Experience with All-Pro Pro Links Lower Control Arms?

[NE07FJC]

I looked at them, I wondering about the assembly of the section surrounding the spherical ball that the bolt goes through, there is a race, a washer then a snap ring to hold it together but is the other side the same, or does it use a threaded washer to adjust the preload? I am asking for selfish reasons...

Matt

Here is what the guy from All-Pro had to say - hope it helps...

"a lip on the housing is the stop for the washer on one end, and once compressed together the snap ring holds the other side together"

And he included this link....

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx

 

["N8"]

what you gotta do is get a 90 degree zirk fitting and flip that thing so the fitting side of the link is facing up. you will definitely be able to get a grease gun on it as long as you get it to point back torward the trailing arm itself if that makes any sense.

 

["N8"]

something like the one on the left: http://img.alibaba.com/photo/100983944/Zerk_Fitting.jpg

 

[NE07FJC]

Thanks, Nate (and everyone else).

 

[NE07FJC]

Here is the "official answer" from All-Pro: "we recommend you install the arms 'zerks-down'".

All-Pro also said "...one may install the arms 'zerks-up' if one wishes, as long as you don't mind jacking up the truck to access the zerks when it's time to grease them." This relieves the tension on the suspension and causes the gaps picture above to open up a bit more (making it possible to get a grease gun on the zerks more easily).

Hoping they'll respond to my "can I use a plug of some sort..." question.

And, still trying to figure what I am going to do.

 

[NE07FJC]

Okay guys. All-Pro didn't respond to my "plug question" so I've been plugging away on my own (pun intended).

I think I am getting close to a solution (that doesn't involve welding and doesn't involve reinstalling my control arms "zerks-up"), for now...

It's taking way more sleuthing than I'd like, but here's what I've got (below) and now I just need some guidance from you technical / mechanical types (please).

1. All-Pro Pro Links lower control arms are made with forged "Johnny Joints" from Currie Enterprises. See: Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts

2. The Currie Johnny Joints in question use a M6 6mm x 1.00 pitch metric Zerk fitting as shown here:
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts

3. I believe, therefore (this is where I need your advice and help), that the perfect short term answer to my problem is to buy some M6 set screws, which will have recessed hex heads and (if I am thinking about this correctly) would sit flush with the surface if I remove the zerks and replace them with the set screws, when wheeling.

4. I am thinking of ordering a) some extra M6 Zerk fittings and b) a bunch of M6 set screws so I always have extra of both on hand.

If one of you "real mechanics" (or even semi-pro mechanics) can take a minute to follow the links above and check my homework, I would really, really appreciate it!

 

[NE07FJC]

Getting ready to close this out (hopefully this info. helps someone else some day)...

I am ready to hit the trail this weekend with:

1) a 9 mm "gear wrench" - box end on one end, ratchet on the other, fits the hex on the M6 zerks

2) a spare set of M6 6mm x 1mm pitch zerks (plus the 4 fittings that are already on the arms)

3) a set of 10 (got some extras) hex head M6 6mm x 1mm pitch x "eye-balled it so it was just a tiny bit shorter than the threaded part of the zerk" set screws

4) a 4mm L-shaped hex head wrench (matches the hex head on the set screws)

5) my grease gun (filled with a tube of synthetic, water-proof grease)

I plan to grease up Friday to give myself a little wiggle room in case of Murphy's Law and replace the zerks with the set screws.

IMHO I should be good to go for the weekend -- and probably for the long run too.

If anyone sees anything wrong with my little plan, please let me know.