Looking to rent a bay at a self-service garage to replace my shocks and springs + steering stabilizer this weekend. I have all the parts, new OEM toyota shocks and dobinsons stock height springs + steering stabilizer. (Do i need any other parts? Hardware, bushings, etc?? Need to order now if so.) These rent-a-bays have two post lifts and every tool under the sun for use, and my cruiser is pretty close to rust free underneath. I have adequate mechanical knowledge and it looks easy enough just looking at the FSM. Given that i will have a good workspace and probably little complication, how long should it take to do all 4 shocks and springs? Hoping to not spend any more money than for the 8 hour bay rental.
Estimated time on 80 suspension overhaul? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Demonic92
- Start date
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Plenty of folks could do what you are describing in much less than 8 hours but some folks could not. Most of the folks in the group that could do it would know that in advance as they'd have done similar work before. I'm not sure where that puts you but you may be in between where if all goes well you will have time to spare but if anything goes wrong you could run over time.
Things I'd consider doing in advance:
I'd consider having a bit of rust converter on hand, some acid brushes to apply it and a small wire brush to clean. You can spend any extra time you have treating any small rust spots you find underneath. My 80 is close to rust free also but I find little spots that benefit from some converter from time to time.
I should mention that if you have a floor jack, fairly basic metric tools and a space to work you can easily do all of this without a lift and the extra support of the rental place. That may not be an option but I wanted to mention it. If you can go this route you can spend your money on tool purchases vs. tool rentals and be ahead in the long run.
Things I'd consider doing in advance:
- Identify and note the torque specs for all hardware involved.
- Loosen and retorque any hardware that you have the slightest concern about. The lower bolts on the rear shocks for instance are worth turning to make sure they aren't seized, even on a non-rusty 80. The steering stabilizer may be hard to remove though you may need tools at the rental place to remove it.
- Sounds like you'll have the tools you need but simply laying under the rear/front and examining what you are going to do may help you form a game plan.
- Have a game plan for getting the springs in/out. Having a small bottle jack or similar can help get a bit more axle droop, you may need to create slack in brake lines by making one end of the flex line free, disconnecting sway bars from the frame/similar can help, etc. You shouldn't need spring compressors but that's an option if you want to go that way. Stock height springs are pretty easy to get in/out but can require just a bit extra droop.
I'd consider having a bit of rust converter on hand, some acid brushes to apply it and a small wire brush to clean. You can spend any extra time you have treating any small rust spots you find underneath. My 80 is close to rust free also but I find little spots that benefit from some converter from time to time.
I should mention that if you have a floor jack, fairly basic metric tools and a space to work you can easily do all of this without a lift and the extra support of the rental place. That may not be an option but I wanted to mention it. If you can go this route you can spend your money on tool purchases vs. tool rentals and be ahead in the long run.
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I did exactly what you're talking about in my driveway with a floor jack and jack stands in 8 hours by myself. I don't work fast.
The front is easier than the rear.
I also broke off one bolt and drilled and pulled it on a rear upper shock mount in that time.
I'm in the Midwest so I anticipated at least one broken bolt.
Soak everything with PB Blaster multiple times a week or two in advance.
The front is easier than the rear.
I also broke off one bolt and drilled and pulled it on a rear upper shock mount in that time.
I'm in the Midwest so I anticipated at least one broken bolt.
Soak everything with PB Blaster multiple times a week or two in advance.
davidp14
SILVER Star
I've swapped out my suspension twice now in a gravel driveway with jack stands in less than a day. I 2nd the advice of soaking everything with penetrant for a couple days before its go time.
One the rear sway bar links: if you can't unbolt the links just cut them with a sawzall and get new ones. Do not try to mess with the bolts on the bracket. They WILL break. You should replace your links anyway. You can get cheap moog ones at any auto store until you can order better ones.
One the rear sway bar links: if you can't unbolt the links just cut them with a sawzall and get new ones. Do not try to mess with the bolts on the bracket. They WILL break. You should replace your links anyway. You can get cheap moog ones at any auto store until you can order better ones.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Took me around 14 hours by myself in the garage on jack stands. I didn't soak anything in penetrant; I made every mistake a rookie would make, and I had to make multiple trips to the store and the internet.
For me, the rears were the easiest. I swapped those out in no time. I fought the front coils the hardest. Maybe because I was using 75mm Slinky coils? I don't know. I had to call on a friend late at night to help bench-press the axle down while I shoved the coils up and in.
I think it's safe to say if you have some pros working around you in the garage bay you're renting, you'll be fine in less than an 8-hour period.
