Extended Brake Lines with OME 2.5" Lift?

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Golden, CO
I'm eventually going to do a 2.5" OME lift, but I'm refreshing my brakes now and want to extend my frame to axle lines if I have to. However, I've seen conflicting reports on whether extended lines are even necessary with the 2.5" OME lift. Anybody know the answer?
 
With the standard lift shocks shocks, likely not necessary, if you have "L" shocks, likely is. The only way to know for sure is to fully flex and check, on your rig.
 
Thanks. I'll probably just do extended lines now then. Probably will go the OEM route.
 
When I installed my OME 2.5" lift, back in '06... as long as I was refreshing my brakes as well, I got these: http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/StainlessSteelBraidedDOTBrakeLines.htm
and I'm glad I did.:meh:
I did not want to be stretching and flexing brittle old original rubber brake lines in new areas that had not been flexed, previous to changing the axle to chassis distance. I've had no issues, and the brakes felt less spongy, immediately after installing the braided SS lines.:cool:
The braided jacket resists injury due to rocks flung from the tires, underbrush, etc. Here's what they look like today:

SS brakelines.webp


SS brake lines.webp
 
If you go with OEM shocks you dont need to extend lines. I just measured the rears the other day. If you go with longer shocks you might need to extend them but you also might need to lower the bump stops or risk bottoming out the shocks.

I have OEM shocks and the OEM brake lines are not stretched. The shocks stop extending or opening long before the lines would become stretched.
 
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Thanks for the info. Slee is right near me so I may use their extended kit. I tend to prefer the OEM lines because of the way the fittings lock in place. Not totally sold that stainless is tougher or better.
 
It would be nice to get longer OEM lines. Could you somehow put 2 lines together???

You just need to know what you want:
If you want to get more up wheel travel, go with OEM length shocks and OEM lines.
If you want more down wheel travel, get longer shocks, bump stop shims and longer brake lines.


<<<I measured the length of the rear shock at rest 20" and the gap between the bump stop and axle housing 6" and came up with 14".

OEM Toyota rear shock is about 13 3/4" fully compressed, 22 1/2" fully uncompressed.

If my math is correct, with these measurements I probably am either bottoming out or very close to bottoming out the rear shocks. Not sure how much give the bump stops give.>>>
 
If I could do my lines again I'd go with the extended OEM lines that Beno or CDan put together. Iirc some of the lines are from a Tundra, do a search for the part numbers. The Slee lines (and I'd imagine other stainless lines too) fray over time especially the front caliper lines.

This is after approximately 22000 miles on the slee stainless front caliper. The OEM lines last 10 times that many miles or years. Stainless lines are overpriced shiz and hype if you ask me.

ForumRunner_20130630_183921.webp



ForumRunner_20130630_183934.webp

ForumRunner_20130630_183921.webp


ForumRunner_20130630_183934.webp
 
I agree with the above poster. I have Slee lines and the front have had the clear jacket come off. The rear is fine though...

I am sure any other stainless line would have done the same also.
 
I know for a fact that OEM lines will last for hundreds of thousands of miles, so I don't see much need to go a different direction. A firmer pedal would be nice, but peace of mind is worth more to me.
 
If I could do my lines again I'd go with the extended OEM lines that Beno or CDan put together. Iirc some of the lines are from a Tundra, do a search for the part numbers. The Slee lines (and I'd imagine other stainless lines too) fray over time especially the front caliper lines.

This is after approximately 22000 miles on the slee stainless front caliper. The OEM lines last 10 times that many miles or years. Stainless lines are overpriced shiz and hype if you ask me.

I agree with the above poster. I have Slee lines and the front have had the clear jacket come off. The rear is fine though...

I am sure any other stainless line would have done the same also.

If you look closely at my pics not only is the clear jacket gone, but the stainless sleeve is frayed and presumably cutting into the inner rubber line. Bottom line is that the stainless lines are overpriced s***ty lines and not made with long term reliability in mind.

As far as the firmer pedal comments, I'd be surprised if the OEM are any less firm than the stainless.

Don't fool around with stainless lines, the OEM lines have a proven and reliable history. Get the extended OEM lines if you need longer lines.
 
That's my plan. I'd like to find some different OEM lines that only extend about 2" all around since I'm not doing a huge lift. I'll post it up if I find some.
 
If I could do my lines again I'd go with the extended OEM lines

I did do mine again and in this exact fashion.


That's my plan. I'd like to find some different OEM lines that only extend about 2" all around since I'm not doing a huge lift. I'll post it up if I find some.

Too much thought into it.

Lift height doesn't equate to an exact line extension dimension. The lines CDan can provide would have a bit more curl on a 2.5" lift then they would on a 4" lift.

You won't lose your fair entry by using them.
 
I enjoy putting too much thought into things that don't require it. Thanks for the info from everyone, this helps alot.
 
I enjoy putting too much thought into things that don't require it.

You're in the very presence of the King of over thinking, over analyzing, over contemplating, and over doing, young grasshopper, because I enjoy it, too.

On that note, I will only make this suggestions, because I, too, do not listen to conventional wisdom.

There's bigger fish fry, but if you're bent (which you probably are) on getting lines 2" longer than OEM, call, email, text, smoke signal CDan as he may save you a lot of time.
 
Well, Akella just came out with an extended OEM kit today. Seems like a sign from the Toyota gods. I'll just stick with the tried and true solution. I did however compile a list of Toyota brake lines and lengths using Dorman's aftermarket parts site. It lists length and fitting size as well as part numbers. The first section is the OEM frame to axle lines. The second section is various lines from Tundras, T100's, and 4 Runners of similar vintages. Red indicates Female-Male fittings. Green indicates Female-Female fittings. If anyone wants to make a different custom kit this could be a starting point:

Brake Lines.webp
 
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