Extra .3" taller worth it?

[mcgaskins]

I am about have my 2.5" OME medium lift installed this week by Slee along with a TJM T3 and an Engo 10k winch. I have been rocking 18" Tundra steelies with 285/65 BFG ATs lately to try out the larger rim and the look. They measure 32.8" new but I'd say they're around 32.6" now. After a few months with the 18" rim setup, I think I'm going back down to a 16" factory rim for the extra sidewall and somewhat cushier ride. I feel the 18" rim drives better in corners and looks cooler, but it's noticeably more firm which I do not care for in the 100. I have a Ducati and a Honda race dirtbike for cornering and go-fast fun

When I bought the Tundra steelies a few months ago, I put my factory rims with 285/75/16 Duratracs in storage. I LOVE Duratracs in the snow and all the paces I've put them through, but I wish they were just a little taller (they measure 33.1"). I want to stick with a 16" rim, so for the Duratracs it looks like the 285s are the biggest I can go without going to a ~35" tire which I do not care to do.

I have found the Toyo AT2 comes in an "Xtreme" size in 295/75/16 that has thicker/stronger sidewalls, deeper tread, and more aggressive styling than the standard AT2 and measures in at 33.4". They look like they'd do everything pretty well like the Duratrac but would likely be a little stronger (weigh in 9 pounds heavier) and they have a 50 or 60k mile warranty. The Duratracs I have measure 33.1", so if I switched to the AT2 I would only be gaining about .3" of overall height.

Here's my question...is the hassle/expense of getting rid of the Duratracs and getting the AT2s worth it to gain .3" of tire height and picking a tire that has far less reputation than the established Duratrac? The majority of people I talk to here and on other boards swear by the Duratrac, but I sometimes like to venture out to try lesser known avenues. I realize that my ground clearance would only gain about .15" but as you all know every tiny bit counts!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I wouldn't care about the height, I'd be far more concerned about tire quality and tread.

 

[mcgaskins]

I wouldn't care about the height, I'd be far more concerned about tire quality and tread.

Agreed. I really like the tread and the reviews I've read have all been extremely positive. They're apparently known for holding up very well and lasting forever. Here's a couple shots of the tread and sidewall:

 

[re_guderian]

.3 / 2...

 

[mcgaskins]

.3 / 2...

I realize that my ground clearance would only gain about .15" but as you all know every tiny bit counts!

Right I realize it's a minimal clearance difference, but I would not think that .3" overall is too trivial since a .5" body lift is a noticeable (though not huge) difference. I have been in situations where a tenth of an inch would have meant not scraping the lower control arm.

 

[highonpottery]

i don't think you'll really notice 0.3" difference in tire diameter, you're only going to see 0.15" height difference - something that could be the difference of a few PSI in the tire or a few extra objects in the cab space. if you can afford it and really want the new tires, go for it. i'd say do it now while you still have some life in the DTs and can get some $ back if sold.

0.3" of body lift is different and can mean the difference of rubber to metal contact or not.

 

[mcgaskins]

i don't think you'll really notice 0.3" difference in tire diameter, you're only going to see 0.15" height difference - something that could be the difference of a few PSI in the tire or a few extra objects in the cab space. if you can afford it and really want the new tires, go for it. i'd say do it now while you still have some life in the DTs and can get some $ back if sold.

0.3" of body lift is different and can mean the difference of rubber to metal contact or not.

I do think if I sold my factory wheels with the DTs mounted it would likely pay almost entirely for the new set of tires which I have another set of factory wheels to mount them on. I agree that if there's a time to do it, I should do it sooner rather than later so I can recoup the most of my investment in the DTs.

 

[fireball]

1. Good on you for going with the medium kit. Slee talked me into putting a heavy kit on my truck, because I am running a rear bumper, and it is way too stiff for everyday driving for my liking.

2. 295/75 is also going to be .4" wider. I have the 295/75 BFG ATs on my truck. Had the PO not put them on, I'd have gone for 285/75s. The 295s touch the frame rail at full lock. Next set I buy (in 40-50k miles!) will be 285/75s.

 

[adrenalinefjz80]

^ You need to adjust your turnstops. My stock 31s rubbed on the drivers side frame with marks to prove it, so I adjusted it.

 

[mcgaskins]

1. Good on you for going with the medium kit. Slee talked me into putting a heavy kit on my truck, because I am running a rear bumper, and it is way too stiff for everyday driving for my liking.

2. 295/75 is also going to be .4" wider. I have the 295/75 BFG ATs on my truck. Had the PO not put them on, I'd have gone for 285/75s. The 295s touch the frame rail at full lock. Next set I buy (in 40-50k miles!) will be 285/75s.

