We are far from the salt belt states levels of salt on roads, but still not as free as it used to be.
Few issues on new to me 2013 LX. Loose hose. Grease. Headlamp washer leak.
- Thread starter Oogabooga
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
After my 2013 LC was in an accident and the front bumper was replaced, I also had a leak at the headlamp washer. IIRC, the body shop fixed it by lubricating the tube that connected to the washer. I believe they said that they just lubricated an o-ring.
bloc
SILVER Star
I wrote up fixing the same issue on mine.
Headlight washer/sprayer leaking
I tracked down a washer fluid leak under the DS corner of the front bumper today to the headlight sprayer on that side. I've seen mention in this section of seals that go bad and need hydration or lubrication.. Those that have fixed this.. what have you done? Is the mentioned seal on the line...
forum.ih8mud.com
You can remove the locking lug nut. Get sockets out and hammer on the one that will almost go over it. Hammer it on and remove locking lug. You will likely have to remove the socket on a bench by driving it out the opposite way with a hammer and some kind of punch. Repeat until all 4 are out. This may cost you your socket.
bloc
SILVER Star
And ditch the locking lugs once you get them off.. not worth the risk of breaking the key on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Stock standard lugs are part number 90942-01103 but prohibitively expensive.. I'd try to find used ones somewhere.
I did that on my 2013 LC. I haven’t yet done that on my 2020 LX, but I’m considering it.
As a recap, the differentials have a breather to relieve pressure when they get hot. The breather end is normally fitted with a loose end cap and terminates high enough to avoid water getting in. If the breather pipe/hose is disconnected, especially down low, it’s possible (but fairly unlikely) for dirt/water to enter the diff. I’m unclear about exactly what’s going on with yours, but given the vehicle history, I suspect the oil is fine. Just make sure sometime the breather is connected and somewhere close to the right location.
- Thread starter
- #28
Gotcha. So yeah it is definitely disconnected from the other piece that terminates with the metal cap. It’s something i can reconnected so I will do that since it is just a bare metal pipe with no “protection” from the metal cap right now. At least it is relatively high up though. Above the axle and hidden away in a little nook I can barely even get my hand into. That whole area looks really clean so I’m thinking not much road debris and dirt gets up there.
- Thread starter
- #29
I’m leaning towards this to avoid the hassle with getting a replacement key and then always needing to have it on hand. Any issue with using aftermarket lugs? Doesn’t bother me that something isn’t OEM as long as it’s good quality. I agree those OEM ones seem unnecessarily expensive.
- Thread starter
- #30
Anything against doing a “reboot” or whatever the proper term is? Looks like part 04427-60090 is a kit to do that for $50. I guess the only issue is that if during the process it looks like the CV joint is actually damaged then I’m screwed and have to wait around for a new axle anyways. I don’t hear any weird noises so what are the chances the joint is damaged.
Otherwise if I just get a new axle. Is this the correct one? Are they the same part for either front driver/passenger side.
One website for “Lexus” parts shows it as being compatible with either side even though it says “LH”
And then a “Toyota” part site specifies front driver side only. Also for $15 less.
If my assumption is correct, considering it’s all literally the same part at the end of the day. The Toyota one is fine and is in fact compatible with both sides.
- Thread starter
- #31
bloc
SILVER Star
The parts diagrams show the same part number for both LH and RH, 43430-60071 , But a quirk in the system is that it still has LH and RH on different lines in the listing. So what you are seeing is just a reflection of that.
And yes the toyota and lexus parts are the same.
The problem with rebooting your existing part is you don't know how low it was run on grease, or how long, even before the reboot. Then whoever did the existing reboot job didn't get the clamp right, so what else didn't they do?
IMO with a new to you rig that is so clean, just spring for the CV and start fresh, as you noted they aren't that expensive. Will you do the work or pay someone? Getting the CV out means disassembling the front hub, and just one detail there is a special tool is needed to properly torque the bearing to knuckle bolts.
And yes the toyota and lexus parts are the same.
The problem with rebooting your existing part is you don't know how low it was run on grease, or how long, even before the reboot. Then whoever did the existing reboot job didn't get the clamp right, so what else didn't they do?
IMO with a new to you rig that is so clean, just spring for the CV and start fresh, as you noted they aren't that expensive. Will you do the work or pay someone? Getting the CV out means disassembling the front hub, and just one detail there is a special tool is needed to properly torque the bearing to knuckle bolts.
- Thread starter
- #33
That makes sense. I’ll go that route and just start fresh with a new axle and not have to worry about it down the road.
I was planning to do it myself, honestly I only skimmed through a couple videos on YouTube (may have been for a 100 series tbh), but then found the official repair document in the factory service manual and skimmed through that also, at a glance it didn’t seem too bad but I did not catch the part about needing a special tool. Do you by chance know what tool that is? I was under the impression I may just need a couple uncommon sized sockets.
bloc
SILVER Star
See this post:
Big brakes for 08-15 using 16+ parts
Anyone paying attention to this section recently will have noticed @TeCKis300 excellent thread on an easy big brake kit for 08-15 cruisers using Tundra parts. Deep in that thread info emerged that fitting the 16+ brakes was more easy than initially thought, and as that method has been developed...
forum.ih8mud.com
You drove it 800 miles and had no issues. The cv is fine, that is what these vehicles are known for. Tighten the clamp if you can, monitor. If you continue to lose greasy, reboot. Relax a little bit, address things as they come. This is all stuff that you can address, but none of it is going to cause a major problem. You got a great truck that should last you 300-400k more miles. It’s all good.
