Engine won't turn off after new alternator. (1 Viewer)

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After upgrading to a newer, internally regulated alternator, the engine continues to run after turning off and removing the key. I can only get it to stop by stalling it in gear or pulling the ign (+) wire off the alternator. Coolerman and Rudi have been helping me with this but in an old thread that a lot of people might not be looking at so I thought I'd start a new thread to catch a larger audience.

More details:
My essentially stock '65 had an alternator in it that was overcharging the battery and eventually cooked it. The only electrical mod that I have found is a pertronix ignitor and coil plus a kill switch wired in the "batt" wire to the ignition switch. Other than the bad battery problems (not holding a charge, etc.) it ran and drove fine for the last 3 years. I replaced the voltage regulator and was still getting >17v while running and after replacing the battery.

Because of my winch and adding continued frustration with the VR, I installed a remanufactured internally regulated 55 amp alternator meant for an '85 FJ60. I wired it up as per coolerman's instructions linked above. After this, my voltage was sitting precisely at 14.3v at 1,200-2,000 RPM and I was stoked that my problem was over until I turned off the ignition and the engine kept running and accessories stayed on. Investigation revealed 0.5v or so coming off the ign (+) spade on the alternator and by disconnecting that, the engine stopped. I though it was a bad diode in the alternator and took it back to NAPA for a return.

The same problem happened with the newest alternator only this time, if I pull the ign (+) to test its voltage, the engine dies (like before) but there is no detectible voltage off the terminal.

I can't seem to find this electrical leak that keeps the thing running. I thought the ignition switch might have somehow gone bad in this process but I've tested that. When the engine is still running and the key is off, there are 0v at the "on" terminal. Also, that kill switch on the batt wire doesn't affect this possessed, mind-of-its-own engine.

Has anyone ever run into this or have any ideas about where else I should look?
 
As a temporary fix you can wire up a kill switch on the positive (+) wire to the coil and install it under the dash.
Is the old external regulator still connected? Maybe it's back feeding to the ignition and by-passing the ignition switch. It also sounds like the old alternator that killed the battery must have fried something else related to the ignition.
 
You're back-feeding from your alternator to the ignition. You can connect a diode in the sensing line to prevent it.
 
Is the old external regulator still connected?
I've removed the old VR and connected the white/red to white/green as per coolerman's directions. I've confirmed that the white/red that comes from the ignition switch has 0v when in the off position.

You're back-feeding from your alternator to the ignition. You can connect a diode in the sensing line to prevent it.
That's what my undergraduate physics mind thought of but I'm unsure what would be a good, safe, reliable option for this. I've never worked with diodes outside the physics lab.
 
The diode will allow current to flow only one way, like a check valve, use alligator clips temporarily to hold in place and test to see if it works, if it works solder in place.
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Re-reading Coolerman's instructions, I wonder if I need to put the white/black from the VR back to ground since I removed the VR. It just hangs there for now.

I'd definitely check that, you can't have dangling wires.
 
Did you do this yet? Next you will crimp on the supplied ring terminal to the White/Black wire and put that under any screw on the alternator EXCEPT the one labeled B+! This is a ground wire.
Do this before entertaining other solutions.
 
Did you do this yet? Next you will crimp on the supplied ring terminal to the White/Black wire and put that under any screw on the alternator EXCEPT the one labeled B+! This is a ground wire.
Do this before entertaining other solutions.
Yup...I've done that and verified there's good ground through that wire.
 
Chime, chime....
Most GM wiring diagrams say 1Amp diode so 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4007, BY127 will do the trick.
They are all 1Amp diodes. The difference is the voltage they can handle but we're talking 12V here so any choice is OK.

Rudi
 
usually that means the wires are backwards at the alternater try switching them and see if it shuts off. if not sounds like its wired wrong only times i have ever had that problem
 
Chime, chime....
Most GM wiring diagrams say 1Amp diode so 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4007, BY127 will do the trick.
They are all 1Amp diodes. The difference is the voltage they can handle but we're talking 12V here so any choice is OK.

Rudi
Thanks Rudi! I'll throw one in line. (+) toward the ignition switch/firewall, right?
 
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Ignition switch -►|- alternator. Close to the terminal on the alternator because somewhere after the ignition key is a splice to the ignition circuit and you want the diode after that splice making sure that the alternator is not back feeding the ignition circuit. Capice?

Rudi
 
And another happy camper Mud member!

Good job :bounce::bounce2:

Rudi
 

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