With all the different opinions from forum members - is it possible just to get a straight answer with what engine oil weight to use in my 96 LX450? I want to change my oil today and would like to change to synthetic - but have read from some cruiser members how they have experienced oil leakage after switching to synthetic from regular oil. What is the general consensis on this?? Am I better off sticking to my dealer recommended 5w-30 regular oil? A lot of members say 20w-50 is the best you can use! - I'd like to try synthetic = but am leary to if it does cause oil leaking problems. My LX has 121,000 miles on it and currently is leak-free of any fluids anywhere. Thanks alot to all who can help me and hopefully end my confusion!! - Tim
Engine Oil Confusion??? on my LX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter the magnetguy
- Start date
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the magnetguy said:
Tim,
I would not recommend 20w-50 for your location (especially in the winter). If you currently have no leaks, then you (probably) won't experience any when changing to synthetic. If you do, give it a little time for the additives to swell the seals.
You will get many opinions on which synthetic is best. Synthetic oils hold up better than regular oil, and you may be able to go longer between oil changes.
IMO....if your vehicle does not see severe duty, extreme heat conditions, or infrequent oil changes....then there is no "need" for synthetic.
If you do change, keep the viscosity (weight) of the oil as close to the original specs. as possible. Exceptions being: Vehicle operates in extreme heat, vehicle has continuous leaking with lower viscosity.
Cheers.
FlintKnapper has given you good advice.
You definitely do not want to go 20w-50 that far north.
I am in north carolina and usually use 10-30 or 10-40 because we have milder winters and hotter summers.
I switched to syn at 130K when I bought it and leaked. Also you will need to do a relatively short interval with the syn because it will break down the dino oil varnish. You will want to change that out after a 2-3K max.
Personnally, I do not think syn is needed in these engines.
Stick with 5w-30 up there
You definitely do not want to go 20w-50 that far north.
I am in north carolina and usually use 10-30 or 10-40 because we have milder winters and hotter summers.
I switched to syn at 130K when I bought it and leaked. Also you will need to do a relatively short interval with the syn because it will break down the dino oil varnish. You will want to change that out after a 2-3K max.
Personnally, I do not think syn is needed in these engines.
Stick with 5w-30 up there
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Up in the frozen north, I think the Mobil1 0w-40 would be the best choice overall. You could run the same oil summer and winter, and as evidenced by oil analysis, gives great results in 80 series trucks. If you are not leaking now, the Mobil1 will not cause leaks. Don't sweat it.
I must admit, I wouldn't go near conventional oil in Canada, in the winter.
I must admit, I wouldn't go near conventional oil in Canada, in the winter.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks For Your Advice!!
Flintknapper - Appreciate your advice!! - my trck doesn't see severe duty or extreme heat so guess I will stick to recommended factory 5w-30 oil. - Timflintknapper said:
I run redline 5-30W, only because I found it on sale for $6 a qt last March and stocked up. I was running to 0-40W that Cary recommended. When I switched, I notced a leak at my Valve cover and replaced the gasket with no further issues.
Cary,
I know you are the resident oil expert so I have to ask. Sorry to highjack.
It would seem to be that they could not call Valvoline maxlife "Synthetic" if it is a group III hydrocracked oil. I would think anything that says synthetic would be a Group IV PAO syn.
By the way this is the first time I have seen reference to groupIII or IV and do not know.
Please enlighten me.
I know you are the resident oil expert so I have to ask. Sorry to highjack.
It would seem to be that they could not call Valvoline maxlife "Synthetic" if it is a group III hydrocracked oil. I would think anything that says synthetic would be a Group IV PAO syn.
By the way this is the first time I have seen reference to groupIII or IV and do not know.
Please enlighten me.
Do a search, it has been covered extensively. In short, Group III oils are much cheaper to produce. In Europe, they cannot be called synthetics. Here due to a commission ruling between Castrol and Mobil (castrol went to Group III and Mobil called them on it), it can be called a Synthetic. Shortly after that ruling, all the major oil manufactures, with the exception of Mobil started using Group III hydrocracked instead of PAO because it was cheaper and the profit margins higher.
cary said:
Really great stuff....at $2/qt. I bought 100 quarts from Autozone at that price.
Group III at $2 is a great deal, but I would not pay the $4.79 I normally see it selling for. Not when you can get 5W-40 Rotella for under $13/gallon.
Cary, Do you still feel that 0-40wt is the best choice every with the extreme temp we see in Arizona (115 degree plus). I question Blackstone about it and they really didnt take a side but did say I could move to 15-40 if I wanted in the summer.
Thanks
Thanks
There really is no need to go to 15w-50 unless you have a blower or turbo and are running it hard in those temps. It is commonenly accepted that the heavier oil doesn't transfer heat as well and will cause the engine to run hotter. That said, in your climate, it won't hurt anything. I would recommend the 0w-40, or if you have consumption issues, the 5w40 Truck and SUV. If you can find it, the new Mobil 1 EP 10w-40 may be the best of all.
I started using MObil 1 10-30 synthetic when i had 100k on the odo. Im at 130k with no leaks or problems. I still change it every 3k. You can get the stuff cheap at Costco.
My understanding is that the 5000 is a Mineral and Group III oil, the 7500 mostly group III and the 15000 is a Group IV. The 15000 is what you would commonly think of Mobil 1. Note that some of the Mobil 1 synth oils such as the 0w-40 and 5w-40 are also full synths, but haven't been incorporated under the new marketing method. There are issues concerning the new GF-4 and SM oil standards requiring lower antiwear additives to preserve cat converter life. Mobil with the 15,000 miles appears to be putting wear first as it is staying with the SL rating. Check bobistheoilguy for many discussions on this.
Cary
Cary
I used to live in the frozen north, and highly recommend a synthetic oil for people with extreme winters. I currently am running 20W50 Mobil 1 for the last two years. My highway mileage improved and cold starts seem easier on the engine. I live in Dallas now with hot summers so the higher 50 weight seems fine for summer. One thing that I don't understand is why people used to run straight 30 weight oil in winter and a 40 weight in summer. A 20W50 should behave like a 20 weight oil when cold and that's extremely thin. It should perform like a 50 weight oil when hot and that's extremely thick. A 0W40 should be same at operating temps as a 10W40. Yes it would be thinner when cold but why would you ever need an oil to be only a 0 weight? I do know that running a 5W30 will give better mileage than a 20W50 in my rig and I have heard that's why the US lists it as recommended oil for most newer vehicles. It's recommended most for our Cruisers by dealers, but other guys like in Australia say there vehicle's don't recommend oil that thin. Hmmm?? MPG vs. wear and tear protection on engine?? I vote Synthetic for sure for anyone in Canada.
