Expo 101CDN Build (1 Viewer)

[Admartin]

Started with a super clean all original m101cdn and built it up to mimic an AT chaser. Took the better part of a year but its been super fun and a great learning experience. The purpose of the build was to take the trailer and convert it into a self sufficient base camp for our expedition across the US.

 

[greentruck]

That's a good start.

I suspect that with a post count of 2, you've run into the the noobie pic posting limit. Maybe tell us a little more in some brief comments, as once you're over 10 posts you'll be able to post away with pics.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

X2 id like to hear more

 

[Admartin]

thanks guys, i've been a member over on expo portal for a few years and just getting started here.

the build was awesome, i think you'll like it. thinking of moving from our jeep m101 setup to a landcruiser and teardrop. with the addition of our dogs (2 bull terriers, more space is needed than the LJ can provide.

 

[Admartin]

Start of my lid build. We went with a base 1" sq. aluminum stock and then plan on skinning it with an aluminum skin. We mirrored the tub lines to create a symmetrical lid. Gives great clearance and looks awesome.

Oh and going with aluminum should make the top under 100 lbs

 

[Admartin]

Corner detail. Beveled edges for better penetration

 

[Admartin]

the top will be completely tig welded. We double stacked the hinge side for additional support and added support legs from the ribs down to the square base as well as between the ribs.

The Top is being built to carry a 1,000 lb load as it will be the base for my roof top tent. The tent mounting rails will be placed on top of the 1" sq. stock that runs between the 4 ribs making it a stout and strong location.

 

[ntsqd]

Where I ran into trouble with my TrailBlazer's aluminum box-top frame was at the corners. It was a single 1x1 perimeter and the crack started at the inside of the two hinge tube corners. It progressed around each joint until the hinge tube was "full-floating." The trailer came to me broken and when it first came to me it was a long term loan with the condition being that I fix it. I first ground-out and re-welded the corner joints and then welded in some short sections of 1x3 rect. tube double mitered to fit into those two corners at a 45° That spread the torsional stress, that is apparently present in the hinge tube when open, along a much larger/longer weld bead.

 

[Admartin]

yeah the corner's can become issues if not properly put together. the welding has alot to do with it as does having some additional support for when the lid is open. I found that by going with 3 hinges and doubling up on the tube on the hinge side has really helped. Also beveling all joints before welding helped with penetration.

getting its skin

 

[titanpat57]

beautiful workmanship....

 

[Admartin]

Thanks a bunch. Most of the credit needs to go to David the fabricator. His metal skills are amazing

Onward with the build. We used thule tracks flush mounted to the top for our tent base. These were installed where the underneath 1" sq. tube support runs. SS hinges were used along with SS 2 piece latches that are lockable.

 

[Admartin]

when we built the top we extended the skin down 1/8 of an inch to create a lip for better sealing against dust and rain. We also used automotive bulb seal to complete the waterproofing of the trailer.

Stainless Steel grab handle (can you guess what the original use is)?

Ahh loving the tig welds.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Turning out real nice. The handle looks like it came out of a handicap shower stall.

 

[Admartin]

right on the money ron, works great as a grab handle.

The top was the most design intensive part of the build. Being that there are many different stresses and load necessities (open, closed, RTT, Bajarack, offroad travel, sleeping, ect.) it took the better part of 3 mths to design and build and test and modify and then rebuild. It came out great though and seals 100% against water and dust.

For the expo part of the build I knew I wanted a water tank, gas cans, and battery setup so I decided to mimic the AT chaser. We wanted to make everything bolt on bolt off so you could repair/replace single items without the need to cut and reweld. For strength we went with 2x3 box steel and 1/8" steel for the skid plate. We set up the lines by using an AT nose plate and worked our way back to the tub.

The new front section bolts into the original M101CDN tub mounts and we added 3 additional bolts per side for a total of 8 (all grade 8 SS hardware).

Starting with the water tank; 19 gallon beauty. Its plenty of water for 2 people and 2 dogs for a week for cooking and drinking. Shower water will be separate. The holder concept is simple. The tank sits 1.5" angle iron base that has two tabs coming out front and back with nuts welded to the bottom. The top part of the holder is another 1.5" angle iron with 2" metal straps coming down with matching tabs. Using security allen bolts its simple to install, easy to remove and service, and theft proof. We added additional security of putting a locking strap over the filler cap. simple latch consists of a small hole in the strap, welded tube with hole drilled through to put a master lock on. Simple and effective.

 

[Admartin]

getting front layout setup to figure out distance needed on receiver in order to clear the rear tailgate/tire combo

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

The man has skills!

Looks great.

 

[Brentbba]

Loving the way your extended tongue is turning out!

 

[hey you]

Mad skills!!! How did you get the clean miter cuts on the angle iron?

 

[The Jade Bean]

Muy Bonita!


-Daniel

 

[Admartin]

thanks for the kind words. the skills belong to David as he's been the chief fabricator for this project. I'm better at throwing out ideas to make his job harder

The miter cuts i'm not 100 percent sure on, i'll have to ask him how he completed those, I'll definitely give him a call though and get back to you.

The lid struts required some thought as we wanted to keep a clean as possible on the lid to not detract from the construction and detail. We also needed the fridge lid of the engel 45 to open completely when the lid is in the up position. Being that the fridge is position in the back corner (weight distribution) the lid needed to open right around 55-60 degree's. We got the angle of force specs from Mcmaster Carr and then realized we could use the existing bolt hole that mounts the skin to lid structure. Once this point was fixed the tub side mount was completed. The lid requires some force to open the first 6" and then the struts take over. To close it requires force for the first 4" and then the weight of the lid and gravity takes over. Whats nice about this setup is that the lid cannot close or open unless you give it some effort. With the globetrotter on the lid we needed 125lb struts, without the globetrotter is only needs a 75lb strut.