Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion (2 Viewers)

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Looks like it's not gravity fed but uses a venturi tube AKA jet pump. Otherwise plumping doesn't look too terrible.

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Hmm, I think we'd need one of those jet pumps then. I suppose it shouldn't be possible without having to replumb the main tank and drop it. Would be too easy. I'm thinking though of trying to just replicate the install linked previously which was pure gravity fed, and commissioning a custom tank to support that.
Should the vent on the gravity tank go to the filler vent, or tee into the evap canister side after the main tank?

Gravity Sub Tank Plumbing.png
 
This may help
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Yeah, I've got the BOM pulled off the sub tank page. Now going to pull the parts on my vin and see which ones are different. There is definitely a different charcoal canister plan in the global model, and I suspect most of the secret sauce in this fit up will be related to adapting to our US requirements for this.
 

The next fuel diagram in the model has the has a topo fuel of the emissions stuff. 7751 Fuel Tank and Tube, there are several variations . . .

<Edit this one has only 1 emissions line from the sub-tank, it is not possible to buy this tank, as far as I can find. The sub-tank you can buy has two emissions lines, possibly an in and an out>

Screen Shot 2021-01-23 at 10.48.49 AM.png
 
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I have all the part numbers for the sub tank (I think . . .) tracked down now. Haven't finished the pricing look-up.
The last thing I'm looking for is the main fuel tank side venturi bit, to see if it's a different pump or cover to allow for the 'sucking' from the sub tank.
 
Updated post 0. The BOM is $700 (without shipping), partsouq reference pricing. I didn't have it all in a cart yet, but I'm estimating $400 shipping. The two hardest to source pieces will be the sub-tank and the filler neck.

A considerable amount of cost could be saved by using generic fuel hose and cutting to length. Some of the specialist clamps are $5-10 each.

Still not sure about the main tank fuel pump or lid to fit the sub-tank input. That's the last piece to dig out of parts diagrams. <edit rebuilding the main pump interface is $70. The pump remains the same, it's the inputs, gaskets, o rings etc that need to be revised. Further edit - only a couple of pieces are needed to replace on the main pump. I suggest the o rings ($5 total), and the required part is the interface to go from the out and return to the out, the return and the sub-tank in ($15). The pump, spacer, pump reservoir, and valve all are the same part numbers. It is anticipated, but not yet known, that this service can be performed thru the body via the fuel pump replacement hole>
 
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Here's the BOM. There were a couple standoffs and clamps that came back part not found. Happy shopping!
<edit- update with 2nd version><edit add third version, which should be good to go!>

This BOM is everything. Every clamp. Every bolt. Every o ring. It includes stuff you probably don't need, like the Fuel Cap. Is it complete? We won't know until a couple installs are done. I suspect there are a couple items that will be required. Like every mod you take on, I'm not warrantying your shopping experience or install work. Fuel is involved, so use at your own substantial risk. Emissions are involved, so make sure you are complying with your local, regional, and federal laws.
 

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Without the filler pipe (apprx $180) and a few other oos items of about $50, but with the subtank, the partsouq cart is $950 including shipping (605 parts, 335 shipping). So depending on your shopping cart and shipping, all in is around $1200.

It's a shame it's only 11.8 gal.
 
It's a shame it's only 11.8 gal.

That's comparable to the LRA 12.5. From my experience with it a couple years now, even on the worse days under tow with a measly 8-9 MPG due to winds/grade/etc... I don't really wish for a larger tank for blissful long range travel. The expanded leash is so much more than the capacity suggests because it's fully utilized, without a need to keep reserve like with the main tank.

At least for me, anymore fuel and there's real tradeoffs to performance and payload capacities. As it is, I sometimes overload the rear axle to 5000lbs. There's just not much payload reserve to handle that much more fuel and tank weight. Then consider that larger tanks displace the spare, which then necessitates all sorts of other additions and weight to mount one.
 
Deep thoughts on evap flows

US 20# -> main tank -> (fluid valve in tank) -> tubing -> canister
Sub tank flow, it seems that the sub tank evap goes to the front of the car, not the canister? Thoughts?

<Edited with basic annotated diagrams, more focused question>










Main Tank Only Evap.png


Sub Tank 1 Evap.png


Sub Tank 2 Evap.png


Main Tank Emissions.png


Sub Tank Emissions.png
 
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Factory sub tank install on a Russian 200
Yes! This is exactly like one of those stupid Porsche options.... why even bother asking if you want bluetooth for $300. Just put it on all of them!
 
An item to add to the BOM from the linked install from eastern EU - the wire loom for the subtank sender. No idea if the connection or brain will work in NA models, but it's only $15 to find out.
1611630288988.png
 
I've completed the diff between two diagrams with sub tank and without. Updated the BOM post. This version won't have any 'extra' parts in it, so you may want to add a fuel tank gasket for the pump assembly. ALso note the EU build replaced the fuel pump assembly. I can't figure out why, it appears the tank and pump assembly are the same in both models, but there is potentially a different pump interface at the top to add the venturi/jet pump fitting. It's $20 for the part, so I'd recommend getting it until we know more.

BOM is less than $1k with shipping now that the redundant parts are filtered out.
 
When are you trying out the install, @grinchy? ;)
 
tagged for interest
 
I’m probably a couple months out. It does look pretty straightforward and the cost isn’t too bad. Getting a filler neck is definitely the hard part.
 

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