engine is knocking - now what to do? (1 Viewer)

[rickey_ersheim]

It is confirmed that the engine on my 80 has developed a knock. It is at a healthy 241 thousand miles - what is the path of least financial resistance? Find a donor engine and tranny and swap or rebuild? Thanks for the help. I am located in the SF Bay Area, any good referrences for this kind of work?

 

[Volunteer]

It is confirmed that the engine on my 80 has developed a knock. It is at a healthy 241 thousand miles - what is the path of least financial resistance? Find a donor engine and tranny and swap or rebuild? Thanks for the help. I am located in the SF Bay Area, any good referrences for this kind of work?

Personally I'd source a donor motor with lower mileage and swap it in. Less labor than a rebuild. Part out your current motor after the swap or rebuild for a spare

 

[CID 96]

I am kinda going thru the same thing with the 2F in my 40. One argument that has been made to me is that at least if you build it you will know exactly what you have got and while it would be more expensive to build the little bit more money my be worth that piece of mind. Just my 2 cents.

 

[wfd175]

It is confirmed that the engine on my 80 has developed a knock. It is at a healthy 241 thousand miles - what is the path of least financial resistance? Find a donor engine and tranny and swap or rebuild? Thanks for the help. I am located in the SF Bay Area, any good referrences for this kind of work?

Are you certain you havn't developed some ultra cheap blendo fuel knock, or you're having a timing or spark issue. I'd eliminate the obvious prior to looking for a new engine.

 

[slow91fj90]

Check the classified section, people are always selling good motors, plug and play. Good luck

 

[rickey_ersheim]

I lay under the rig after a fresh oil change. I was recommended switching to at least 15-40 weight, and I could still hear it. I also hear a humming noise almost like a worn bearing hum when underneath the rig. The rig has been put through its paces so I am happy with the service it provided. I did take it to one toyota service shop while picking up a filter for the oil and they offered to diagnose for $150 but I think maybe best to just swap at this age. If I do swap, being a 93 motor - can I swap in any year between 93 and 97 or are there minute differences in model years for the powerplant hookup? Thanks for the helpful comments and it is a tough decision.

 

[NaterGator]

Does it sound like this, by chance?
http://nate-online.com/knocking.mp3

 

[rickey_ersheim]

actuall surprisingly similar to the mp3 - it is difficult to say exactly but very similar. what does that mean in terms of the problem?

 

[Beowulf]

If I do swap, being a 93 motor - can I swap in any year between 93 and 97 or are there minute differences in model years for the powerplant hookup? Thanks for the helpful comments and it is a tough decision.

The general groupings would be:
92-92 = 3FE
93-94 = 1FZ-FE (pre-OBDII)
95 = 1FZ-FE (OBD)
96-97 - 1FZ-FE (full OBD-II)

I would try to stay in the same family. There is a guy here on the board in Indiana that is selling the full drive train from a low mileage 1994 (~43k) that he could not get clear title. You should jump on that.

-B-

 

[slow91fj90]

Sure you dont have one of those imported diesels?

 

[NaterGator]

actuall surprisingly similar to the mp3 - it is difficult to say exactly but very similar. what does that mean in terms of the problem?

In my case it turned out to be nothing more than the crank smacking into a pool of oil at just the right angle. I'd get a mechanic's stethoscope out and see if you can pinpoint the location a bit better.

Before you get to swapping the motor why not pull the pans off and have a look at the bottom end?

 

[D'Animal]

Check the classified section, people are always selling good motors, plug and play. Good luck

Have a link to that?

 

[lowbanks]

In my case it turned out to be nothing more than the crank smacking into a pool of oil at just the right angle. I'd get a mechanic's stethoscope out and see if you can pinpoint the location a bit better.

Before you get to swapping the motor why not pull the pans off and have a look at the bottom end?

Even with a slight incline to the front, i've noticed that knocking sound right in the oil pan.
On very level or with the nose slightly raised, no noise.
I know this issue has been discussed here several times.

Try to listen for the noise at different inclines. If noise always present then you have a real knocking problem, otherwise just keep driving.