Expected MPG on FJ60 w/ 5 speed, other addons?

[ocowells]

I was recommended to you guys by a friend, who said I could find near everything I wanted to know and more about cruisers on here. I've been thinking about doing the H55 conversion on my '87, as well as the weber carburator (32/36 or 38/38), DUI coil and wires, and headers. Compared to the 11 or so MPG that I get now, what can I expect for a combo like this (aside from enjoying taking the beast on the freeway )? It'd be nice, but that's over $4k in extras, at least. Thanks!

 

[CardinalFJ60]

well...

If your motor is in decent shape and compression is OK...you might see 14-17 regularly. But in order to get that, you need to be sure there are no vac leaks, manifold leaks, etc...

I have the 4.11 gears and 33's with the 5spd, and I get 14-17 regularly.

I'd recomend staying away from the weber...just get your OEM carb rebuilt by Jim C. or Mark A. on the board here.

HTH

It's alot of money, and if you do the math, you won't make your money back right away (if ever), but the benefits in driving quality outweigh that in my opinion.

 

[REKCUT]

Welcome to the neighborhood. If your looking for great milage then you are probably not in the correct car. That being said you should start with the tune up. If it needs new wires and plug please get that looked at. The 5 spd will help with the highway milage and if an envied addition to any fj60. Most of the responses you will get here will tell you not to go with the weber but rather send your stock carb to JIMC on the board here and have him rebuild it for you. If you go with the weber use the 38/38 but it wont be for better Fuel economy. The headers will also give you a little better power but not a lot of return for you buck. A proper running enging will give you the most bang for your buck, but the 5 spd would be the most fun along with the most expensive addition. If your luck you will increase you MPG by 4 to 5 or so.

 

[RredFJ40]

11 or so in stock form is an engine in poor repair. I'd fix the illness first instead of trying to cover up the symptoms with a 5 speed.

Definetely stick with the Aisin carb - if anything, a weber will drop your mileage even farther.

 

[REKCUT]

Like I said. Most responses will be to fix the factoy one. That being said I run a weber and its great. It has to be set up right. Just like you want one of the experts here on the board fixing your factory one you need it set up properly. My truck has no smog equipmnet and it runs great for about 4 years now on a weber 38. Great power and I go about 220 to 250 miles on a about 18 to 19 gallons. This is odometer is off though because I run 33's so its more liek 250 to 275 on the miles.

 

[ocowells]

Doing a tune-up is at the top of my list; I bought an 87 landcruiser as a project with almost no rust, 115k miles that overheated for $1k, and suspect it either has a blown head gasket or a cracked head (soon to be determined). Good to know it can get over 11mpg; I'm not looking for a fuel-efficient car, but it would be nice to not bleed myself dry like that.

Four questions for you guys: 1. Why is a rebuild of the Aisen carburator better than the webber unit? I figured with all of the smog stuff attached to it, it'd be a pain to get running right. Luckily I live in an area of Cali. that doesn't smog, so I wouldn't be surprised if the smog equipment accidentally 'fell off' of the vehicle during an offroad outing; thus, the webber seems like a good choice. However, I'd rather not spend the money if not needed.

2. What kind of spark plug wires, etc. do you guys recommend running, and do you recommend the DUI HEI distributor upgrade? Is it worth anything more than bling points at a local rally, or? Again, I definately wouldn't mind saving the money.

3. Where's the cheapest place for finding an H55 either new, used or rebuilt? Man-A-Fre offers them at a very high price, and I found cruiserparts.net which offered a crate unit for the price of Man-A-Fre's used unit (albeit without transfer case). Speaking of which, can the 4-speed transfer case be used on the H55?

4. Can I use any head from the FJ60 series, or are the heads different pre and post '85, or? All of the rest of the equipment in the head is OK, so would it be possible to buy an older head and transfer everything from my 87 head?

