F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions

[orangefj45]

OK! I'm not advocating leaving TOB/fork disassembled, just not clicking the fork's metal clips into the round "stud" inside the BH. That way it's fully assembled but allowed to float down for a hot minute.

...I'll try to add some pictures.

I understand what you’re asking. But doing so only complicates the install.
Put the fork where it belongs. Fold up a shop rag ( or use an old suspension bushing ) and put that between the fork and BH where the fork sticks thru the BH to hold it in place.

 

[CruiserDM]

I then use a set of alinement dowels which I made by modifying a set off 8 x 1.25 metric bolts. I cut off the 12mm hex bolt head and then use a small cutoff wheel to cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver.
I use two dowels on each side of the block, typically on the third bolt hole from the ends.
Then I slide the gasket onto the dowels, followed by the oil pan. Making sure that the half moon shapes at the end of the gasket are seated into the main caps perfectly.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

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Also doing my oil pan now and this thread is so helpful.

Just to make sure I have the order of things correctly, my oil pan + Gasket + block sandwich should be

Engine Block
Permatex Copper + FIPG in corners
Cork Gasket
Permatex Copper + More FIPG in corners
Oil Pan

Are you spraying permatex copper directly on the block or onto the top side of the cork?

 

[orangefj45]

Also doing my oil pan now and this thread is so helpful.

Just to make sure I have the order of things correctly, my oil pan + Gasket + block sandwich should be

Engine Block
Permatex Copper + FIPG in corners
Cork Gasket
Permatex Copper + More FIPG in corners
Oil Pan

Are you spraying permatex copper directly on the block or onto the top side of the cork?

Correct.

We apply the copper spray to the gasket ( multiple coats since they’re super porous/absorbent ) as well as the block and pan. This sealant/adhesive sticks best to itself.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[IDKGiveItAShot]

Correct.

We apply the copper spray to the gasket ( multiple coats since they’re super porous/absorbent ) as well as the block and pan. This sealant/adhesive sticks best to itself.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

do you do anything when spraying block to limit overspray outside of block or in the bottom end? or if i just spray my way around the edge of the block it will be fine?

 

[orangefj45]

do you do anything when spraying block to limit overspray outside of block or in the bottom end? or if i just spray my way around the edge of the block it will be fine?

We use a piece of cardboard as a “shield” to limit overspray.

 

[CruiserDM]

If I’m doing the oil pan gasket without dropping the trans for the rear main, is it okay to temporarily remove those two angled brackets (top of this photo) to make the bottom of the block easier to access for reinstall?

 

[orangefj45]

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If I’m doing the oil pan gasket without dropping the trans for the rear main, is it okay to temporarily remove those two angled brackets (top of this photo) to make the bottom of the block easier to access for reinstall?

On a diesel that utilizes these reinforcement brackets, yes, they need to be removed.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[CruiserDM]

On a diesel that utilizes these reinforcement brackets, yes, they need to be removed.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

No wonder the pan was so damn hard to get off!

This is on my 3FE FJ80, just not enough threads on the 3FE so I have to sneak into the 60 series forums for help.

Thanks for the advice, I am saving your website for the next time I need parts.

 

[orangefj45]

No wonder the pan was so damn hard to get off!

This is on my 3FE FJ80, just not enough threads on the 3FE so I have to sneak into the 60 series forums for help.

Thanks for the advice, I am saving your website for the next time I need parts.

Happy to help!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[Highrlr]

Once you have confirmed that the seal inner lip is installed properly on the crank, push the seal about 90% of the way into the bore. The silicone will help it slide in place as well as the oil on the seal surface.
Then tighten your rear main cap bolts and torque them to 58 foot pounds as per FSM
Lastly, push the seal in until it is even with the block and rear main cap surface. Wipe off any excess silicone and inspect closeley.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

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I just noticed that you say to torque the rear main cap bolts to 58ftlb. The repair manual is have says 76-94 ft lbs. I took mine to 90ftlbs, do you think I am ok with this?

 

[wngrog]

I just noticed that you say to torque the rear main cap bolts to 58ftlb. The repair manual is have says 76-94 ft lbs. I took mine to 90ftlbs, do you think I am ok with this?

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Sure. I think he's playing it safe with a retorque on just those two with the lower number.