Extended front anti-sway bar links

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Several posts discuss the advantages of extended anti-sway bar links on a lifted truck, and Man-A-Fre offers extended rear links for 80-series trucks that will also work on Hundies. @RobRed has posted threads on his custom fabricated extended front links, but other than that, the options for extended front links are scarce.
I decided to give it go, and built a set of front links that are a little over one inch longer than the factory links.

I will follow up with a detailed parts list later, but I basically built these around a piece of B7 grade 3/8" threaded rod. The lower mount is a QA1 spherical rod end, and the top mount is a set of Energy Suspension bushings. Assorted grade 8 nuts and some blue Loctite finish out the link.

I've just installed these so I'll have to follow up with driving impressions later. You can see in the photos that I'm running with 3/8" "quick" disconnect pins on the lower mount rather than the factory bolt, but I don't see why one couldn't run with the factory bolt on theses links.

The parts cost me a bit over $90, but that includes the minimum 3' threaded rod that I could source, and set of four bushings. If you utilized the rest of the rod to build more links it would come out to $55 per set. Alternatively, lower grade rod (and nuts) could be used. For reference, grade B7 rod is equivalent to something stronger than a grade 5 bolt but weaker than grade 8.

:beer:

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Nicely done!

Just a thought, but as a simplification and cost savings measure - perhaps in place of the threaded rod, you could use a 3/8 x 4" bolt (or however long is needed?)
 
Nicely done!

Just a thought, but as a simplification and cost savings measure - perhaps in place of the threaded rod, you could use a 3/8 x 4" bolt (or however long is needed?)

Definitely could use a bolt. It would be more complicated to attach, though. Setting the length and tightening the upper bushing would have to come through jam nuts threaded on the bolt, rather than the head of the bolt itself.
 
Awesome job! All that is missing from your post is part numbers, prices, and links. =)
 
Parts, prices, and links:

3/8"-24 x 3 ft ASTM A193 Gr B7 Plain Threaded Rod
Fastenal part 47670
$23.44
QTY 1

3/8"-24 Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Finish NE Steel Nylon Insert Lock Nut
Fastenal part 37082
$0.45
QTY 2

3/8"-24 Yellow Zinc Finish Grade 8 Finished Hex Nut
Fastenal part 36456
$0.21
QTY 2

3/8"-24 SAE J995 Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Finish Steel Jam Nut
Fastenal part 0169684
$0.48
QTY 4 (you could probably skip these)

PCYF-T Series High Misalignment, PTFE Lined, Chromoly Steel Rod End
QA1 Part PCYFR6T
$10.12
QTY 2

Sway Bar End Link Grommets and Washers - 98105
Energy Suspension Part 98105
$9.21
QTY 1

This gets you 3 feet of threaded rod and enough bushings for four links. You can cut the rod to whatever length you like, and then use the nuts to adjust the functional length, if you like.
 
Caveat:
I'm assuming the factory lower bolt will fit the 3/8" ID rod end, but I haven't actually confirmed this. You may get a little slop between the metric bolt and the 3/8" eye. I've drilled out the female threads in the lower mount to 3/8" and used a 3/8" pin, so the fit is good.
 
Much obliged, Hayes. I've been cruising sans front links for the past three years after lift install and needed to address this. Time for me to get it done!
 
FYI McMaster has metric/10mm diameter quick release pins. One version: McMaster-Carr
 
Q: How big of a PITA, or not, is it to get the 2nd side/link reconnected?

And I assume you've got a strap to hold the disconnected ASW & links up out of the way?
 
Assuming a flat and unloaded bar, disconnecting is relatively easy--especially since I added the big pull rings to the pins. It's basically pull and go.
Reconnecting is another story. Even with the extended links, the lower holes do not line up with the upper bushings relaxed, and you have to pull the link sideways to line up the holes and insert the pin. If anything the new bushings make this more difficult--the old ones had a bit of memory that got things lined up closer. Usually takes some pushing, pulling, cursing, and swearing, but it all goes back together. I usually come up messy from lying in the dirt and handling greasy parts. It's still a less than ideal system to reconnect (disconnect is easy), but it does work.

I'm still retaining the disconnected bar with a poly strap like in my original post on the topic. My first strap did eventually wear out and was replaced. It can be seen in my recent Icon install post.


Q: How big of a PITA, or not, is it to get the 2nd side/link reconnected?

And I assume you've got a strap to hold the disconnected ASW & links up out of the way?
 
Driving impressions, on-road only.
Nothing drastic, but I actually think the overall effect is a less harsh response to small bumps. Maybe this is due to the end of the bar being more normal to the control arm arc (more horizontal, basically) at static load. Dunno.
No off road impressions yet.
 
Could you follow up on this? How have the links aged? What is it like offroad? Would you feel like someone could make a 2 - 2.25 inch longer link this way? And I am curious if the qa1 rod ends began to make noise or not. Has anyone else attempted this build?
 
Support the guys that support our hobbies. They have done all the R&D for us, so we can spend that time using and enjoying our rigs.

Now for Jason to get them restocked.

I am making a list of things to buy from @TRAIL TAILOR. I think he will be back in Feb. It's just that patience is a virtue I struggle with :barefoot:
 

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