Thanks VERY much for the help. I've fallen in love with this truck and want to set it up well, but I'm trying to avoid the money-hemmorhaging associated with 4x4's.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Doing a tune-up is at the top of my list; I bought an 87 landcruiser as a project with almost no rust, 115k miles that overheated for $1k, and suspect it either has a blown head gasket or a cracked head (soon to be determined). Good to know it can get over 11mpg; I'm not looking for a fuel-efficient car, but it would be nice to not bleed myself dry like that.

Four questions for you guys: 1. Why is a rebuild of the Aisen carburator better than the webber unit? I figured with all of the smog stuff attached to it, it'd be a pain to get running right. Luckily I live in an area of Cali. that doesn't smog, so I wouldn't be surprised if the smog equipment accidentally 'fell off' of the vehicle during an offroad outing; thus, the webber seems like a good choice. However, I'd rather not spend the money if not needed.

1-A: the farther you get from stock Toyota the farther you get from reliability. The carb actually has more CFM than a Weber and is designed for a third world spec vehicle. Find a competent rebuilder and save your headaches for something else.

2. What kind of spark plug wires, etc. do you guys recommend running, and do you recommend the DUI HEI distributor upgrade? Is it worth anything more than bling points at a local rally, or? Again, I definately wouldn't mind saving the money.

2-A: Again stock, I have yet to see your even hear of someone who has actually benifited from doing a DUI conversion. I can tell you I see more "like new" units in the for sale section than in the wanted section. Stock plug wires will get you a good 150K. I would like to see an aftermarket set get 50K.

3. Where's the cheapest place for finding an H55 either new, used or rebuilt? Man-A-Fre offers them at a very high price, and I found cruiserparts.net which offered a crate unit for the price of Man-A-Fre's used unit (albeit without transfer case). Speaking of which, can the 4-speed transfer case be used on the H55?

3-A: do a search for c-dan. he is the local board guy that is a parts guy for a dealership. He will get you the right parts the first time for about the same as cruiserparts. cruiserparts second if he can't on the H55f. Buy a new 5speed shifter along with it the 4 speed will only give you a headache. Stock split case from an 87 is the best and will be a direct bolt on (just finished mine a month ago)

4. Can I use any head from the FJ60 series, or are the heads different pre and post '85, or? All of the rest of the equipment in the head is OK, so would it be possible to buy an older head and transfer everything from my 87 head?

4-A: look for an 85-87 head I am not positive but I thik there is some slight variations. Find a good used one in the parting section.

Thanks VERY much for the help. I've fallen in love with this truck and want to set it up well, but I'm trying to avoid the money-hemmorhaging associated with 4x4's.

Too late for that... this sight will kill you with a bad case of the wants if you stick around for too long.

 

[schaats]

I'll answer shortly.

1. OEM(AISIN) cause less trouble than any other 3rd party carb.

2. I don't know about distributor because my preference is oem contact point type ignition
Regarding ignition wire and spark plugs, I'v used oem, Bosch, Autolite, and etc but couldn't distinguish the differences between them.
The only thing I found is oem last long than others.

3. Contact cdan on this board. He might can offer you nice price.

4. Yes, the head are same from 08/80 ~ 08/87 USA FJ60 and you can use your old transfer from 87 LC60 with H55F tranny.

Have nice Landcruising ~!

Doing a tune-up is at the top of my list; I bought an 87 landcruiser as a project with almost no rust, 115k miles that overheated for $1k, and suspect it either has a blown head gasket or a cracked head (soon to be determined). Good to know it can get over 11mpg; I'm not looking for a fuel-efficient car, but it would be nice to not bleed myself dry like that.

Four questions for you guys: 1. Why is a rebuild of the Aisen carburator better than the webber unit? I figured with all of the smog stuff attached to it, it'd be a pain to get running right. Luckily I live in an area of Cali. that doesn't smog, so I wouldn't be surprised if the smog equipment accidentally 'fell off' of the vehicle during an offroad outing; thus, the webber seems like a good choice. However, I'd rather not spend the money if not needed.

