to rotate freely in the lock; yes, the tublers may only be on one side BUT if the other side of the lock contains a shape that MAY just MAY get blocked then it won't work. totally refused to make the key for me. maybe your milage will vary.

 

[kirvesmies]

so i took this idea to my locksmith; they disagreed; their counter-statement was that the key needs to rotate freely in the lock; yes, the tublers may only be on one side BUT if the other side of the lock contains a shape that MAY just MAY get blocked then it won't work. totally refused to make the key for me. maybe your milage will vary.

that's something i never considered. buy a blank, cut your own with a file n some patience n test it. hell, with as sloppy as the old 'yota keys can get, sometimes you can use some one else's key any way. back about 30 yrs ago, i had a '79 fairmont, an '81 zephyr and an '82 f250' all 3 keys were cut the same. so i guess my mileage really varied

 

[damoP]

Hi all,
I have a very similar problem with my hj61. I can’t lock the rear latch. I can’t turn the key in rear lock. My power lock actually works, but doesn’t stay locked. You can simply push the button and the actuator doesn’t hold locked. Any ideas on getting the actuator to hold shut.
Also Poptart, when you say remove the ‘tab’, what exactly is the tab?

cheers guys. I’ve had my hj61 for 8 weeks and absolutely loving it.

 

[damoP]

OK. So I slid the tab off. But how on earth did you get the metal gear at the back out through the hole. Ill keep trying

 

[damoP]

Ok. update no 3. Got the metal ‘tab’ off the end and lock is out. Cheers

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I will be making a intense effort to have the largest aftermarket Lock cylinder manufacturer outside the usa try to Reproduce

this , and indeed with a METAL button verse the plastic one .......


i need 3 donor locks to make this work , broken rear tabs are OK too

thanks

 

[ToyotaMatt]

​

 

[damoP]

I will be making a intense effort to have the largest aftermarket Lock cylinder manufacturer outside the usa try to Reproduce

this , and indeed with a METAL button verse the plastic one .......


i need 3 donor locks to make this work , broken rear tabs are OK too

thanks



View attachment 2694059

Sorry Matt. I’ve only got the one I’m using in the car. When my locksmith pulled the barrel apart he showed me the plastic component in the centre of the barrel had worn so that it won’t lock properly. Have you any idea if these can be replaced or if there is a fix.