I have a small exhaust leak where the intake and exhaust manifilds seem to join. Do I have to pull the whole thing? In addition, I seem to have a bolt loose under the back of the carb that rattles up and conveniently sticks the throttle to the floor. It appears I need to pull the carb to even gain access to this loose bolt. Any idea what this is for? I can't seem to see anything in there...thanks in advance.
exhaust leak.
- Thread starter 75pinz
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Tighten With Socket and Long Extension
Should be able to get at the intake/exhaust bolts and re-torque without removing anything. Impossible to see the ones below the carb heat shield but there should be an indention to let you get at it with a socket and long extension.
Gordo
Should be able to get at the intake/exhaust bolts and re-torque without removing anything. Impossible to see the ones below the carb heat shield but there should be an indention to let you get at it with a socket and long extension.
Gordo
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Make sure it's really there. It seems much more common for the EGR pipe gasket to leak. If it is leaking between the intake/exhaust, it can mean the mainfolds are warped, and it might be easier in the end to replace the intake/exhaust as a unit. I got one last year from Toyota so I know they still have them. About $600 or so which is a little expensive, but a permanent fix.
Fourrunner
SILVER Star
Ditto that...check the EGR gasket...mine was missing a nut and the other was really loose.
I've been having the same issue but haven't look in to it that much but I know it's there.
Manifold leaks can result in burnt valves = pull the head and do a valve job. You need to get on this with a check of valve sealling while you are at it.
Been there with my old FJ40.
Mike S
Been there with my old FJ40.
Mike S
I have never had a manifold leak on a 2f, yes they can happen. But on all 3 of my 82+ 2Fs all have had leaks in the EGR cooler pipe flange.
use a piece of hose(one end in ear other poking around) to find the leak, its better to look for it when the motor is cold as some leaks go away when warm.
use a piece of hose(one end in ear other poking around) to find the leak, its better to look for it when the motor is cold as some leaks go away when warm.
Doing the manifolds isn't too bad ONCE you get all the emissions crap out of the way. I would take digi pics or really study the FSM first.
Been There
Agree on checking the EGR tube first.
My FJ-60 had exhaust leaks in the engine compartment since I bought it in '96.
I first fixed the EGR tube leak. It was leaking at the flang that connects to the manifold. Kind of painful to remove and found the flang was warped and needed replacement.
After I fixed the EGR tube leak I found that I still had an exhaust leak. Couldn't precisely locate it but could still hear the notorious exhaust ticking noise and had eye watering exhaust fumes in the engine compartment.
I finally determined the leak was under the carb shield. With a freshly started cold engine I could get my hand in a spot that I could feel the exhaust leak. I never checked to see if I had loose bolts, I was hell bent on going to a header and de-smog anyway. Also heard about the possibility of warped intake/exhaust... Figured if I was removing the manifolds, a good header was going back in it's place.
Ordered the SOR header (? $250 ish) and dug in. During the removal process I found that I had 2 loose manifold bolts under the carb shield. Hindsight, if I really didn't want to go full out I'm confident I could have just tightened them down. The bolts and threads turned out to be in great shape.
It's now de-smogged with header.
Things I would have done different: I removed everything on the desmog... everything! I'm now looking to replace the vacuum switch for the decel circuit. I get exhaust popping when I decellerate in gear. My wife pitched all the parts I removed in a last minute garage clean out while we were moving out of our house. Other than that, totally satisfied with the outcome.
Keep in mind if you go to headers you may need to retain the long pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the Cat. The exhaust shops couldn't find a flang that fits the stock cat. Ended up mod'ing the pipe to connect header to cat. Around $100 in exhaust work.
Good luck, Gordo
BTW, I drove the truck for around 5 years, 40k miles with the exhaust manifold leak. Also heard about possibility of burnt valves. No problem that I'm aware of on mine.
Agree on checking the EGR tube first.
My FJ-60 had exhaust leaks in the engine compartment since I bought it in '96.
I first fixed the EGR tube leak. It was leaking at the flang that connects to the manifold. Kind of painful to remove and found the flang was warped and needed replacement.
After I fixed the EGR tube leak I found that I still had an exhaust leak. Couldn't precisely locate it but could still hear the notorious exhaust ticking noise and had eye watering exhaust fumes in the engine compartment.
