Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion

[grinchy]

So you're saying we have the jet pump, it's just not utilized, since the inlet on the main tank where the subtank connects is capped?

I suppose it means it is applying vacuum to the capped port?

I thought based on photo and part number compare it was in there, just not used. I think now it's not. We won't really know until I pull the pump on install day. It's a bummer, the pump is quite a lot of money more . . .

 

[grinchy]

They look the same to me . . .

 

[unclemat]

That's the pump itself.

I suppose the jet pump is a separate part and/or part the fuel pump bucket assembly no?

 

[grinchy]

The mounting plate and pump skus are the same cost as a whole new unit. Don't forget the o ring . . . and the $30 tool to remove the cap . . .

 

[grinchy]

That's the pump itself.

I suppose the jet pump is a separate part and/or part the fuel pump bucket assembly no?

Yeah, the pumps have different part numbers. I can't tell the difference from the outside.

2322038061	1	01.2012 - 09.2015	3URFE..URJ201 REAR NO.2 SEAT-WITHOUT
2322050271

And the mounting plate. These parts actually have different descriptions and look different

7702460230	1	01.2012 - 09.2015	URJ201 REAR NO.2 SEAT-WITHOUT
7702460211	1	08.2015 - 09.2015	URJ201

It may be viable to just do the plate - it's hard to know. The plate is only $40 or so.
Also the 'main' pump has a $10 generic option. Real part is $220.

The all in one sku

7702060372

1

01.2012 - 09.2015

URJ201 REAR NO.2 SEAT-WITHOUT

I'm not too bummed, my sending unit is already suspect. So winner!

 

[grinchy]

FIrst is the jet pump then a not great shot of the 'normal'. Definitely more going on with the jet pump version. If I had to bet on it, I think it's the same pump, and all the magic is in the mounting plate. But I really don't want my truck down for a week waiting for the new pump if it really is different. And I don't want to pull the pump more than once either as an experiment. Gah.

While we're here, the sender is a common part and its $70.

 

[TeCKis300]

Yup, it's going to be the line that's not plumbed in your picture that leads to the green plastic thing. Very likely the part won't be there in your existing assembly.

 

[grinchy]

Yeah for sure.
The other hint was that the Russian install replaced the pump parts as well. I just took a second look at it and they didn't replace the pump itself, just all the other parts. So the theory that the pump is 'the same' and its the mounting plate (and o rings etc) seems to be good. I'll throw all that stuff in a cart and see if it's enough less to monkey with rebuilding it.

Shipping excluded it's about $170 less for the parts excluding the pump itself. That includes everything in the full kit, even the sender.

 

[unclemat]

Interesting. The pump assembly is not much of a "bucket"; the pump(s) are suspended on these coiled wires.

 

[grinchy]

Interesting. The pump assembly is not much of a "bucket"; the pump(s) are suspended on these coiled wires.

there is a 'bucket' part that is part of the full BOM, but it is only a few inches deep.

While looking over the sender again I see that the five sender bolts on the sub tank missed my other BOM. Better add those . . .

I strongly considered rebuilding, and would have if I wasn't already having sender issues.

For a truck 12 years old, with 227k miles, I think a new pump is probably a good idea anyhow. Bonus it is guaranteed to work with the sub tank. Double bonus it has a new sender unit. Bad news - add $430 more to BOM.

Cheapest option - rebuild for just the new mounting plate - is around $50 I think.

 

[unclemat]

Grinchy, so according to the diagrams the subtank's straps hook up to these body brackets towards the rear of the car (same that people installing LRA cut off, circled below). Towards the front, they are supposed to bolt to the rails in body. Did you check if welded nuts are present there?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/lxlra9-jpg.1868337

On Long Ranger's webpage (not Long Range - I only now realized these are two different product/companies), they say:

Will the factory sub tank fit my vehicle that has only one standard tank​

Sort of, You will need to purchase a tank and the mounting straps. Then you need to figure out how you will fill it, how will you get the fuel out of it and how will you mount it, as the captive nuts to bolt it to the floor are not there on these models. If you want it to work automatically like the factory setup you will also need to purchase the transfer pump which is located in the main tank, numerous electronics and plumbing.There have been estimates of approximately $3000 (as at 2-2-08) for the genuine parts alone from Toyota

 

[grinchy]

Grinchy, so according to the diagrams the subtank's straps hook up to these body brackets towards the rear of the car (same that people installing LRA cut off, circled below). Towards the front, they are supposed to bolt to the rails in body. Did you check if welded nuts are present there?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/lxlra9-jpg.1868337

On Long Ranger's webpage (not Long Range - I only now realized these are two different product/companies), they say:

I did buy the straps and bolts. It's been raining for a few weeks so I haven't gone out and verified if the captive nuts are there. I remember seeing the holes when I pulled the spare tire carrier. If there is rear or side access I don't anticipate too much trouble putting the nut in with my toy welder. If not I'll drill it out and rivnut, and if that doesn't seem great we can always bolt thru from inside. <edit - i see you put a pic in - nice! Looks like pretty easy to solve for the two holes toward the rear. Not sure about the front yet. When the straps get in will take a look>

There will be fab for the charcoal canister as well . . .

I guess prices are down quite a bit since 2008. . . .

 

[unclemat]

Actually per the Russian site, these tabs are not used for the factory subtank. The parts diagram in your opening post does not show bolts in the rear for the straps - as if were "hooked up" to some bracket in the body; the bolts are only in front.

http://geotravel.life/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/viber-image.jpg

 

[grinchy]

It specs four bolts . . . could be two in the front! lots of these straps do have a slip or pivot to them, it'll be interesting to see what is really required to fit it up when the parts get in next week.

Are you considering an alternative securing method?

 

[unclemat]

Oh, yeah, found a video of Long Ranger install on a car with the factory subtank that shows the latter's removal:

 

[grinchy]

well, that video answers one question I had for fitting an aftermarket tank, it is possible to reuse the stock sender, and doing so requires just some stainless steel rod.

 

[grinchy]

I did check my 2009 LX570 re: the mounting bracket holes. At the bumper, the holes exist, but seem to have a plate or block behind them. No weld nut. Still wet here, so I didn't crawl under, but I assume similar toward the crossmember.
I'll be using rivnuts to address.

Unintended consequences: Will have to relocate my trailer wiring breakout box. Will have to relocate my small air tank, or procure one of a different shape.

 

[unclemat]

See if the nuts are there behind just that the sheet metal was not drilled.

E.g. apparently 2-row LC has welded nuts for 3-row seats welded, they are just hidden.

 

[grinchy]

See if the nuts are there behind just that the sheet metal was not drilled.

E.g. apparently 2-row LC has welded nuts for 3-row seats welded, they are just hidden.

I didn’t spend any time on it, just located checked for thread, hit smooth steel instead. Could be a range of things, but as the hole is there I don’t think they’d put the nut on a separate piece of metal that isn’t the frame extrusion.

 

[unclemat]

I see. I find it fascinating they bother to save on welded nuts in situations like this...