fabbing a hard top gutter (1 Viewer)

[denis]

you could bend the corners by cutting a number of triangular indents into the horizontal part of the gutter, then you bend it matching the corner, then you weld it all back together... if you're familiar with your cutting/welding tools, it should be a piece of cake... if you can't figure out the width of the indents you have to cut, just make one side of the cuts, bend (with each "leg overlaping the ones next door), then mark up the exact lines, then cut...

 

[fj40mayo]

Why not just cut out the flats of the corner pieces from a flat sheet and weld on the raised lip on the outside and inside? Your curves would be straight and you wouldn't have to spend all that time scratching your head while you made the jig. I just put on the ccot kit and think you could go that route and be ok. Just a thought.

 

[rusmannx]

i'm reading that 304 is good, 316 is better, 317 is best.
i think i can get 304 stainless pretty easily. what would a gutter made of 16gage 304 be worth?
i could make several of them while i'm at it.
after some initial testing today, i think i might not go with A36.

 

[brian]

you don't need to spend money on anything more than 304. the other two are for more corosive stuff like vinigar(sp) or cloreane(sp),just to name a few. as well as if you'd make them out of anything more than 304, you'd have to make the front pieces as well. i'm pretty sure you can't weld 316 or above to mild steel with out special wire(probaly only avaible in tig form if at all). 304 can be welded to mild steel with either 309 ss wire, regular mig wire(not gasless) 7018 stick rods....
and even if you would make it out of 304 you should make the front part as well, if you weld the 304 to mild steel the weld/weld area would rust(even on the ss side).

and that brinds other things to light if not handled "properly" the stainless could still "rust". it would not really rust, but if not handled with care ,carbon deposits on the ss would give the illiussion of rust. I.E. if the ss is bent on a break that handles carbon steel(a36, mild ,black. samething) the bend area will have heavy carbon deposits and as a result the carbon will rust. hit with ss with a hammer used on mild steel and the same thing could happen. wire brush, same thing. the list goes on....

the ss was too bling bling looking for me, but it would never rust out on you agian....

 

[rusmannx]

wow.
so your saying i should use the 304ss
i didn't know you could weld 304ss to mild with 7018. this makes me happy.

 

[brian]

it doesn't work quite as well in high stress area's or with heavier metal. 308 wire will work as well(it'll just end up as 309 in the puddle).
and 309 wire can be used to weld most, if not all 300 series ss to mild steel. that's it's sole job in life, and it's avaible in mig,tig and stick form.
i know ss, it's in me. no really...

 

[milesstarkey]

does anybody make new tops? fiberglass, or even better, aluminum?

 

[toddslater]

[glow=red,2,300]what would a gutter made of 16gage 304 be worth?[/glow]


Take the $150 that CCOT gets and add in the difference in cost of materials and that should be what it's worth.

 

[CruisinGA]

[quote author=milesstarkey link=board=1;threadid=6216;start=msg51917#msg51917 date=1066397476]
does anybody make new tops? fiberglass, or even better, aluminum?
[/quote]
I believe SOR sells new fiberglass. VERY pricey at $1200 IIRC and has to be truck shipped. Better off finding a decent used top. Aluminum would be wierd.