External Oil pump (1 Viewer)

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Feb 24, 2006
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Acton Vale
Just thinking of that.. Can I put a external oil pump on my BJ40. Just in case that I need it. Like the electrical water pump some people have to be sure that the mecanical water pump is not broke.

I look many treads... without any answer.

My pressure look good. 5 psi idle, 28 psi at 2500. Little low for sure, but in spec. But if on a road trip, the pressure drop to mutch.. An external pump with a release valve can be great I think. I already have an hole in my oil pan for a guage. A small pump who take oil there.. and push it somewere else (Don'T know were I can put it back on the engine to had pressure everywere and not just in a specifique place in the engine)
 
thought in your B engine the rpm at 3k rpm must be over 36 PSI ..

Not sure about that... after a will, the different in pressure between 2000-3000 rpm isn't that big. maybe 26psi at 2200 and 30 at 3000.

with new crankshaft bearing and rebuild oil pump.
 
In my 2H FSM said it should be at least 4.3 PSI at dile @ normal operative temp and from 36 to 64 PSI @ 3000k rpm ..

last test

I have 5 psi at idle (at stop) when running long trip (200km at 2500rpm) 60miles/hour. 26-30 psi at 2500rpm --- no différence when i'm at 3000rpm

10psi idle when i'm running in city or at 40miles/hour (at stop). and 35psi when I run at 1800rpm --- 40-45 psi when i'm at 3000rpm

So long trip or city make a big difference. All that is when water temps is 90 degres.

I can see my oil temp, I don't have a good sending unit so it's not the real but it's tell all what I need to know. At start (cold) 25 degree outside... temp 40degree (you see that the sending unit isn't good) after that at 40milles/hour temp is 90-100 degres.. so if I have a linear sending unit... 100-40.. oil temps at slow drinving is 60 degrees. At high speed... for a landcruiser... temps is 120 degres.. (have an external cooler for oil that open a 80 degres) so that seem to be how the oil temps is... 120-40 ... 80 degrees.Never go more then that. But a 80 degree, oil pressure doesn't change from 2000 to 3000 rpm.. or change juste a little bit. Maybe I will put a little bigger release valve.. to see if some pressure in'st lost there.
 
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Your pressure is a bit low. In fact, your pressure is EXACTLY like mine was before I changed a blown cam bearing. 5 psi idle, 30psi above 2000, no change from 2000-3000, all exactly like mine.

Changing main bearings did nothing. After changing the cam bearing, after a long hwy trip I have 10psi at idle, 30psi at 2000, 40psi at 3000... pump probably is still a little tired, but its good enough.

Also, I've said it many times and I'll say it again: the FSM spec says to take the measurement with the engine "at operating temp", but there is a large difference in oil pressure when you just idle it up to operating temp, vs. after a long highway run (even at the same water temps). I have no idea which condition Toyota is actually worried about, but I suspect they would not have specified a high speed highway run as a requirement for a repeatable test... so I wouldn't tell someone to rebuild their engine just because they can't hit 36 psi after a long highway run.

Anyway, my point is... your engine is behaving normally for an engine with slightly low oil pressure. You might check your mains and cam bearings, but the temperature swings don't seem like a problem.
 
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main and cam bearins are new 3000$ maybe more to rebuild my B engine. But it's let me some idea that my pressure is lost somewere. Will look for the release valve. Filter is new but when I will change my oil, I will put some cleaner to remove some dry oil that maybe clog something somewere... I'll think about it. Today it's 16 degree outside this morning. 30psi at 2300 rpm and 43 psi at 3000 rpm but I never run faster then 95km/h (to mutch wind) and oil was at 60 degree all the run. When it's 30 degree outside.. my oil is really hotter ther that.

But I want to know if I can put an external pump and how can you achive that ?
 
I find what I seek for.. 399$ for an external pump. Maybe try one when I will have some money. Pump it from my oil pan were my oil temp sensor is and return it to my return line of my oil cooler.

Today 36 degree outside and at 2700rpm oil pressure was at 25psi and oil temps over 90 degree C.
 
Patch a problem is nutz, 299.00 is wasteful towards repair.
that is low oil pressure.
I have a 3b, if that was mine , repair before i became a victim .

VT
 
Patch a problem is nutz, 299.00 is wasteful towards repair.
that is low oil pressure.
I have a 3b, if that was mine , repair before i became a victim .

VT

Repairing what ? New beb's, cam bearing. New oil pump gear + rebuild pump cover from a machine shop. All in spec. More than 3000$ on the motor just to try repairing my oil pressure probleme. and some other little things.

At low rpm(1500rpm), oil temp is low, water temps is 90degree C.. so oil pressure is good enough. At high rpm (2500rpm) water temps si 90 degree C.. but the oil temp is 80 degree C and the oil pressure drop has hell.

Oil pressure go up really slow when accelerating and drop fast when I put it in neutral.

I don't really know what to do more then adding a new external pump.
 
I agree with amaurer. Changing main bearings did nothing. After changing the cam bearing, after a long hwy trip I have 10psi at idle, 30psi at 2000, 40psi at 3000... pump probably is still a little tired, but its good enough. Thanks amaurer for the good explaination.
 
Yep it's right .. but mine are new.. so it's not the cam or main bearing.. and the oil pump is rebuild to be in spec.

The last think to know is how mutch oil the pump need to pump and try to see if that is in spec.

If the motor need 10 gallon by minutes and my pump give less then that.. it's my pump but if it's my motor that take 15 gallon by minutes to have s certain among of pressure it's my bearing somewere. I will figure how to know that spec. ... I will look at the oil line in my manuel , see were I can have some place where worn bearing, or something...

For now... new cam bearing, main bearing, piston bearing, rebuild oil pump, rebuild motor,

Can it's be the valve lifter that are to worn ? That the only pieces of my motor that I don't change.
 
Can it's be the valve lifter that are to worn ? That the only pieces of my motor that I don't change.

Interesting. I kinda doubt it, but who knows, take a look.

What weight and type of oil are you running? 20W-50 was good for 5 extra psi for me.
 
What weight and type of oil are you running? 20W-50 was good for 5 extra psi for me.

Diesel CF 20W-50 .. ? which one . ?
 
Diesel CF 20W-50 .. ? which one . ?

Not CF, CD. Valvoline VR-1, CD rating hidden in the fine print on the back of the bottle. I ran it for 10,000 miles until I fixed my cam bearing.

For $5/qt I expect my oil to reach back and give me a handjob every 100 miles; the CD rating is the easy part.
 
I always run Rotella 15w-40 (Father always tell me that it's the best one) but it's the firts time in 10 years that I run this truck on road. My father have it for removing snow in winter... so it's never see more then -10 degree C before this summer. Start 10 time a year for 10 years with the same oil before I rebuild it.

I will look a it tomorow... see all place that the oil can go and can have a drop of pressure.
 
I'm running semi sinth Castrol and for a 7 bucks a quart I was expeting better results .. I would give a shot to the full synth Mobil 1 5W-50 next time . .
 
I'm running semi sinth Castrol and for a 7 bucks a quart I was expeting better results .. I would give a shot to the full synth Mobil 1 5W-50 next time . .

5W-50??? :eek: Wow, I didn't know you could get oil with a spread that large! Is there even room for oil in there, or is it just a liter of viscosity modifying additives!??! :D
 
Don't worry though, you feel good buying the "best". I have recently watched Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic drop through my motorcycle like grass through a goose. I seriously have to question what is in it. Using 15W40 mineral seems to see less consumption. It is a mystery to me.
 

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