Fantastic Sound Quality with 6.5” CDT Door Speakers and 10” Memphis Audio Sub

[RichElliott]

Fantastic Sound Quality - Complete Audio System Replacement w/ Pics **Speaker Pods**

I just completed my stereo build in my 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser, with the help of my good friend, Michael Moretti. Goals for the project included the best possible sound quality on a budget of around $1300 with good sound separation and tight, punchy bass. I also wanted a decent sounding hands-free cell phone solution.




Build included:

• Head Unit: Alpine CDE-103BT.
• Front Doors: CDT Audio CL-62X 6.5" Component Speakers with Crossovers and HD-101 1” Silk Dome Tweeters.
• Rear Doors: CDT Audio CL-6EX 6.5" Coaxial Speakers
• IPod Integration with IPod mount in center arm rest console.
• Custom fabricated fiberglass and MDF door speaker pods.
• Custom mounted tweeters.
• Amp: Alpine PDX-5
• Subwoofer: Memphis Audio 15-SC10D4 Shallow 4 ohm DVC
• Custom fabricated sealed subwoofer enclosure.
• Wiring: Kolossous Fleks 4 channel amp installation kit, Karma SS 2 channel 6 meter RCS cable / Klear kable 16 gauge - 75 feet, and Klear kable 12 gauge, 15 feet.
• Misc: Navone Engineering 2 Channel LOC + Turn-ON/Off
• Sound & Heat Deadening: 2 layers of eDead 45 over all floorboards, Dynamat Xtreme on all four doors, Ultra Touch Cotton Double Sided Thermal carpet pad under front carpet.

The Results?

• I am blown away by how good this system sounds. This is definitely the best system (home or auto) that I've ever owned.
• This project was a ton of work and I learned a ton about working with wood, fiberglass, and automotive audio systems.

What I like best?

• The sound. Strong punchy bass, clean mid range and nice upper end with zero distortion, even at ear deafening levels. Sounds great at low volume too.
• The 16GB micro SD thumb drive is great and the sound quality is better than what comes from the IPod.
• The hands-free phone integration system works great and is a pleasure to use.

Any remaining issues?

• While I upgraded the ground cable from the battery to the frame, the draw from the amp sometimes makes the engine idle a little rough. I may need to do the Sequoia alt upgrade along with the remaining "Big 3".

Now for the pics:

GOOD BYE 1997 TOYOTA AUDIO SYSTEM:

HELLO 2011 AUDIO TECHNOLOGY:

Alpine CDE-103BT Head Unit:

Alpine PDX-5 Amp (under front driver's seat):

Speakers: CDT CL-62X & CL-6EX

Subwoofer: Mephis Audio 15 SC10D4

Front Speakers Installed with Custom Speaker Pods: CDT Audio CL-62X 6.5" Component Speakers with Crossovers and HD-101 1” Silk Dome Tweeters

Front Doors: CDT HD-101 1” Silk Dome Tweeters

Rear Doors - CDT Audio CL-6EX 6.5" Coaxial Speakers

Subwoofer: Memphis Audio 15-SC10D4 Shallow 4 ohm DVC

(On it's side for the photo)

Subwoofer in normal downward firing position:

Sound Deadening: Dynamat Xtreme on all four doors

Thermal Carpet Pad used under carpet to reduce cabin heat transfer (works too!):

Microphone for hands-free Bluetooth system:

Driver's Position View:

The new system held up great on it's maiden voyage run: 2000 mile trip to Yellowstone and back.

 

[FunkLord]

Nice SQ build. I like how everything is run by one classy little amp. People underestimate the sound from 10" subs, because most of the time people who use them are short on space and put them in tiny boxes. I like how you've maximized the enclosure size without giving up cargo space.

I'm interested in more details on how the front door speaker pods were built. Do you have any close up pictures or build pictures? I've got 2 more 6.5" speakers I want to add to my car, and that's the best place.

 

[RichElliott]

Nice SQ build. I like how everything is run by one classy little amp. People underestimate the sound from 10" subs, because most of the time people who use them are short on space and put them in tiny boxes. I like how you've maximized the enclosure size without giving up cargo space.

I'm interested in more details on how the front door speaker pods were built. Do you have any close up pictures or build pictures? I've got 2 more 6.5" speakers I want to add to my car, and that's the best place.

Thanks for your comments! The PDX-5 is a great amp with terrific reviews all over the place. After a couple of weeks using it, I'm convinced it's perfect for my setup. Same thing for the sub. I talked with a tech guy at Memphis Audio about ideas for various sub enclosures and determined that 1.0 cf inches of air space in a sealed enclosure would give me just the punchy tight bass that I was after. The results are better than I expected.

The placement of the front door speakers was huge PITA for me. With this project, sound quality was more important than OEM look and feel. Yet I still wanted to mount these huge CDT Audio woofers in a way that looked decent. Also, because of their 2 3/4” mounting depth these things needed to be at the bottom of the door. I ended up creating a streamline bolt on replacement for the stock map holder using fiberglass and MDF. I made the bolt locations in the same place as the original map holder for ease of installation. Considering this was my first time using a router and my first time working with fiberglass, I'm pleased with the results.


