Moving a little to fast with the mouse today and somehow I stepped on the original post -- it's all gone.
But my problem remains. See below.
But my problem remains. See below.
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Experience with All-Pro Pro Links Lower Control Arms?
- Thread starter NE07FJC
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- Thread starter
- #2
Like I said, moving a little too fast and furious with the mouse today... This time I created an accidental duplicate of the post below this one, which is the post that really matters anyway.
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- Thread starter
- #3
I know one is not supposed to "bump" their own thread... However, I still need some feedback.
I snapped some pix today. They aren't very good, but I think they help get the problem across.
1. Here is the front end (top end?) of a lower control arm with the zerk showing. Note the scratches on the TLC Trailing Arm skids (upper right) - but none on the arm itself -- very cool
2. Here is the same front end, but from a higher and more level angle. There's a couple things to note. One: you can't see the zerk - it appears to be pretty well protected by the Trailing Arm Skid and the mounting bracket itself. Two: you can't see it very well from here, BUT the upper portion of the mount point is *enclosed* -- there would be absolutely no way to get at the zerk if it was mounted in the up position:
3. Now, here is the back / lower end of the arm. This zerk looks much more exposed than the other one. I was unable to snap a good photo of the top - but once again, the area surrounding the upper portions of the mout point would make it impossible to get at the zerk if it were in the up position.
P.S. I plan to ping All-Pro today and see what they have to say on this topic. However, I have more faith in you guys than them. Would love your ideas and suggestions.
I snapped some pix today. They aren't very good, but I think they help get the problem across.
1. Here is the front end (top end?) of a lower control arm with the zerk showing. Note the scratches on the TLC Trailing Arm skids (upper right) - but none on the arm itself -- very cool
2. Here is the same front end, but from a higher and more level angle. There's a couple things to note. One: you can't see the zerk - it appears to be pretty well protected by the Trailing Arm Skid and the mounting bracket itself. Two: you can't see it very well from here, BUT the upper portion of the mount point is *enclosed* -- there would be absolutely no way to get at the zerk if it was mounted in the up position:
3. Now, here is the back / lower end of the arm. This zerk looks much more exposed than the other one. I was unable to snap a good photo of the top - but once again, the area surrounding the upper portions of the mout point would make it impossible to get at the zerk if it were in the up position.
P.S. I plan to ping All-Pro today and see what they have to say on this topic. However, I have more faith in you guys than them. Would love your ideas and suggestions.
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you can get small bolts that thread in where the zerk is, the only thing i can see you doing is to grease the joint unthread the zerk and screw in the small bolt. the only thing the bolt would do is not hang down as much but it would suck talking it out and screwing in the zerk every tim you wanted to grease it.
you could just leave the zerk in and wheel with it until it snaps off and just go in with a screw extractor and pop the rest out and replace it with a new one
best of luck- nat
you could just leave the zerk in and wheel with it until it snaps off and just go in with a screw extractor and pop the rest out and replace it with a new one
best of luck- nat
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks. I'll probably resort to that eventually. But this is really a lower control arm / zerk question. I.e., these arms are adjustable and sold for many different Toyota trucks.
I'm guessing that on some models, the arms can be installed with the zerks facing "up" (which would make it nearly impossible for them to be snapped off on the trail).
But on the FJC installing the arms with the zerks up would make them inaccessible.
I guess my real question here is: Can I just remove and stow the zerks when off-roading? Maybe put a plug of some kind in their place (to keep dirt/mud/water out)? Is there such a thing as a grease fitting plug?
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- #7
How funny. I must have been writing my last post as Jason was writing his. I just learned something! I had no idea there was such a thing as a "screw extractor."
I think I like the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it approach."
Anybody else want to chime in? Or is that the right answer?
weld a ring of tube around it to protect it. But removing the zerk and putting a plug in there is the easiest.
i like that idea of welding a ring
ne07fjc if your around the boston area any time soon let me know i can help find you a solution
- Thread starter
- #10
>> weld a ring...
You've obviously never met me. I didn't even know what a zerk was before last week. My tools fit in a tackle box, with room left over.
>> if you are ever in the Boston-area...
Define "Boston-area". I am in Framingham every day right now (dad is in the hospital there after hip replacement).
You've obviously never met me. I didn't even know what a zerk was before last week. My tools fit in a tackle box, with room left over.
>> if you are ever in the Boston-area...
Define "Boston-area". I am in Framingham every day right now (dad is in the hospital there after hip replacement).
My AP arms are installed zerks down & have done lots of wheeling without any issues. I do use my skids & sliders - this is most recent underside shot.
- Thread starter
- #12
Wow! Extra credit for watching out for us Northeasters!
Up here, the rocks have a habit of "jumping up" and "snatching up" anything exposed.
