Failed motor mounts - URJ200 - Anyone had it happen? (1 Viewer)

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My driver side mount seems to be worse than @cruiseroutfit, judging from his video . The rubber that is normally inside the mounting housing is almost all gone. Passenger side mount was on it's way out too.

I was able to change both of them without removing the engine. I was able to get to all the bolts through the wheel well ,on either side of the front shock mounts, and had to remove the brackets that attached to the block.

I jacked up the engine using a block of wood and a hockey puck. I jacked it up a little to high and cracked the fan shroud.

Driver side mount came out towards the back after removing the front drive shaft u-joint heat shield

Passenger side came out towards the rear as well, I had to loosen the diff mounting bolts to get some wiggle room so the mount could drop out.

This will be more difficult if your vehicle is equipped with AHC suspension, since there are additional sensors, brackets and hoses on either sides of the shock mounts.

Took about 5 hours.
 
Just got this video back of my engine mount from my tech who was doing some other work on my truck. 2008 with 135k miles, kinda surprised to see this with the mileage/life that my truck has lived. I do tow, but it's like a Turtleback style trailer, so nothing very heavy. I def use engine braking in low range, but again wouldnt expect this to fail so early. The tech said as far as he can tell it's just the drivers side. His recommendation is to replace the 2 front mounts, but not to mess with the trans rear mount. Obviously it's a pain ($$$) with the labor bill, so I asked if anything else should be taken care of while the engine is jacked up. He said nothing he'd recommend. Thoughts? I'm thinking of going for it in the next few weeks

 
Just got this video back of my engine mount from my tech who was doing some other work on my truck. 2008 with 135k miles, kinda surprised to see this with the mileage/life that my truck has lived. I do tow, but it's like a Turtleback style trailer, so nothing very heavy. I def use engine braking in low range, but again wouldnt expect this to fail so early. The tech said as far as he can tell it's just the drivers side. His recommendation is to replace the 2 front mounts, but not to mess with the trans rear mount. Obviously it's a pain ($$$) with the labor bill, so I asked if anything else should be taken care of while the engine is jacked up. He said nothing he'd recommend. Thoughts? I'm thinking of going for it in the next few weeks


I think Kurt (@cruiseroutfit) has seen a number of these, so maybe he'll have an idea what else is good to do (if anything). Also perhaps how much labor it really is to get at...
 
You may want to go with a solid mount or a 138k maintenance scheduled item?
 
It appears to be taken of the left (driver side) engine mount. You can get a camera in that way but not your head to see it . Normally to get to these you need to remove that inner fender, but I'm not 100% sure on the LC200.

When you rev the engine, it will usually lift it especially if under torque.
 
It appears to be taken of the left (driver side) engine mount. You can get a camera in that way but not your head to see it . Normally to get to these you need to remove that inner fender, but I'm not 100% sure on the LC200.

When you rev the engine, it will usually lift it especially if under torque.
Makes sense. Yeah i climbed under this morning and couldn't visually see the area. I'll try sticking my phone up there and taking a video. I asked the shop that took the video, and they said it was the indeed driver's side front mount. He did also say it was fine around town as-is, it really just lifts the engin when rev'd in 1st gear low, or really rev'd hard in 2nd low.
 
I reached out to Cruiser Outfitters. The guy that responded (Bryce I think) said the only solid mounts they did was only for the Canguro 200, custom made. For anything else he recommends the factory mounts. No idea why mine failed at such low mileage (135k), he said they usually see on fails on " heavily offroad primarily under high speed desert driving". As much as I'd like to do some Baja type racing, I never have. Anyways, nothing he recommended to change at the same time. maybe I'll get a 2nd quote for the repair just to see if I get any different info.
 
Yours could be a freak incident.. but solid mounts seem like huge overkill unless we are talking a race vehicle.

I put solid mounts in a past sports car. Never again. Personally in your shoes I’d take my chances with a new OE part.
 
Yours could be a freak incident.. but solid mounts seem like huge overkill unless we are talking a race vehicle.