2. What kind of spark plug wires, etc. do you guys recommend running, and do you recommend the DUI HEI distributor upgrade? Is it worth anything more than bling points at a local rally, or? Again, I definately wouldn't mind saving the money.

3. Where's the cheapest place for finding an H55 either new, used or rebuilt? Man-A-Fre offers them at a very high price, and I found cruiserparts.net which offered a crate unit for the price of Man-A-Fre's used unit (albeit without transfer case). Speaking of which, can the 4-speed transfer case be used on the H55?

4. Can I use any head from the FJ60 series, or are the heads different pre and post '85, or? All of the rest of the equipment in the head is OK, so would it be possible to buy an older head and transfer everything from my 87 head?

Thanks VERY much for the help. I've fallen in love with this truck and want to set it up well, but I'm trying to avoid the money-hemmorhaging associated with 4x4's.

 

[lehiguy]

Ok, there are some Weber haters on this forum. Having years of tuning experience with all types of carbs, I can honestly say that I would rather try to climb Mt Everest in my underware than piss around with a patheticly undersized stock carb. The day I stripped off all the emissions crap, including the carb, and replaced it with a Weber was the day that the six actually felt like it might have a displacement of 4.2 liters. The difference was astonishing. (I also had a header, you MUST run a fluid heat riser with that). The weber is a set it and forget it carb that doesn't care if it's 110 degrees, minus 20, level ground or resting on the tailgate. They are easily tuned and they stay that way. Get a 38/38 and find out the potential that motor has locked up inside it. Whatever you do, DO NOT be tempted to run a Holley. They hate bumps, steep hills and changes in temperature. I got 13 to 15 with 33" tires running the weber. Later I swaped to a 350, but that is another story. Should you decide to go that rout (and I highly reccomend it) PM me and I will get you some jetting specs that will work for you.

 

[MDH33]

Totally stock, properly tuned and maintained (including JimC rebuilt carb), my FJ60 gets 14-16 mpg. Here's a chart from a road trip last year:

 

[AKcruiserfreak]

My 60 with a 4 speed got 14-17mpg regularly. I'd love to see what it would have got with a 5 speed. I guess your mileage depends on how heavy your foot is.

TK

 

[Downey]

Ok, there are some Weber haters on this forum. Having years of tuning experience with all types of carbs, I can honestly say that I would rather try to climb Mt Everest in my underware than piss around with a patheticly undersized stock carb. The day I stripped off all the emissions ****, including the carb, and replaced it with a Weber was the day that the six actually felt like it might have a displacement of 4.2 liters. The difference was astonishing. (I also had a header, you MUST run a fluid heat riser with that). The weber is a set it and forget it carb that doesn't care if it's 110 degrees, minus 20, level ground or resting on the tailgate. They are easily tuned and they stay that way. Get a 38/38 and find out the potential that motor has locked up inside it. Whatever you do, DO NOT be tempted to run a Holley. They hate bumps, steep hills and changes in temperature. I got 13 to 15 with 33" tires running the weber. Later I swaped to a 350, but that is another story. Should you decide to go that rout (and I highly reccomend it) PM me and I will get you some jetting specs that will work for you.

Then PM me and I'll tell you how everyone is having a great deal of success with the Holley, and the upgrades available for it that are not available for a Weber. Then we can talk about the guys that are getting 20-21 MPG with 6 Cyl. fuel injection!!!!!

 

[rover67]

i never had the stock carb on my truck, but did have the weber on there for a while. I really like webers, but i have been using them on cars for a long time. To me they are easy to tune and run very well. My 2f with a properly tuned weber gave me 16 on the hwy going easy with 33's and 13-14 going 75-80. around town, with grandma driving got 15-16 and driving it "normal" 10-12. and with that carb, and the stock exhaust the truck went waaaay faster than i ever needed it to. like 95+mph fast. kind-of irrelevant but whatever.