I messed up the beginning of the thread on an edit... I lost a zerk on my very first time out post-install.
If you ever make it up this way, I'll show you what I mean....
Up here, the rocks have a habit of "jumping up" and "snatching up" anything exposed.
I messed up the beginning of the thread on an edit... I lost a zerk on my very first time out post-install.
If you ever make it up this way, I'll show you what I mean....
My AP arms are installed zerks down & have done lots of wheeling without any issues. I do use my skids & sliders - this is most recent underside shot.
Sounds like fun - besides slick rock & sand we have nasty sharp rocks - I've ripped 4 sidewalls in the last year, sure glad I bought no questions asked tire warranty
Ever in my area will show you trails
Ever in my area will show you trails
>> weld a ring...
You've obviously never met me. I didn't even know what a zerk was before last week. My tools fit in a tackle box, with room left over.
>> if you are ever in the Boston-area...
Define "Boston-area". I am in Framingham every day right now (dad is in the hospital there after hip replacement).
i live in malden so if your around here at all i could help you weld on some rings
"weld a ring...
You've obviously never met me. I didn't even know what a zerk was before last week. My tools fit in a tackle box, with room left over. :l"
haa kind of figured that
that how i was when i first started wheeling now i can do dam near anything to these rigs you need help with anything let me know im usually working on these things almost every weekend
From the pic it looks like you got lucky that the fitting is still there. How much of the joint is exposed when you jack up the chassis as high as you can? you may be able to grease it if it is on top w/ the chassis jacked up? If there is not enough room then would there be if you used a 90 degree fitting? (keep in mind that the 90 can be pointed say 15 or 20 degrees from the axis of the link, this put everything very tight to the joint body, then I would use a needle attachment to get in to the fitting.
Keep working towards a solution because you do not want to keep the joints mounted fittings down if you wheel it you WILL rip them off then they will get contaminated and destroy themselves.
Matt
Keep working towards a solution because you do not want to keep the joints mounted fittings down if you wheel it you WILL rip them off then they will get contaminated and destroy themselves.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #16
Now we're rollin'... Thanks guys. The follow-up from you guys got me motivated to throw on some old jeans and an old coat and crawl under the truck with a real camera. Yesterday's pics were from my cell phone camera, and I was trying not to get on the ground in my work clothes 
Upon closer / better inspection maybe reinstalling with the zerks in the up position is a option after all.
1. Note that the zerks are angled (45 deg I think eyeballing it) and that at the top/front end the previously mentioned enclosure does have an opening that I could not see yesterday. It looks like if I reinstall them other-way-around I might get lucky. It's the "might" part that makes me nervous.
2. Now, for the bottom/rear end of the arms. Zerks are angled on this end too. And, once again it looks like there might be just enough room to get inside that enclosure on the top side with a grease gun.
Hey Matt. I don't really know what a "needle attachment" is, but I can make an educated guess. Maybe this is all I would need to ensure I could reach those zerks inside those tight spaces (pictured above)???
Upon closer / better inspection maybe reinstalling with the zerks in the up position is a option after all.
1. Note that the zerks are angled (45 deg I think eyeballing it) and that at the top/front end the previously mentioned enclosure does have an opening that I could not see yesterday. It looks like if I reinstall them other-way-around I might get lucky. It's the "might" part that makes me nervous.
2. Now, for the bottom/rear end of the arms. Zerks are angled on this end too. And, once again it looks like there might be just enough room to get inside that enclosure on the top side with a grease gun.
Hey Matt. I don't really know what a "needle attachment" is, but I can make an educated guess. Maybe this is all I would need to ensure I could reach those zerks inside those tight spaces (pictured above)???
with the new pics it definitely looks like they will be accessible from the top. I have seen two different needle nozzles, one looks like a I.V. needle for poking through dust boots and such and the other looks more like a pencil, this is the one you would want to use for this application the opening on the end is the same diameter as the ball in the face of the zerk so you push it up against the ball and pump in the grease.
On Another note are these bodies threaded on one side or is there snap rings on either side holding the guts together?
Matt
On Another note are these bodies threaded on one side or is there snap rings on either side holding the guts together?
Matt
- Thread starter
- #18
I'm not sure I understand your question -- if you are talking about the bodies of the lower control arms they are adjustable (threaded at both ends) so they can be extended or compressed to fit the Tacomoa or FJC in question, given it's suspension/lift.
See the vendor's description here if you care to.
I looked at them, I wondering about the assembly of the section surrounding the spherical ball that the bolt goes through, there is a race, a washer then a snap ring to hold it together but is the other side the same, or does it use a threaded washer to adjust the preload? I am asking for selfish reasons...
Matt
Matt
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- #20
Not 100% sure, so I PM'd someone from All-Pro on the FJC forum. Waiting to hear back.