PICS:

Traced outline of map holder with cardboard and decided where the speaker would go:

Traced the outline to 3/4" MDF and used a router to cut out the shape. Also cut out a spacer and glued to the top. Used a rounding bit on the edges of the main piece and the spacer. I also bought a different bit to carve out some of the back of the main piece for weight reduction.

Read up about fiberglass from a few different websites, went to Home Depot, purchased the fiberglass and resin. Then went to work. I used a t-shirt for the first layer of resin.

After a little bondo and more sanding, it was off to the local upholstery shop for a layer of padding and gray vinyl.

 

[RichElliott]

btw

Just wanted to add...

The following two MUD posts were very helpfull for me in planning this build:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/411074-custom-door-panels.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/199503-thoughts-possible-subwoofer-upgrade.html


Thanks to everyone that helps make this forum happen!

 

[matt60/80]

Could you post some more info on how you routed the mic? I'm looking at relocating mine and really like where you put it.

 

[RichElliott]

Could you post some more info on how you routed the mic? I'm looking at relocating mine and really like where you put it.

Routing the mic was pretty easy, once I dug into it.

I removed the glove box, the passenger hand hold on the A pillar, and the passenger side sun visor. I also removed the trim piece around the controls for the sunroof.

I was then able to pull down the corner of the headliner over the passenger side just enough to get an old metal clothes hanger through so that it poked out where the sunroof controls are. Next, I taped the end of the mic cable to the clothes hanger and pulled it through.

I then used the same clothes hanger to push the cable down the A pillar. It came out near the glove box down below. I used zip ties to secure the cable over the glove box area and then pulled it through to the back of the head unit.

It took me about 30 minutes in total.

Hope that helps!

 

[matt60/80]

Thanks!

 

[FunkLord]

Great build pics!!
Thanks! That helps me out a lot.

 

[RichElliott]

Hello Everyone!

I just noticed that all of my photos on this thread had broken links. I had links to my IH8MUD photo albums and IH8MUD changed the photos paths at some point which broke all my image photos. At any rate, I have repaired all the broken image links and things should be working better now.

Enjoy!

More photos can be seen here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/media/albums/richs-1997-fzj80.256/

Also check out my other thread on this topic:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/grade-me-on-my-front-door-speaker-pods-what-do-you-think.510138/

Thanks,

Rich

 

[Blade 80LC]

Thanks for redirecting the links, to fix the photos. It's still a worthwhile post for someone installing a stereo (like I did last weekend), even if the electronics may now be 2 years old. I've left my stock speakers for now, but if I decide to upgrade, your strategy looked like it worked out well. Cool idea to use a t-shirt for your fiberglass base layer. Plenty strong for the purpose, and smoother than glass mat. Very smooth result. Perhaps not needed since you had it upholstered, but a brilliant idea for someone who just planned to paint the fiberglass-ed panel.

 

[baselfish]

bravo !!!

for the "uninitiated"....

aside from the fiberglass customization - which unto itself is top drawer - note his copious use of dynamat.
most (like myself) use it sparingly (as it is $$$$) just around and behind the speaker mount - he wrapped all 4 doors 100%.

secondly - as there was quite a discussion on subwoofers & stealth - excellent compromise -

loss of storage was minimal - looking in from the outside non one would know the wiser - and hell throw a couple jackets / towels
on top of it and it basically disappears.... soundwise too - im sure his 10" roxs the hell out of my 6" sub - but do note the size -
am guessing his box is ~2.0 ft3 - again for good bass - big sub + ft3 is the tired and true formula....

again top drawer brother - excellent job...
(thread bookmarked)


bf

 

[RichElliott]

bravo !!!

for the "uninitiated"....

aside from the fiberglass customization - which unto itself is top drawer - note his copious use of dynamat.
most (like myself) use it sparingly (as it is $$$$) around and the speaker mount - he wrapped all 4 doors 100%.

secondly - as there was quite a discussion on subwoofers & stealth - excellent compromise -

loss of storage was minimal - looking in from the outside non one would know the wiser - and hell throw a couple jackets / towels
on top of it and it basically disappears.... soundwise too - im sure his 10" roxs the hell out of my 6" sub - but do note the size -
am guessing his box is ~2.0 ft3 - again for good bass - big sub + ft3 is the tired and true formula....

again top drawer brother - excellent job...
(thread bookmarked)


bf

Thanks man. If I was to do it over, I would probably use less MDF. They are a little on the heavy side, but still fine.

 

[baselfish]

indeed - over the years there has been developments in synthetic speaker building materials ($$$$) - but for the cost and durability -
good old 3/4" MDF is the standard for sub building....drawback it can be a beast - ive toyed with the idea of using 1/2" MDF on the side panels
that can be face screwed - screwing vertically into 3/4" MDF is already a "art" to avoid splitting.

how hard has it been to resist tweakeing with active EQs' and xrossovers??...back in the day - had a PPI456 - which would be perfect for you system...

again from one car audio buff to another - much props brah....


Bf