For me, the rears were the easiest. I swapped those out in no time. I fought the front coils the hardest. Maybe because I was using 75mm Slinky coils? I don't know. I had to call on a friend late at night to help bench-press the axle down while I shoved the coils up and in.
I think it's safe to say if you have some pros working around you in the garage bay you're renting, you'll be fine in less than an 8-hour period.
8 hours should be plenty, doing it solo.
PB blaster, for sure. Once daily, for a week, at least. Cheap insurance to keep you within the 8 hr window.
I'd also recommend having a second adult with a car present. Either in the event of an emergency, an auto parts store run, beer run, etc.
I would also recommend crawling under the vehicle in advance to familiarize yourself with everything. That would also be a good time to lay out all the new parts, just to double check you have everything you need.
Read any directions/instructions in advance too.
Shop towels and a flashlight or headlamp also needed. Not sure if either are in the rental shop.
PB blaster, for sure. Once daily, for a week, at least. Cheap insurance to keep you within the 8 hr window.
I'd also recommend having a second adult with a car present. Either in the event of an emergency, an auto parts store run, beer run, etc.
I would also recommend crawling under the vehicle in advance to familiarize yourself with everything. That would also be a good time to lay out all the new parts, just to double check you have everything you need.
Read any directions/instructions in advance too.
Shop towels and a flashlight or headlamp also needed. Not sure if either are in the rental shop.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
It's always more fun the break bolts with someone around to appreciate it.
- Thread starter
- #8
I am rethinking the rent-a-bay thing as I orginally had no big driveway or yard to work in (I live in the city, obviously where a Land Cruiser belongs) but it looks like I have garage space I can use. This would put me under less of a time constraint, and I have a buddy with an extra car that can help me do part/tool runs, etc.
I have been doing some PB Blaster action for sure. I crawled underneath and it looks like i actually hit the rear right shock bolt on a rock while wheeling or something in the past... should still turn but i should probably get new ones anyways. Everything looks pretty rust free. I'm a little confused about the shocks and what I believe are little bushings on the top.... just looking at the rear shocks, this is what I see up top.
And this is what a new rear shock looks like.
And it cane with these, two of which Im assuming go at the big bottom bolt, and i guess the other two would be used in place of that bushing looking thing at the top of the old shock?
I guess i would figure it out as i went, but i just want to make sure in case i'm missing something.
Also, if i do break some bolts, where do you guys go for replacements? I've always ordered from the toyota dealer but i dont want to wait for new bolts to show up if i break one. I've tried home depot, lowes, etc before and they dont have much metric stuff.
I have been doing some PB Blaster action for sure. I crawled underneath and it looks like i actually hit the rear right shock bolt on a rock while wheeling or something in the past... should still turn but i should probably get new ones anyways. Everything looks pretty rust free. I'm a little confused about the shocks and what I believe are little bushings on the top.... just looking at the rear shocks, this is what I see up top.
And this is what a new rear shock looks like.
And it cane with these, two of which Im assuming go at the big bottom bolt, and i guess the other two would be used in place of that bushing looking thing at the top of the old shock?
I guess i would figure it out as i went, but i just want to make sure in case i'm missing something.
Also, if i do break some bolts, where do you guys go for replacements? I've always ordered from the toyota dealer but i dont want to wait for new bolts to show up if i break one. I've tried home depot, lowes, etc before and they dont have much metric stuff.
davidp14
SILVER Star
I'm not familiar with that brand shock but there should be a diagram with order of nuts, washers, and bushing installation. one will go into the big "eye" on the bottom. you will need a vise to press it in. helps to add a little grease first. Then really just follow the order of the old one. Note the orientation of the top plate as it only goes in one way.
This is an excellent step by step guide to all things 80 series suspension install:
sleeoffroad.com
This is an excellent step by step guide to all things 80 series suspension install:
OME suspension installation - Slee Off Road
The last thing that most people think of after putting down the dollars for a 80 Series is that they need to replace the suspension. Well, this is the very
sleeoffroad.com
This project can easily be done by yourself in 8 hours. My first suspension overhaul on an 80 was done in nearly exactly that time.
