Engine Woes - Rod Bearings?

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The key to getting it back together is to take lots of pictures from lots of angles, seems like you will always miss one or two that you "wish" you had, but process of elimination will go a long way if you have pics of "most" of it!!
Congrats on the removal, now get some sleep and get that replacement back in the hole!!:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:
 
What! That was the easy part! At least, now I have the benefit of knowing how it supposed to all go back together, right...?
 
Well done! FYI ..the FSM calls for pulling the motor with the transmission. It is a very lengthy procedure - I have great admiration for you!!
 
AJP said:
Well done! FYI ..the FSM calls for pulling the motor with the transmission. It is a very lengthy procedure - I have great admiration for you!!
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If you had the equipment that the factory has (lift, hoist, all the factory tools) that probably wouldn't be that hard...but no way I'd try it in my driveway...just too easy to seperate them.
 
I did not read the rest of the thread so if my comments have already been mentioned, so be it. The problems on damaged journal might have been caused by a failed HG. Water is not so compressible. If the HG failed at cyl5 then that cylinder may have to work very and this may have damaged the journal.

Were I you I would just polish it up and drop a new bearing in and see how long it lasts. I did it once in my 40 but on all journals. I was running too viscous an oil and too little oil for the temp (-45*C) and while I was filling it with gas, the engine seized. It ran for about 40k kms then I sold it. I dont know how long that repair lasted.

Karl
 
I am still uncertain why the bearing spun. I had it for about 1000 miles when it spun. When I checked it out, it showed no exterior leaks from the HG, compression was good, and the PO said the HG was done 70k ago. It did not smoke, and in the 1000 mi I had it, it burned 0 oil. The cause for failure is still a mystery. I pulled the oil pans and mic'd the spun journal and it was egg shaped. The overwhelming consensus was it wouldn't have worked at all to polish and slap another bearing in.
 
Karl, check out the earlier messages. We were hoping for this and hsiaoer was the man for the job, but it was too far gone.

AJP, standard procedure at all auto plants I have ever visited where they are assembling body-on-frame vehicles is to mate engine and transmission, and then put the whole thing in the ladder frame, and then drop the body onto the frame. The engine/trans unit is a lot easier to get at if there is no body in the way. Incidentally, the engine swap procedure for non-start engines (very few in a modern plant) at many plants is to pull the body off and do an engine/trans swap offline in the repair area on the bare frame, then remount the body. It's a nice solution if you have the tools, you are being paid to do it, and five other workers are there to help....
 
hsiaoer, could you, or anyone else who has torn into one of these engines, please estimate the length of the crankshaft and con rod bearings. I'm taking a class on internal combustion engines and I'm doing an analysis on the 1FZ and need those dimensions for what I'm doing. Thanks.
 
Update:

So guess what I've been driving to work this week?

THATS RIGHT! I finished the swap about midnight on Sunday. It's good to have the beast on the road again.

Casualties of war are minor. I dented an a/c hose and have a new one coming, but so for the old one is holding. I also didn't put the bracket that secures the transmission fluid return lines from the dipstick to the top of the tranny. I might do it in the future, do I need to?

To the last post. I have no idea how long the crank is. I didn't take the timing case off or the back side. The journals are just wider than a 1 in. crocus cloth. I'm pretty sure you can find exact specs with little effort.
 
WOOHOO!!!!!! Good job! Congrats!! :beer::beer:

We KNEW you could do it!! :wrench::wrench:

On the tranny lines, the bracket is there to prevent them from vibrating and rubbing a hole in them. I'd make an attempt at getting the bracket back on if I were you. It would probably take quite some time for them to vibrate a hole in them, so you don't have to go out in the rain tonight and do it or anything, but definately keep it on the "to do" list!!
 
And the oil pan on what might be my core motor please!
 
aim said:
My crank ('94 190K mile 1FZFE) is currently on the bench as are my bearings. If you want pictures, drop me a line. My crank looked mirror smooth, as did my bearings. I also am coming to see the wisdom in Snowtire's point #4. I'm currently agonizing over 0.005" taken off my block...
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i have a 1993 with about 220k miles, what size rod bearing and main bearing should i putting back in?

any help highly appreciated.

thanks,

jorge
 
I helped a club member this past weekend who has the same problem. We polished the crank with 400 grit wet paper kept wet with Isopropyl Alcohol. The crank actually cleaned up well. Most of what we saw was Babbitt transfer which looked like heavy scoring.

We used Clevite standard bearing sets for the rods and crank. It goes back together this weekend and we'll see how it goes.
 
landtank said:
I helped a club member this past weekend who has the same problem. We polished the crank with 400 grit wet paper kept wet with Isopropyl Alcohol. The crank actually cleaned up well. Most of what we saw was Babbitt transfer which looked like heavy scoring.

We used Clevite standard bearing sets for the rods and crank. It goes back together this weekend and we'll see how it goes.
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You checking tolerances or just going for the Hail Mary?
 
mostly based on past evaluations. That an the bearings were about 125.00 so it is a shot in the dark but at this point something I wanted to see through.

I'm not a big rework to the Nth degree kind of guy and I have known people to do just this with great results on far less a quality of engine.
 
I put the same size as stock back in...

rods and rear crank bearings were toast, no material transfer to crank. Didn't touch the crank with anything.

That was ~2 years and maybe 10k miles ago. Towed boats, FJ40, etc since then. No probs.
 
CruisinGA said:
I put the same size as stock back in...

rods and rear crank bearings were toast, no material transfer to crank. Didn't touch the crank with anything.

That was ~2 years and maybe 10k miles ago. Towed boats, FJ40, etc since then. No probs.
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I would have never guessed that was possible...that's pretty impressive, and great to know you can do an in-chassis engine rebuild and have it turn out pretty good.
 
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