Extended Travel Issues

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Phil,

On those 7100 Bilsteins, can you tell us what valving you went with and if you would re-valve firmer or softer the next time?
 
Darwood said:
Phil,

On those 7100 Bilsteins, can you tell us what valving you went with and if you would re-valve firmer or softer the next time?
Click to expand...

Darwood,

I actually ended up going to the 7100's as the 5150's bushings didnt allow for the right amount of deflection and bilstien warrantied them and gave me a discount on the 7100's. I didnt change the valving but am running right around 205 psi of nitrogen and they are great......
 
On that pictures in post #16, is that what is called a heim joint that attaches the shock to the mount?
 
Sickboy,


What valving are you using with 205 psi?
 
Sickboy,

So you got the 7100's valved to 255/70 from Bilstein? The closest preset valving I see for the 7100 is 275/78. Is the 255/70 firm enough? I guess you really aren't jumping the thing which would tell you if they were or not.

I'm interested in a valving that would allow whoops somewhat, but would also be ok in crawling.
 
I dont know what the valving is set at...... I might have it on my initial shipping receipt..... but i use to go and launch my rig with my OME shocks and they held up OK... these definitly feel good.... This rig has been fully airborne with this set up and it takes it very well.....

just so you know i never thought i would be launching it but we have a road on the way to a trail that has some big whoops as well as some berms and sure enough i started hitting them and it was a lot of fun..... i still drive this thing like i am 16 sooooo...
 
Thanks Sickboy,

Yeah if you can find any indication of the valving numbers on the invoice that would be great. :cheers:

Right now I'm finding the OME shocks to be a little soft, though they do seem to be ok with jumping a bit. It's the on road handling I'd like to improve. They seem to allow too much body sway. Firmer shocks would be one way to help with this, but so would different springs and or stiffer sway bars. Once I get my hands on some of Slee's 4 inch springs (when they come out) I'll see if I still need new dampeners.

I miss the Bilsteins and Sway-A-Ways I had on my Tacoma. :doh:
 
Darwood said:
Phil,

On those 7100 Bilsteins, can you tell us what valving you went with and if you would re-valve firmer or softer the next time?
Click to expand...

Darwood - The valving was set up by the PO and Lee Finkey of Raceshock. It was changed several times in order to get it right mostly on the rebound side from what I remember. Ali asked the same question a while back and I have not been able to find the paper work on the valving set-up. When setting up shock valving normally no 2 vehicles are the same. The differences in gross weight, unsprung weight, spring rate, and ride height all play into the setup. The only thing I would and do is change is the nitrogen level when I'm weighted.


NW-Sickboy - If your goal is to pre-run your 80 (whoops and jumping) you probably needed to go with bypass shocks or multiple shocks and add hydraulic bump stops. If you set-up for smooth whoops its going to bottom out when you get air so you might want to add hydraulic bump stops to suck up the last 4 inches. Also with the weight of an 80 and a single 7100 with reservoir you will only be able to spend a short time in the whoops before your shocks go away (overheat).

HTH
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Darwood - The valving was set up by the PO and Lee Finkey of Raceshock. It was changed several times in order to get it right mostly on the rebound side from what I remember. Ali asked the same question a while back and I have not been able to find the paper work on the valving set-up. When setting up shock valving normally no 2 vehicles are the same. The differences in gross weight, unsprung weight, spring rate, and ride height all play into the setup. The only thing I would and do is change is the nitrogen level when I'm weighted.


NW-Sickboy - If your goal is to pre-run your 80 (whoops and jumping) you probably needed to go with bypass shocks or multiple shocks and add hydraulic bump stops. If you set-up for smooth whoops its going to bottom out when you get air so you might want to add hydraulic bump stops to suck up the last 4 inches. Also with the weight of an 80 and a single 7100 with reservoir you will only be able to spend a short time in the whoops before your shocks go away (overheat).

HTH
Click to expand...


hahhaha no thats definetly not my goal by any means.... its just one road on the way to one trail and it gets hucked occasionally.... its trail rig.. the biggest reason i went to the 7100's was for the hiems as they let the shock move more freely..... thats really it cause i like the way the 5150's rode ......

these whoops werent real smooth they were more ramps to trannies and just happened to be fun....
 