I will add that my BEST ADVICE is to watch the two OTRAMM videos on the install procedure. It will undoubtedly tell you the few simple tricks you will be glad you learned BEFORE tackling the job. Simple advice like the order in which to take things apart. Some are more obvious than others. WATCH THE VIDEOS whether you tackle this in a rented bay or your friends garage. Thank you OTRAMM
I will add that my BEST ADVICE is to watch the two OTRAMM videos on the install procedure. It will undoubtedly tell you the few simple tricks you will be glad you learned BEFORE tackling the job. Simple advice like the order in which to take things apart. Some are more obvious than others. WATCH THE VIDEOS whether you tackle this in a rented bay or your friends garage. Thank you OTRAMM
- Thread starter
- #11
They're OEM Toyota shocks. Looks like the bushings I was wondering about at the top of the shocks were just confusing me because they're so dang old and compressed, it looked different than the new ones. I should be able to reuse the original washers with the new shocks/bushings.I'm not familiar with that brand shock but there should be a diagram with order of nuts, washers, and bushing installation. one will go into the big "eye" on the bottom. you will need a vise to press it in. helps to add a little grease first. Then really just follow the order of the old one. Note the orientation of the top plate as it only goes in one way.
This is an excellent step by step guide to all things 80 series suspension install:
OME suspension installation - Slee Off Road
The last thing that most people think of after putting down the dollars for a 80 Series is that they need to replace the suspension. Well, this is the very
That Slee resource is a goldmine, thank you!!
Great tips and another great resource. Thank you!!
Those are OE Tokico shocks and it looks like you have what you need. There are a few bits you'll have to transfer over from the old shocks but they look OE also so you should be good there and the sizes should all match for the washers/hardware.
You don't have to press in the lower bushings on the rear as they are split and tapered and just fit into the lower eye by hand.
You don't have to press in the lower bushings on the rear as they are split and tapered and just fit into the lower eye by hand.
- Thread starter
- #13
The part about the split bushings - That was my final question!!! Thank you for reading my mind. With the guides i have, all the parts (probably), PB Blaster, a blow torch, and the usual tools, I think I am ready to tackle this... will certainly come back here if I have any struggles.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
soak with half transmission oil/half acetone
USE AN IMPACT GUN ON THE LOWER REAR SHOCK BOLT, DO NOT USE A BREAKER BAR OR ELSE YOU WILL SNAP THE BOLT.
USE AN IMPACT GUN ON THE LOWER REAR SHOCK BOLT, DO NOT USE A BREAKER BAR OR ELSE YOU WILL SNAP THE BOLT.
you should throw this up on the seattle cruiser heads FB page (i assume you are in the greater seattle area), i'm sure quite a few people wouldn't mind standing around drinking beer and throwing out suggestions/orders/handing tools and stuff.
You got excellent suggestions in previous posts. I did mine w/o breaking a bolt. I soaked w/ Liquid Wrench.
Have fun!
If you do it at home, here's a tool I'd recommend
A nut splitter
Instead of wrestling with shock absorber nuts, cut/split them to remove them.
A siezed nut on the shock absorber shaft can be a pain, because there's no effective way to stop the shaft from spinning.
A rattle gun / impact driver is priceless. You'll break less nuts and bolts with one than with a breaker bar.
I'd order new rear lower shock bolts and washers. Never seen a set that isn't munted!
This bolt is one of two that holds the top shock mounting plate in the frame.
Remove the plate and shock together, swap the plate onto the new shock and reinstall as an assembly. You'll need the bottom of the shock free to get to the second bolt easily
A nut splitter
Instead of wrestling with shock absorber nuts, cut/split them to remove them.
A siezed nut on the shock absorber shaft can be a pain, because there's no effective way to stop the shaft from spinning.
A rattle gun / impact driver is priceless. You'll break less nuts and bolts with one than with a breaker bar.
I'd order new rear lower shock bolts and washers. Never seen a set that isn't munted!
This bolt is one of two that holds the top shock mounting plate in the frame.
Remove the plate and shock together, swap the plate onto the new shock and reinstall as an assembly. You'll need the bottom of the shock free to get to the second bolt easily
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And make sure you don't swap the plates side for side or front to back.
- Thread starter
- #19
Just a couple days of PB Blaster soaking, some torch heat, and an impact, and I had all this done in 6-8 hours combined. Used the Slee guide the whole time. Hardest part was the top left shock bolt. Had to run to Home Depot for a 1/2" 17mm socket, swivel socket, and 5" extension for that. Then needed to borrow a pickle fork for the steering stabilizer. But those were the only setbacks. Two of the old shocks were totally blown. Now rides exactly how a Land Cruiser should. Nice and stiff, but good over the bumps and miscellaneous obstacles. Dobinsons variable rate stock height springs + steering stabilizer from Exit Offroad and OEM Toyota shocks from the dealer. Thanks to all who helped.
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Just curious, did you end up using the friend's garage? Or rental shop?