Good to know - I actually was not wanting a wider tire than a 285 for that reason. I do have some 10mm spacers that I have never installed I was planning to throw on just in case they did rub which sounds like they definitely will. My dream tire would be a Duratrac that measures 34" by 11" wide on a 16" rim. It's too bad our selection for 17" rims is so limited because there are a few tires that fit those overal dimensions with a 17" rim!

 

[lrowe_csp]

I replaced 285 75 16 Duratrac's with the Toyo Open Country ATII in a 315 75 16 on my 80 series. Toyo is rounder than the Duratrac, easier to balance, and runs smoother, but they are much, much heavier, even when matched against the same size duratrac. I agree that the dream duratrac in a 34 by 11 on a 16 wheel would be the cat's meow. I would not pull my 285 duratrac's off for a .3" gain in height, and the duratrac is still better in the snow, IMHO. BTW, I kept the duratracs and mounted them on a set of 16" wheels for winter time on my 100 series. YMMV

 

[fireball]

^ You need to adjust your turnstops. My stock 31s rubbed on the drivers side frame with marks to prove it, so I adjusted it.

That means you loose some of your turning radius. Might not be a big deal for the OP who is out west, but for me running super tight trails on the east coast that is not desirable.

Good to know - I actually was not wanting a wider tire than a 285 for that reason. I do have some 10mm spacers that I have never installed I was planning to throw on just in case they did rub which sounds like they definitely will. My dream tire would be a Duratrac that measures 34" by 11" wide on a 16" rim. It's too bad our selection for 17" rims is so limited because there are a few tires that fit those overal dimensions with a 17" rim!

I'd avoid spacers at almost any cost!

I'm suprised the 255/85/16 isn't more popular among the 100 crowd. That would give you the added height/clearance you're looking for and be narrow enough to avoid rubbing issues. I am not sure what other options you have (if any) in that size besides the KM2s though

 

[mcgaskins]

I replaced 285 75 16 Duratrac's with the Toyo Open Country ATII in a 315 75 16 on my 80 series. Toyo is rounder than the Duratrac, easier to balance, and runs smoother, but they are much, much heavier, even when matched against the same size duratrac. I agree that the dream duratrac in a 34 by 11 on a 16 wheel would be the cat's meow. I would not pull my 285 duratrac's off for a .3" gain in height, and the duratrac is still better in the snow, IMHO. BTW, I kept the duratracs and mounted them on a set of 16" wheels for winter time on my 100 series. YMMV

Great reply thanks for sharing your experience. I wondered if the extra weight was noticeable and sounds like it definitely is. I haven't run my Duratracs since April, so I'll throw them back on to remember how much I liked them especially with ski season around the corner.

 

[2000UZJ]

When I went 35's, I honestly did not notice a huge difference in off road capability. I did however notice a huge power loss, rough shifts, and gas mileage went down, turning radius was worse, fender contact and having to extend the rear bump stops. I think the best tire size for the 100 is 33's. 35's look cool, they have there place in off-roading, but I don't think bigger is better on 100's...not with our front diffs.

 

[mcgaskins]

I'd avoid spacers at almost any cost!

I'm suprised the 255/85/16 isn't more popular among the 100 crowd. That would give you the added height/clearance you're looking for and be narrow enough to avoid rubbing issues. I am not sure what other options you have (if any) in that size besides the KM2s though

I tend to agree and that's the main reason I haven't them on yet after having them for over six months. I do like the tall and skinny (relatively speaking) tires but there's just not much choice out there, and I do not want to run a mud tire because of the compromises in the ski trip handling. On my old Jeep, I had a dedicated trail tire (Super Swamper TSL) and a decent street tire, but I don't see the point in a hard core tire on the 100 which is why the DT and Toyo are so appealing.

 

[mcgaskins]

When I went 35's, I honestly did not notice a huge difference in off road capability. I did however notice a huge power loss, rough shifts, and gas mileage went down, turning radius was worse, fender contact and having to extend the rear bump stops. I think the best tire size for the 100 is 33's. 35's look cool, they have there place in off-roading, but I don't think bigger is better on 100's...not with our front diffs.

Also great insight - I know that there is a huge jump in the number of factors affected by jumping up to a 35" tire which is why I want to keep it within a 33-33.5" tire since it seems the 100 doesn't have much of an issue with that size. I hate unnecessary unsprung weight and the braking and gas mileage is already less than desirable!

 

[2000UZJ]

I'd avoid spacers at almost any cost!

I have been saying this for the past 5 years, I added Shaggy's 10MM spacers and I love them. I retorque my lug nuts every 2 weeks as a precaution though. Pushing the wheels out 20MM made the stance on my 100 look so much better. It makes the 100 look so much wider from the rear. The front wheels now sit flush with the wheel wells. I do get a bit (well, quite a bit) fender/tire contact though. That may be because my fenders are beaten in from trees though