Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion

[grinchy]

@grinchy, can you elaborate how you wired the sensors? Obviously you had to run harness from the sub tank to the cabin, and so from the main tank. Then where did you wire the output? Back to the middle of the car where the main tank factory harness is?

Do you part numbers/source for the connectors (and pins) to build such a harness? Sorry if you posted and I missed it.

Also part # for the generic switch? I would want to follow your steps and install the switch. Seems simplest/most robust.

Sub tank fuel sender - frankly it’s unnecessary. I never check the sub tank fuel level. Buy the gasket and bolts and make a block off plate would be my advice. If you do get a sender, you chop the car side plug off the harness, run two conductor to the left lower dash (I used the left rear entry grommet), tap into the main tank input wires. It’s probably easiest in the area near the dead pedal. The LX and TLC have different pinouts , but the principle is the same. Get a 3 position dual terminal switch (six pins).
You put the main tank out on one set of pins, the sub tank out on the other set of pins, and the gauge cluster in on the output. So the gauge cluster can read whatever sender the switch is set to.

Look at pictures in post 205 for the wires in the Lx that go to the gauge cluster. And 290 for pics of the generic switch and where I put the switch.

I spent quite a bit of time in the wiring addendum to the FSM, so you’ll need to get that as well.

switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QH5QKHB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[grinchy]

@unclemat regarding the fuel pump changes, I went back and dug up my parts list and looked at a few pics.

The full replacement part number is 77020A TUBE ASSY, FUEL SUCTION W/PUMP & GAGE 77020-60372. This is what I ordered.
If you want to replace just the parts associated to the sub tank venturi, there are two:
The fuel pump
23221 PUMP, FUEL 23220-38061
The distribution plate at the top of the pump
77024A PLATE SUB-ASSY, FUEL SUCTION - 77024-60230
and of course you need the hose from the top of the plate to the sub tank
77206C TUBE SUB-ASSY, FUEL MAIN, NO.2 77206-60461

I didn't go this route, so I can't say if those two are all, but it seems quite likely.

Here's the relevant picture, I believe from PartSouq

Of course the little yellow clips, a new gasket, etc as well, these are on the parts list I posted up.
If you're looking at parts diagrams, sometimes they'll have the comment '3URFE..URJ201 REAR NO.2 SEAT-WITHOUT' -> this is a part used in the sub tank sub BOM. It's not 100%, but if you see that, it probably should be included.

I can't post the spreadsheet file type here, if you want it drop me a PM and we can figure it out,

 

[Julian73]

Sub tank fuel sender - frankly it’s unnecessary. I never check the sub tank fuel level.

I agree, although I'm not in those horse race as I already went the LRA 12.5 direction I agree that the auxiliary tank level is of not much concern and decided to not get upset with the LRA's gauge that seems to give random readings when partly filled. I operate the tank as either full or empty. Keep it full and if I need to transfer or want to transfer to keep the gas fresh I do a batch transfer after main tank gets to 1/4 level.

A question for you or any others with JDM or LRA auxiliary, does your distance-to-empty reading update in account for the refill? It's odd to me, one fills up main tank at a gas station and distance reading updates immediately , while after a transfer it can take 50 miles of driving before it accounts for any additional milage and even the gauge level is slow to respond to the extra fuel. I've wondered it a reset doesn't occur unless engine is off (as in a normal fill up), but it doesn't seem to make much difference. Again more reason I do a total aux transfer, so at least I know I've added about 11 gals and base my distance to empty on that. When I have done a partial transfer im alway guess how much really moved over and how much range do I really have.

 

[gasman4u]

I agree, although I'm not in those horse race as I already went the LRA 12.5 direction I agree that the auxiliary tank level is of not much concern and decided to not get upset with the LRA's gauge that seems to give random readings when partly filled. I operate the tank as either full or empty. Keep it full and if I need to transfer or want to transfer to keep the gas fresh I do a batch transfer after main tank gets to 1/4 level.

A question for you or any others with JDM or LRA auxiliary, does your distance-to-empty reading update in account for the refill? It's odd to me, one fills up main tank at a gas station and distance reading updates immediately , while after a transfer it can take 50 miles of driving before it accounts for any additional milage and even the gauge level is slow to respond to the extra fuel. I've wondered it a reset doesn't occur unless engine is off (as in a normal fill up), but it doesn't seem to make much difference. Again more reason I do a total aux transfer, so at least I know I've added about 11 gals and base my distance to empty on that. When I have done a partial transfer im alway guess how much really moved over and how much range do I really have.

My trip computer takes a while to recalculate after filling from LRA aux tank. I don't know how long of a time/distance it is, but definitely NOT instant.