NW-sickboy said:
hahhaha no thats definetly not my goal by any means.... its just one road on the way to one trail and it gets hucked occasionally.... its trail rig.. the biggest reason i went to the 7100's was for the hiems as they let the shock move more freely..... thats really it cause i like the way the 5150's rode ......

these whoops werent real smooth they were more ramps to trannies and just happened to be fun....
Click to expand...

Damn! I was looking foward to the videos of you airing the 80 :flipoff2:

You can valve your 7100's just like your 5150. Do you have the 7100 FSM?
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Damn! I was looking foward to the videos of you airing the 80 :flipoff2:

You can valve your 7100's just like your 5150. Do you have the 7100 FSM?
Click to expand...

How hard/expensive is it to revalve the 7100's?
 
Phil,

Once again, what is the pressure and valving on your shocks? Trying to figure out what works best for our vehicles. Thanks.
 
alia176 said:
Phil,

Once again, what is the pressure and valving on your shocks? Trying to figure out what works best for our vehicles. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Phil said this earlier:

Darwood - The valving was set up by the PO and Lee Finkey of Raceshock. It was changed several times in order to get it right mostly on the rebound side from what I remember. Ali asked the same question a while back and I have not been able to find the paper work on the valving set-up. When setting up shock valving normally no 2 vehicles are the same. The differences in gross weight, unsprung weight, spring rate, and ride height all play into the setup. The only thing I would and do is change is the nitrogen level when I'm weighted.
Click to expand...

I really wish he knew as well, but what ya gonna do... hmm maybe have him take the shocks apart :D
 
Ahh, I see. No problemo.

Thanks for the heads up. So, when one orders a set of the 7100s, what valving should be specified? I understand that Nitrogen gas can be charged/discharged based on ride preference/height/weight/etc.. Perhaps this doesn't really matter because you can use Nitrogen to control both aspects of the shock.
 
alia176 said:
Ahh, I see. No problemo.

Thanks for the heads up. So, when one orders a set of the 7100s, what valving should be specified? I understand that Nitrogen gas can be charged/discharged based on ride preference/height/weight/etc.. Perhaps this doesn't really matter because you can use Nitrogen to control both aspects of the shock.
Click to expand...

I've been reading about nitrogen pressure and most folks say you shouldn't use that to adjust the shocks dampening. The pressure is just there to get rid of aeration and to equilibrate the oil and the gas pressures.

However from my (limited) experience adjusting the nitrogen pressure is good for fine tuning but, it really won't compensate for revalving. You can gain a little bit of firmness from nitrogen, but you also run the risk of blowing the seal on the reservoir.

To figure out a good valving on the 7100's it looks like we are on our own. :doh:

Then there is my crazy need to mount 7100's at the stock mounting points using http://www.jksmfg.com/shock_adapter.htm

The only thing I can't figure out is how to mount to the rear axle. The spherical bearings only handle 1/2 mountings and I think we have 3/4 eye mountings at the axle. Though if you could get the 7100's without a spherical bushing on the end you could use http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/sk_bsp1.html (I think the 9.8109 is the one we need). I believe this is what I used on my Tacoma when I put 5125's on the rear.

And then there is the length...
 
Thanks for the info. Not that I'm going to run out and buy me a set of these mofo shocks but I just like to be informed.

The spherical ball concerns me due to their longevity on a dailiy driver (snow/slush/crap). But coming up with a stud to eye conversion is very simple. I should look for a set of used 7100s if possible. These things are very expensive :eek:

Ali
 
Darwood said:
I've been reading about nitrogen pressure and most folks say you shouldn't use that to adjust the shocks dampening. The pressure is just there to get rid of aeration and to equilibrate the oil and the gas pressures.

However from my (limited) experience adjusting the nitrogen pressure is good for fine tuning but, it really won't compensate for revalving. You can gain a little bit of firmness from nitrogen, but you also run the risk of blowing the seal on the reservoir..
Click to expand...


Darwood you are correct with the above statement. Nitrogen max. pressure is 225 PSI.


Darwood said:
The only thing I can't figure out is how to mount to the rear axle. .
Click to expand...

Darwood at the start of this thread there are pictures of how my rear mount were done if that helps.
 
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