I really don't think thats bad. they both should give the same mileage if set up properly really.

 

[Cruzerman]

I can honestly say that I would rather try to climb Mt Everest in my underware than piss around with a patheticly undersized stock carb.

My understanding is that the stock carb is actually larger than the Weber. IMHO, people who claim that a new aftermarket carb did wonders for their rig had an old, out of repair stock carb. Anything would work better than a carb that wasn't working right.

Here's a link to a Jim C.'s carb analysis.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/29712-holley-weber.html

I also had a header, you MUST run a fluid heat riser with that.

I (along with lots of others) have never run a fluid heat riser with my header. Doesn't seem like a MUST to me.

The search tool is your friend in this place. There are lots of threads on 5 speeds, mileage, carbs, dizzys, etc. Enjoy and welcome.

 

[lehiguy]

Then PM me and I'll tell you how everyone is having a great deal of success with the Holley, and the upgrades available for it that are not available for a Weber. Then we can talk about the guys that are getting 20-21 MPG with 6 Cyl. fuel injection!!!!!

I ran two different Holleys, one on an FJ40, and one on an FJ60 with dismal results. Neither of the floats, side or center inlet, fixes the fuel sloshing problem, the vent tube helps, but doesn't eliminate the flooding issue. Jet extenders made no difference, fuel pressure regulator helped, but not enough. The low vacuum enrichment or "power valve" is prone to failure and dumps in too much fuel when the vacuum drops. The carb was designed for the street. If you never take your Cruiser off the pavement, I suppose that a Holley would be fine. I'm a bit more demanding than that. The Weber is vastly superior with it's small, central float bowl and actual pilot jets for the low throttle opening metering. Fuel injection will beat them both of course, but please don't even think of telling me the virtues of a Holley, they simply don't have any when the pavement ends, or you hit a big bump, or when the weather changes, etc, etc. Oh wait, I'm wrong, they do have one virtue; you can pick one up cheap. Gee, I wonder why.

 

[lehiguy]

My understanding is that the stock carb is actually larger than the Weber. IMHO, people who claim that a new aftermarket carb did wonders for their rig had an old, out of repair stock carb. Anything would work better than a carb that wasn't working right.

Here's a link to a Jim C.'s carb analysis.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/29712-holley-weber.html



I (along with lots of others) have never run a fluid heat riser with my header. Doesn't seem like a MUST to me.

The search tool is your friend in this place. There are lots of threads on 5 speeds, mileage, carbs, dizzys, etc. Enjoy and welcome.

If a carb is jetted properly, It will run poorly in cold weather unless proper fuel atomization can occur. The laws of physics are not going to give you a pass on this, when pressure drops, so does temperature, especially when you have a vaporized liquid in that vacuum. Simply stated, in the winter your intake manifold is a very cold place and the heat from the cylinder head, if it's cold enough, will not be able to overcome it. I live in Utah, it gets plenty cold. If you live in a more temperate place you can probably get away without it, or if you're unfortunate enough to have a motor that is running too rich. But having gone down both paths, with and without, I'm saying if it snows where you live and your carb is jetted properly, you need some type of heat riser. I made my own from a piece of aluminum, but they can be had fairly inexpensively.

 

[Dynosoar]

Stock carb is 38/40 vs. 38/38 for the weber So the Aisin carb is BIGGER than the Weber.


Dynosoar

 

[Tvaldriz]

Then PM me and I'll tell you how everyone is having a great deal of success with the Holley, and the upgrades available for it that are not available for a Weber. Then we can talk about the guys that are getting 20-21 MPG with 6 Cyl. fuel injection!!!!!

PM'd you. You got my attention!

 

[lehiguy]

Stock carb is 38/40 vs. 38/38 for the weber So the Aisin carb is BIGGER than the Weber.


Dynosoar

Just because the throttle plates are bigger, doesn't mean if flows more CFM. It's too encumbered with other junk.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Factual carb info is in this post.