Engine surges when shifting into gear & Misfiring Cylinder? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Threads
77
Messages
1,152
Location
The Land of Frank Rizzo
Ol' girl has about 310K on the odometer and she is behaving in an abby-normal manner.

Recently, when cold, and the engine is at high idle so to speak, and I wait for her to settle down to a normal idle, once that happens I shift from Park to Drive. Once I do that the RPM surges to and the truck slams into gear. This is only happens when its cold and it's basically the first start of the day.

I scanned for codes and nothing came up.

Lemme know what you think and I'll start the troubleshooting!

The second problem that has surfaced is also a cold to warm car issue. When driving down the road, either straight and level of going up an incline at about 1500 RPMs I am getting what feels like she's missing, stuttering or a misfiring. This condition will last for a very short period (less than 1 minute) of time and then never surface again until the next day. I had a misfire before and it was the #7 coil as determined by the code scanning tool. That took all of 20 minutes to swap out. I thought it was the same thing, because it feels EXACTLY THE SAME but the scan tool is showing no codes. I scanned while driving, while parked and at the end of the day and the tool is not picking up anything.
 
2009 with 300k miles is good.
Have you changed the fluid in the trans at all? When did you have the misfire at #7 coil?
Do you see any dried pink fluid top or under the engine? How old is the battery?
 
If the slam into gear was repeatable going drive-park-reverse I’d be looking at a bad u joint or transmission or engine mount… or maybe a bad parking pawl but you have to open the transmission to check that.. anyway something moving around that shouldn’t. But happening only once is odd, especially if going into park and back doesn’t cause it.
 
I hate to say it but....it's the original transmission fluid. Yes, I know, it should have been addressed many years ago but once you get to a certain point, and I am well beyond that point, the saying is keep the fluid in there or else you will have transmission issues. The transmission is as tight as it was as the day I first drove her so I do not necessarily have concerns about that department. If I hammer down her to pass she's all there and then some. Her towing duties are limited to a waverunner trailer.

The problem isn't the neutral banger that the truck does when she is cold, the problem is the RPM spiking to 2000 RPMs when I move the shifter from Park to Drive causing the neutral banger.

The #7 coil failed in the spring of 2023 and that's about it for the coils. On my 100 Series every single coil eventually failed, at the end of that ownership experience I could swap a coil within 15 minutes. I always carried a spare in the glovebox along with Actron scanner.

Battery was replaced this fall and these is no / are no leaks anywhere around the vehicle. I am going to throw her on a lift later this morning and change the oil. I will hit the driveshaft u-joints with some grease and inspect for things that look out of place.

Part of me thinks the high-idle that happens when I shift it into gear could be a MAF sensor issue???

That misfiring issue is no doubt going to be a coil, I just do not know why the code has not popped in the ECU as an actual misfire or pending code.
 
Double check that the intake hose between the airbox and throttle body is tight on both ends and doesn't have any cracks. If a crack opens up when the engine shifts slightly as you put it into gear it can throw off the actual vs reported air metering into the engine and cause weird issues.
 
I will check that out first thing tomorrow morning!
 
+1 for the MAF cleaning, throttle body inspection for leaks (and cleaning) and new PCV valve. I also disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset transmission learned values and I think there is a learned value related to MAF/throttle position as well which helps after cleaning all that stuff. You can check on the scan tool if the power shoots up / throttle input changes etc when shifting into drive as well. This is where logging some PIDS may come in handy in OBDFusion or whatever you're using.
 
PCV was squared away about 100K ago, so that may be a player, although when I finally located it and pulled it out it seemed like it was still good to go meaning that valve sit rattled when I shook it. Getting a new PCV installed is about a 10 minute job and I will get on that this weekend.

I will disconnect the battery when I perform the under hood inspection and PCV replacement.

It is an unusual problem, I drove her 140 miles yesterday and the only anomaly was when I cold started her first thing in the morning. She did the neutral slam and that was if for the day, mind you it was 32 degrees yesterday and not too terribly cold by any standards...

Thanks for all of the support on this one!
 
Finally got around to getting under the hood. I checked the PCV valve and it was not clogged, I checked the hose between the intake box and the MAF, it was properly secured with no holes our leakage. I did not have a chance to disconnect the battery but I will look in to that option shortly.

What has happen since my last check in was that the #2 coil had a hard failure and thankfully I had the scan tool in the front seat because, while driving, I was able to connect and scan the code. Every time that coil failed and I have shutoff the engine the code would disappear.

I contacted EB Bosch and had a coil sent to me. It was 10 minute install and thus far there has not been any relapses of the high idle. I will continue to monitor and report back, I am not sure that this really fixed, I could be the "placebo effect" although it has not did the high idle neutral banger.

More to follow -
 
Any luck getting to the bottom of hard shift from park when its cold? Im experiencing something very similar.

2008 with 195k here.
 
Mine does the same when the weather is cold. It doesn't do it if I let it warm up for a few minutes.
 
.
 
Last edited:
EB Boch now called Nucar is were I get all my oem parts from also. I'm in CT and I can say that the hard shift with high idle is always present 1st thing on a cold morning. Never a issue in the warmer months.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom