Exhaust/intake manifold gasket

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Phares

Phares

Mostly Useless
10 Year
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Threads
105
Messages
1,147
Location
Charlotte NC
I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this but I don't want to break anything.

Is there a secret to getting the manifold separated from the block? I've removed all the nuts etc. but it is on there. BFH?

Also, how heavy is this thing going to be? Is it a requirement to get the faces leveled or just a really good idea?

I mean if Joanna can lift it then I should be ok right???

Chris
 
Last edited:
Phares said:
I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this but I don't want to break anything.

Is there a secret to getting the manifold separated from the block? I've removed all the nuts etc. but it is on there. BFH?

Also, how heavy is this thing going to be? Is it a requirement to get the faces leveled or just a really good idea?

I mean if Joanna can lift it then I should be ok right???

Chris
Click to expand...

Drive a screwdriver or chisel between the intake and the block to separate them. Make sure you took out all 6 bolts and two nuts before doing so.

The tolerance for the faces is .008". If they're warped more than that, they need machining. After dealing with the headaches of leaking gaskets for so long with my own 2F, then working with freshly machined manifolds and having no problems, I recommend machining.
 
Phares said:
It looks like the F only has the four nuts holding it on...I'll go look to see if I missed something...
Click to expand...

Forgot that you have an F. All of my experience is with 2Fs. Still, I thought there were at least 6 nuts holding it on for the F motor. Check top center, then top offset left and right, then from the bottom, offset left and right.
 
I was able to get the parts I needed from SOR/local dealer. The local dealer gave me darn near a 50% discount. A full write up with part numbers and pictures will be posted on my build thread.
 
Ummmm what is that supposed to mean huh? :) Actually it is quite heavy-ask Johnny. Some terrible person accidentally had it slip out of their hands and fall on his finger.
 
I generally put a strap on the manifold and attach top a cherry picker. Pump until you just start tension and give the manifold a whack with a rubber dead blow hammer and it breaks tension an the manifold pops off. Cherry picker was one of the first large tools I ever bought and have been using them ever since. Well worth the investment. I even hung out board boat motors with mine.
 
If you are talking about the flap looking piece between the intake and exhaust manifold under the carb i am not too sure if all the parts are still around for redoing those things. Most have rusted into oblivion. I would just make sure the flap is still working and is not frozen pointed at the base of the carb. Also look for a crack where the carb bolts down onto the intake .
 
SOR part number 044-12C works for the 2F motors, not sure about yours.
 
I just talked to SOR. They got nothing for the F. Hopefully the intake isn't cracked already and doesn't anytime soon. Ill clean everything up real well, inspect, and reinstall. All my new pieces should be here by the end of the week.
 
Those two bolts on the bottom hide from you if you don't know they are there...

A long time ago, back in the early 90's I was putting together a basket case 9 of 72 FJ40 and had the same problem with my exhaust manifold. I used a "Super Missileweld" rod which is meant for welding dissimilar metals - the manifold is cast iron and the "axle" of the baffle is steel. I welded it on both sides to lock it closed.

You can get step down studs to run a 2F manifold on the F. Done that too.

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/...Maintenance-and-Repair/Super-Missileweld.aspx

This BTW is an ideal rod to carry on the trail to fix stuff. You can weld stuff together in a pinch with this that would be hard otherwise. This is the ideal repair rod.

-Stumbaugh
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom