Fan / Alternator Belt Idler Question (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 27, 2005
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The fan / alternator belts are routing across an idler pulley on my 94 LC. This pulley really started to whine recently and after identifying it as the culprit by removing it, I started to question why it is there in the first place. The inside of the belts barely touch the pulley and it is hard for me to understand its importance. Will one of you more experienced cruisers enlighten me?
 
rbsheppard said:
The fan / alternator belts are routing across an idler pulley on my 94 LC. This pulley really started to whine recently and after identifying it as the culprit by removing it, I started to question why it is there in the first place. The inside of the belts barely touch the pulley and it is hard for me to understand its importance. Will one of you more experienced cruisers enlighten me?

You'd probably have to ask a Toyota engine designer but the good news is that they are cheap from C-Dan. I replaced that idler puller, the A/C belt tensioner, the fan clutch, and all belts in one fell swoop.

-B-
 
Mine whined as well an I removed it to confirm and noted the same as you did. In fact even with the belts tensioned up I was able to replace the idler. At any rate the only reason I could come up with have it installed was the somewhat long distance from the alternator to the crank (for support). Just a thought.

kris
 
my cruiser did not have that pulley installed when I bought it, no ide how long it ran without it. I got a new one from Dan.
 
Unsupported belts can and will vibrate at certain RPMs/temps/ages/tightness, etc. When they do, they create considerable force spikes on the bearings of the other accessories and on the main crank. It is surprisingly easy to damage the crank front bearings as anyone who's had a crank vibration damper let go will attest. Prior to that damage, the oil seal on the front of the engine will sustain damage and begin dripping or worse.

It's simply not a risk worth taking. Especially considering the very reasonable price and easy install of a new factory tensioner.

DougM
 
Thanks for all the information. Can someone direct me to a link for C-dan so I can order a new one?
 
rbsheppard said:
Can someone direct me to a link for C-dan so I can order a new one?

Send him a PM (Private Message), or wait for the banner ad in the upper right corner and get the phone number, or look him up on the vendor pages here on this site, or search for the 500 "I love Dan" threads that have been posted in the past 6 months, or call 1-800-432-6668 and ask for the Parts Department. Be sure to tell them you hate mud. (It's the secret phrase)

-B-
 
Dan's on speed dial on my cell. As soon as you hear the nauseating taped voice (who is that moron??) telling you you've reached the parts department, hit 8 and you go to his extension.

DougM
 
ok. my dumb question for the day

my idler pulley is locked up tight - not turning at all,

how in the hell do I get that bolt out?
is there a set screw underneath the damn thing? Im beginning to think mine is welded in

PS - it's a normal thread - right? so I muscle it counter clockwise and it comes out?

maybe I can go get my sister to break the bolt loose for me.....
 
CJF said:
Ouch!

Spray it with PB Blaster (preferred) or at least WD-40 before you go at it again.

Curtis


Yeah careful I broke mine. I still haven't figured what my mechanic did to fix it but this thread reminds me I've got to order a new assembly.
 
Rusty Phillips said:
how in the hell do I get that bolt out?

I am certain you have a rusty phillips head that needs to be cracked loose.

(Sorry guys.... still feeling a little goofy from the anesthesia.) :bounce:

-B-
 
OZCAL said:
Yeah careful I broke mine. I still haven't figured what my mechanic did to fix it but this thread reminds me I've got to order a new assembly.


well, crap

we didnt break the bolt, but instead rounded up the head of the bolt pretty good.
wasnt able to get it out.
decided to quit when it got dark.

argh!
 

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