Exhaust cost

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All ramshorn-style cast iron exhaust manifolds dump out towards the center but some applications did this and angled back at ~30degrees. I have this style and they lend themselves well to outside the frame duals. The straight down versions lend themselves to a system that goes inside the frame and out the rear.

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No the studs do not press in, they thread and asside from obvious cracks or serious visual distortion the area that they thread into, is a very important area. The studs sieze and must be removed with heat. Many times they break off in the manifolds or take a piece of the casting with it. Some people will weld this up and re-drill/tap but most bugger this area up pretty bad. If the studs break off they must be drilled out and re-tapped. Some people get the bright idea to use an Easy-Out or screw extractor that promptly breaks off in the hole leaving a much bigger mess.

$20/set is a smoking deal if they aren't all screwed up. I hope your inexperince here doesn't get you burned. These are available new you realize? Here's an example of the desireable 2.5" outlet with integral alternator braket from a Vette for a mear $104/side

Shop 1A Auto® for Chevrolet Corvette 5.4L 327ci (Hi-Flow) Driver Side Exhaust Manifold 1962-68 for your Corvette

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why would anyone want duals on an I6?

I didn't want them but they came with the truck. They sounded great. Pretty much like a tuned 240z. It wouldn't even pass smog, so I used one of the two pipes. It's clean, cool and quiet now.
 
Just found this thread. Picture attached.

Oh... it was $250, and I thought I got taken.
This is a HOME RUN whether it comes off of manifolds or ultra block hugger headers. Here's some Gee Whiz info for you:
(a) Actually Tri-Mill made the first Chevota headers during the late 1960's, then when they refused to redesign them to clear the larger 9/72 gear box, Downey designed the sets that Downey and AA have sold ever since.
(b) Dual exhaust means dual cats, dual mufflers, dual expensive bends, and no place to put them. Perhaps the expensive muffler shop guy opened his mouth before he looked to see that the passengers side of a Landcruiser is full of transfer-case and drive shafts.
(c) 3/8" or thicker flanges are not always a plus---do not judge a Header by how thick it's flanges are. All flanges become somewhat warped/uneven during the manufacturing process/welding. The thinner the flange, the esaier it pulls in to the Head and seals.
 
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Within the last year, I've found new, repro Rams Horn manifolds for $32 each, on sale, +shp. Over $50 otherwise. Check ebay motors, for one.

With reference to 67-72 trucks, the straight dump Rams Horns came in 4x4s, the angle dumps in 2wds to clear a 2wd's IFS frame cradle.

RH manifolds will give a sub 4000 rpm truck SBC with hyd lifters comparable power to headers without header heat, noise, and flange sealing issues. After ceramic coating, they look good, too! I recommend Jet Hot, but they don't guarantee their coating on used manifolds.
 

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