I finally determined the leak was under the carb shield. With a freshly started cold engine I could get my hand in a spot that I could feel the exhaust leak. I never checked to see if I had loose bolts, I was hell bent on going to a header and de-smog anyway. Also heard about the possibility of warped intake/exhaust... Figured if I was removing the manifolds, a good header was going back in it's place.
Ordered the SOR header (? $250 ish) and dug in. During the removal process I found that I had 2 loose manifold bolts under the carb shield. Hindsight, if I really didn't want to go full out I'm confident I could have just tightened them down. The bolts and threads turned out to be in great shape.
It's now de-smogged with header.
Things I would have done different: I removed everything on the desmog... everything! I'm now looking to replace the vacuum switch for the decel circuit. I get exhaust popping when I decellerate in gear. My wife pitched all the parts I removed in a last minute garage clean out while we were moving out of our house. Other than that, totally satisfied with the outcome.
Keep in mind if you go to headers you may need to retain the long pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the Cat. The exhaust shops couldn't find a flang that fits the stock cat. Ended up mod'ing the pipe to connect header to cat. Around $100 in exhaust work.
Good luck, Gordo
BTW, I drove the truck for around 5 years, 40k miles with the exhaust manifold leak. Also heard about possibility of burnt valves. No problem that I'm aware of on mine.
Correction, Single Loose Bolt
Looking through my pictures of the process I remembered I had one loose bolt. The one on the back side of the carb. This is how it looked when I got the carb and shield off:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6252&stc=1
Looking through my pictures of the process I remembered I had one loose bolt. The one on the back side of the carb. This is how it looked when I got the carb and shield off:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6252&stc=1
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #13
That's the one
What is that bolt for? I haven't removed anything yet. The one in the pic that is right behind where the carb would be bolted . Perhaps bolts the intake to the exhaust or something? Mine is very loose, not sure if it will just tighten up or what. Is there a nut on the back or does it screw into something? thanks, bryan
What is that bolt for? I haven't removed anything yet. The one in the pic that is right behind where the carb would be bolted . Perhaps bolts the intake to the exhaust or something? Mine is very loose, not sure if it will just tighten up or what. Is there a nut on the back or does it screw into something? thanks, bryan
Intake/Exhaust Manifold Bolt
If you look closely at the pic of the flang area you will see that the bolts actually go between the intake and exhaust manifold flangs. The in/ex flangs have a half circle cut out that mate up to each other forming a bolt hole.
I actually ordered all new bolts figuring that my old ones would be corroded or destroyed during removal. Also expected I would be tapping out some of the holes. Turned out all of the bolts and hole threads were in great shape... I could have removed the loose one, put on some Loc-Tite and re-installed.
My gasket was in pretty bad shape though, may have still leaked even with tightening.
If I recall correctly, the carb shield has an indention in it to allow you to get at these bolts without taking anything off (6 or 8" extension). Of course I didn't realize this until I had the stuff removed.
Looking at the bolt I think it was a hex head. Use a hex socket. The bolts screw into a threaded hole in the head.
Gordo
If you look closely at the pic of the flang area you will see that the bolts actually go between the intake and exhaust manifold flangs. The in/ex flangs have a half circle cut out that mate up to each other forming a bolt hole.
I actually ordered all new bolts figuring that my old ones would be corroded or destroyed during removal. Also expected I would be tapping out some of the holes. Turned out all of the bolts and hole threads were in great shape... I could have removed the loose one, put on some Loc-Tite and re-installed.
My gasket was in pretty bad shape though, may have still leaked even with tightening.
If I recall correctly, the carb shield has an indention in it to allow you to get at these bolts without taking anything off (6 or 8" extension). Of course I didn't realize this until I had the stuff removed.
Looking at the bolt I think it was a hex head. Use a hex socket. The bolts screw into a threaded hole in the head.
Gordo
75pinz-Your post says that you have an exhaust leak where the intake and exhaust manifolds mate together. If that is true, you will have to take the manifolds off and disassemble them. There are two fairly thick gaskets and a metal plate which go between the two manifolds. The plate on mine was broken and was probably leaking some exhaust fumes into the engine compartment but with all the other leaks, this one went undetected. If your plate has cracked like mine and the gaskets have deteriorated, you may have a fairly substantial exhaust leak there.
I have mine disassembled on the garage floor right now so if you have any specific questions, I may can help.
James
I have mine disassembled on the garage floor right now so if you have any specific questions, I may can help.
James