I put solid mounts in a past sports car. Never again. Personally in your shoes I’d take my chances with a new OE part.
Yeah 100% agree OE all the way. I got a quote for it (bad, but could be worse). I’ll probably go to a 2nd local shop for a quote just to compare
 
Factory seem strong enough. Save solid mounts for racing, and then you really should do them strategically as some parts really need flex and some don't.
 
How much? Was this a dealer price?
The mounts were pretty inexpensive (don’t remember exact price off hand), it’s really mostly just all the labor. I believe the Toyota book says 18 hours. The Lexus dealership I go says the Lexus book said 12, but the tech said he’d do it in 10 which is what they quoted me
 
I reached out to Cruiser Outfitters. The guy that responded (Bryce I think) said the only solid mounts they did was only for the Canguro 200, custom made. For anything else he recommends the factory mounts. No idea why mine failed at such low mileage (135k), he said they usually see on fails on " heavily offroad primarily under high speed desert driving". As much as I'd like to do some Baja type racing, I never have. Anyways, nothing he recommended to change at the same time. maybe I'll get a 2nd quote for the repair just to see if I get any different info.

This is correct. I personally wouldn't run solid mounts on a daily driver, but it's all that holds up on the Canguro 200 (Monica). We are seeing more and more fail as 200/570's get up there in age and used harder and harder. We stock and ship them regularly @ Cruiser Outfitters
 
Every time I see Monica out & about I think , wow, cool what they're doing with a LC just like mine.....then I get a peek inside the rear door, see those shock towers and remind myself to stay in the parking lot. lol

87k of nanny driving, motor mounts so far so good. At least they're not fluid filled like MB does...yikes.
 
For those of you who have failed motor and/or transmission mounts, what were the sign(s)?

I've been chasing a metallic pop/snap/clunk sound for a while. It's a single pop and really only happens when I'm at a stop sign and hit the gas kind of hard, or if I hit the brakes kind of hard at the end when coming to a stop. No noises while driving or normal braking. Front suspension (LCAs, tie rods) are all new and SPC UCA balljoints were done within ~15k of this starting. Suspension bolts and what not been re-checked; the noise persists though suspension seems tight on the highway (no slop or wandering). Doesn't happen when I stop and make a left or right turn (so I don't think it's the CVs).

If I brake stand it doesn't seem like the motor is moving much. I tried to get an iphone video of the driver's side engine mount but couldn't really get a great shot, though from the angle it looked like the DS motor mount was ok - however the truck also doesn't make the noise when in park or when doing a brake stand in drive.

One shop had someone lay under the truck and he said it sounded like it was coming from the aluminum skid under the transmission. I didn't think it was the skid but I dropped all 3 skids and the noise persists. I am wondering if the rear #1 engine mount (transmission mount) is failing under load, but I'm not entirely sure how to check? I do sometimes get a bit of a clunk when going D to R (or R to D) when stopped, and I have been feeling a bit of a driveline clunk during a 2-1 shift (or in other shifts like 3-4 if I'm going slowly in 4Lo can also sometimes do this), so again I'm wondering if this is potentially related, or if I should be looking at u-joints or the 2-piece driveshaft for wear/slop separately?

(Trying to find a mechanic in the Chicago area who can help with this has been a challenge. I'm hoping to get into a shop I trust out of the western suburbs in a couple weeks, but so far multiple mechanics near me as well as the dealer (who is usually decent) haven't found anything).
 
For those of you who have failed motor and/or transmission mounts, what were the sign(s)?

I've been chasing a metallic pop/snap/clunk sound for a while. It's a single pop and really only happens when I'm at a stop sign and hit the gas kind of hard, or if I hit the brakes kind of hard at the end when coming to a stop. No noises while driving or normal braking. Front suspension (LCAs, tie rods) are all new and SPC UCA balljoints were done within ~15k of this starting. Suspension bolts and what not been re-checked; the noise persists though suspension seems tight on the highway (no slop or wandering). Doesn't happen when I stop and make a left or right turn (so I don't think it's the CVs).