 

[grinchy]

Same here, the main fuel gauge is not instantly responsive.

As the OEM fuel transfer system is always active, the sub tank fuel is used first, so it’s only full after a fill event. The gas gauge will read ‘full’ until the sub tank is emptied. Then it will sweep down the 24 gal in the main tank

 

[bloc]

@lx200inAR From my experience working on these lines I’d suggest spending some time on them with an old toothbrush and some compressed air, before opening. Reduces chances of contamination and can even make the release clips operate more smoothly.

I see that a canister out of a recent Corolla has an identical 8-pin connector (7-pins present) and overall similar shape, but much shallower. I may volunteer and check if that thing works correctly in the 200. Part # 7774002220. If it does, it should be pretty easy to fit it somewhere in the rear. Or even relocate the engine bay, but have easier time fitting it there. That higher mounting position in the engine bay can have benefits.

Pretty sure the canister volume has a lot to do with the fuel tank volume and even fuel surface area, so I wouldn’t expect the smaller part to work in the long term.

 

[AcmeSys]

@AcmeSys - did you complete your install ?

Waiting for spring weather. I have all the parts and lines ready for install

also TUBE, FUEL MAIN, NO.3P art number: 7725360331 is on universal backorder everywhere. I'll try 60330 for the 2008 MY but I suspect this is just a plain jane chuck of hose?

 

[unclemat]

@lx200inARPretty sure the canister volume has a lot to do with the fuel tank volume and even fuel surface area, so I wouldn’t expect the smaller part to work in the long term.

Possibly, but perhaps the result will be just reduced effectiveness of the vapor absorption and some will get released to atmosphere more readily. Not an expert here. I prefer to keep emissions systems intact, but sometimes compromises need to be made.

 

[grinchy]

Waiting for spring weather. I have all the parts and lines ready for install

also TUBE, FUEL MAIN, NO.3P art number: 7725360331 is on universal backorder everywhere. I'll try 60330 for the 2008 MY but I suspect this is just a plain jane chuck of hose?

If my memory is correct, this was a piece of orange fuel rated hose. Not 100% sure . . .

 

[lx200inAR]

@lx200inAR From my experience working on these lines I’d suggest spending some time on them with an old toothbrush and some compressed air, before opening. Reduces chances of contamination and can even make the release clips operate more smoothly.




Pretty sure the canister volume has a lot to do with the fuel tank volume and even fuel surface area, so I wouldn’t expect the smaller part to work in the long term.

I've gotten a lot of practice taking things apart over the last couple months. I'm getting pretty good at it, or at the least, less afraid of it. (Knock on wood of course, I definitely just jinxed myself into breaking the next 3 connectors I touch).

 

[unclemat]

@grinchy Any idea on the sub-tank part # 77001-60B00?? In post #18 you are referencing it. Per some parts catalog it is "GCC SPEC".

And Partsouq does not indicate it interchanges with 77001-60831, one you got. On the other hand 77001-60831 is indicated as subtank for both diesels (VDJ200) and gas V6/V8 (GRJ200/URJ200).

 

[unclemat]

On a related note, the wire for the sub-tank float is unobtanium. I was able to find everything else. There is a newer part - 82163-60510. But it has a different plug. I think it fits a revised float - part # 8332069545 (instead of 8332069535).

 

[grinchy]

On a related note, the wire for the sub-tank float is unobtanium. I was able to find everything else. There is a newer part - 82163-60510. But it has a different plug. I think it fits a revised float - part # 8332069545 (instead of 8332069535).

If those are a pair I see no harm in proceeding, you’re going to cut the car side plug off the pigtail anyhow.

 

[grinchy]

@grinchy Any idea on the sub-tank part # 77001-60B00?? In post #18 you are referencing it. Per some parts catalog it is "GCC SPEC".

And Partsouq does not indicate it interchanges with 77001-60831, one you got. On the other hand 77001-60831 is indicated as subtank for both diesels (VDJ200) and gas V6/V8 (GRJ200/URJ200).

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Please use post #213 for the parts list.
There are various regional part numbers, particularly around the fuel and evap parts, for all the various regional EPA type laws. I can’t say what the differences might be , but they’re likely small and won’t matter for our installs, as long as you are keeping to the same region. For sure the ROW evap canister and evap flow is different than the US flow, but we can make do by manual connecting the evap piping to create a grand loop thru both tanks before heading out to the evap canister.
As far as sub tank part number, I suggest the one for the model year you’ve got. I have a 2009, and got parts/supersessions from that model year.

The diesel tank is the same, but the interface and hoses are different. You can look thru the diesel install in Russia that is linked. That install was helpful for all the misc parts, but it did use core diesel parts which had to be equated out to gas parts.