factory rack removal

[stayalert]

just removed factory rack. I think 2 or so of the 8 fasteners at the corners came out with removing the threaded insert....Caulked holes for time being....Anyway...Does anyone need any parts from the factory rack? I left the rails that go fore <> aft in place....I will dispose of the remaining parts if noone wants them or I can't think of something useful to do with them....
Rob M

 

[OZCAL]

Hi Rob

I just removed my rack and found minor rust under all boots. Then I removed the rib rail holders and found rust under two of eight as well. So I have removed all of them as well. Better take a look at your rib rail nutserts to make sure you don't have any rust there. I now have the rib rail guides up there which are pretty snugly glued to the top of the car, but I don't think they are a water trap.

I also removed the rear spoiler and found slightly rusty but viable nutserts. In fact, water pored out of the lower screw cavity when I removed it, and it had been days since the last rain.

BTW I found a washer at Home Depot called a "sealing washer". It is concave, about 5/8 of an inch across, and has a .5 mm neoprene gasket in the cavity. Slightly shorter than factory screws pulled the gasket snugly over the lip of the nutsert holder. Kind of a rosette washer with a rubber seal. About a buck for four. Unfortunately it is stainless steel but based on the price (cheap) not any kind of marine grade material, so the metal will eventually rust. I'm going to buy a handful and keep them in the glovebox.

David

 

[Beowulf]

David,

I used those same sealing washers and I believe you will find they are galvanized and not stainless. I put a high quality automotive silicone seal inside each nutsert and between the neoprene and the roof. I used SS button head screws to secure.

You either want to use A LOT SHORTER than factory screws or don't open your sunroof until you check clearances. The screws need to be approx 1/2" long.

Have you considered painting yours or are you leaving them unpainted?

-B-

 

[OZCAL]

David,

I used those same sealing washers and I believe you will find they are galvanized and not stainless. I put a high quality automotive silicone seal inside each nutsert and between the neoprene and the roof. I used SS button head screws to secure.

You either want to use A LOT SHORTER than factory screws or don't open your sunroof until you check clearances. The screws need to be approx 1/2" long.

Have you considered painting yours or are you leaving them unpainted?

-B-

You are correct - I just checked the little plastic bag and the washers are steel/galvanized. ("Sealing Washer Bonded #12, by Crown Bolt, Inc. out of Cerritos, California). I did use a small amount of marine grade silicone under the washer, just enough to fill any gaps that aren't sealed by the tension of the screw itself. I also lubricated the nutsert and screw threads with a few drops of Boeshields as a continued attack on any rust development.

I used slightly shorter screws throughout - "Machine Screw Pan - Slotted, 5mm - 8 x 12mm" just over 1/2 inch.

I derusted and ground the rusted nutsert holes under the roof rack. Then I taped off a rectangle around the holes (about the size of a playing card), prepped the surface, metal taped the holes themselves, and laid down a layer of do-it-yourself bed liner. Looks like I put non-slip bathtup stickers up there! This is a stopgap; I may have it all scraped off and repainted later, but honestly if I find a smoother bedliner material that doesn't look like black cottage cheese, I might just leave it at that.

David

 

[e9999]

just count your blessings that you were able to remove the screws at all!

 

[OZCAL]

just count your blessings that you were able to remove the screws at all!

!

Actually, I did lose a few to the inside of the headliner when I was Dremeling. Eventually, road vibration will help them work their way down through the columns and they will harmlessly fall out some drain hole, won't they?

David

 

[e9999]

!

Actually, I did lose a few to the inside of the headliner when I was Dremeling. Eventually, road vibration will help them work their way down through the columns and they will harmlessly fall out some drain hole, won't they?

David

yikes!
the front ones might end up in the drains, if they don't get stuck in the sunroof rails or something. Then might contribue to drain plugging or bounce around in the rocker panels...?

Off with the headliner!!!

 

[OZCAL]

No, it was just two back ones - I managed to get the front ones out! I suspect that they will stay put (as long as I don't brake too hard!!)

 

[stayalert]

more than 1/2 of my nutserts came right out with the screws. since the nutserts were turning with the screws I carefully placed a scrap of carpet under the end of my prybar when I levered the rack corners from the roof.....Not for the faint of heart. I removeded my roof rack in my driveway as opposed to having it removed for me in the field during use. Crappy cheap chincy disposable design in my opinion. Having said that I can't sat I've seen a factory rack that impresses me. I'm currently using quick and easy's and or thule on my vehicles. I am seriously considering selling my VW TDI because it doesn't have gutters.....I'm often roof topping big pelican cases and or a boat (canoe/guideboat) or two.....

So...BAck to my original question.....Does anybody want any of the parts that I have and no longer need?

Rob M

 

[sea2skydad]

Try ebay. If someone buys it then I'll try mine.

 

[stayalert]

currently too busy/lazy......perhaps I will make a "useless stuff from my garage" package for ebay.....

factrory roof rack
push bar
40 jump seats


I could even throw in some used motor oil.....









(kidding about the 40 jump seats )

 

[T Y L E R]

How does one 'de-rust' under the area the roof rack attaches ? I'm going to shop for all the parts this block off so I can get back in the condo . Looks though like we're getting a foot of snow in the next 36 hrs ...

I should have done the bolts and washer thang at Posers while I had the chance .. in a nice heated garage .

TY

 

[OZCAL]

How does one 'de-rust' under the area the roof rack attaches ? I

TY

I taped off the rusty area and used a Dremel grinder bit and patiently ground until the rust was gone. Not able to get to anything that may be on the underside of the roof, of course, but then I treated the entire area with Starbrite Rust Eater and Converter. Picked it up at WestMarine, a yacht supply store. Use a Q-tip - don't spray. Overspray will eat through any good paint it hits. If you bend the Q-tip right, you can apply it to the underside of the roof through any removed nutsert holes. The Starbrite converts the rust into steel, so the label says. Any residual/pitted rust definitely disappeared and left a shiny hard surface, to which the bedliner material easily adhered.

 

[T Y L E R]

Interesting .... I'll have to do some exploring of local shops this week and try and locate some of these products . I guess if I can at least take off the rack nearby my condo , I can drive into the underground quick , and work on it there .

Thanx ,

TY

 

[reffug]

stop it! please your scairing me.................

 

[e9999]

convert rust into steel?

that should amuse any chemists and metallurgists around here...!

 

[T Y L E R]

On the bottle it says if you're thinking of getting married to just cut off a cross section of copper pipe , and stick a small pc of coal atop it . Then spray liberally with their product and voila , you have an engagement band !!

TY

I hope my nuts aren't rusting off !

 

[e9999]

On the bottle it says if you're thinking of getting married to just cut off a cross section of copper pipe , and stick a small pc of coal atop it . Then spray liberally with their product and voila , you have an engagement band !!

TY

I hope my nuts aren't rusting off !

Ty, spraying that stuff on your nuts isn't gonna make them grow bigger, dude!


(nor hairier for that matter!)

 

[T Y L E R]

Ty, spraying that stuff on your nuts isn't gonna make them grow bigger, dude!


(nor hairier for that matter!)

Nahh , I only got coal in my sack

 

[RavenTai]

There are some products that convert iron oxide into iron phosphate, it is not steel but it stops the microscopic rust that is left after you sand. Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient.

I have a very old 1-gallon bottle of "Ospho" that was given to me 15 years ago,

I sanded primed and painted the rust area's (rattle can), but that does not seam to be popular around here, too old school? People seam to want to put line-x or some other covering on the rusted area's.