If I brake stand it doesn't seem like the motor is moving much. I tried to get an iphone video of the driver's side engine mount but couldn't really get a great shot, though from the angle it looked like the DS motor mount was ok - however the truck also doesn't make the noise when in park or when doing a brake stand in drive.

One shop had someone lay under the truck and he said it sounded like it was coming from the aluminum skid under the transmission. I didn't think it was the skid but I dropped all 3 skids and the noise persists. I am wondering if the rear #1 engine mount (transmission mount) is failing under load, but I'm not entirely sure how to check? I do sometimes get a bit of a clunk when going D to R (or R to D) when stopped, and I have been feeling a bit of a driveline clunk during a 2-1 shift (or in other shifts like 3-4 if I'm going slowly in 4Lo can also sometimes do this), so again I'm wondering if this is potentially related, or if I should be looking at u-joints or the 2-piece driveshaft for wear/slop separately?

(Trying to find a mechanic in the Chicago area who can help with this has been a challenge. I'm hoping to get into a shop I trust out of the western suburbs in a couple weeks, but so far multiple mechanics near me as well as the dealer (who is usually decent) haven't found anything).

Most common I've experienced:
 
Most common I've experienced:
Thanks Kurt. Yeah I read that. It looked like your mount was loose but not necessarily allowing the engine to lift upward... more lateral movement in this case?

It seems odd to me if it's a bad motor mount that my noise only happens at stop/start. If I'm moving along and smash the accelerator it doesn't clank. But I'm not a mechanic and don't really know how a bad mount will necessarily present itself.
 
For those of you who have failed motor and/or transmission mounts, what were the sign(s)?

I've been chasing a metallic pop/snap/clunk sound for a while. It's a single pop and really only happens when I'm at a stop sign and hit the gas kind of hard, or if I hit the brakes kind of hard at the end when coming to a stop. No noises while driving or normal braking. Front suspension (LCAs, tie rods) are all new and SPC UCA balljoints were done within ~15k of this starting. Suspension bolts and what not been re-checked; the noise persists though suspension seems tight on the highway (no slop or wandering). Doesn't happen when I stop and make a left or right turn (so I don't think it's the CVs).

If I brake stand it doesn't seem like the motor is moving much. I tried to get an iphone video of the driver's side engine mount but couldn't really get a great shot, though from the angle it looked like the DS motor mount was ok - however the truck also doesn't make the noise when in park or when doing a brake stand in drive.

One shop had someone lay under the truck and he said it sounded like it was coming from the aluminum skid under the transmission. I didn't think it was the skid but I dropped all 3 skids and the noise persists. I am wondering if the rear #1 engine mount (transmission mount) is failing under load, but I'm not entirely sure how to check? I do sometimes get a bit of a clunk when going D to R (or R to D) when stopped, and I have been feeling a bit of a driveline clunk during a 2-1 shift (or in other shifts like 3-4 if I'm going slowly in 4Lo can also sometimes do this), so again I'm wondering if this is potentially related, or if I should be looking at u-joints or the 2-piece driveshaft for wear/slop separately?

(Trying to find a mechanic in the Chicago area who can help with this has been a challenge. I'm hoping to get into a shop I trust out of the western suburbs in a couple weeks, but so far multiple mechanics near me as well as the dealer (who is usually decent) haven't found anything).
I had a single clunk for about 12 months I couldn't figure out. It was when braking or accelerating from a stop, usually under 15 mph. Then one day I was driving along in the city and HUGE clunk sounded like the engine hit the ground and the gas pedal just reved but that was it. Pulled to safety, had to have towed for the 1st time. Mine turned out to be failed universal Joint on the Propeller Shaft. So my thunk the past 12 months was that slowly failing. The loud clunk was the Propeller Shaft falling to the ground. Had numerous shops over that 12 month period NOT diagnose this, and it wasn't even on my radar of possible things to check.

I did also have my front motor mounts fail, that my regular mechanic noticed that he could feel the engine move when he'd come to a abrubt stop.
 

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