For oil testing..
ALS Global (Australia)
O: +61 2 8786 3150
D: +61 2 8786 3152
michael.smedley@alsglobal.com
Unit 2/171-175 Newton Road
Wetherill Park NSW 2164
alsglobal.com
Engine got a bit hot. Now Coolant on top of radiator
- Thread starter jeanbono
- Start date
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ALS Global (Australia)
O: +61 2 8786 3150
D: +61 2 8786 3152
michael.smedley@alsglobal.com
Unit 2/171-175 Newton Road
Wetherill Park NSW 2164
alsglobal.com
My test was done overnight to check the integrity of the cooling system and whether it can hold pressure. While the head gasket is technically part of that system, this type of test won’t always pick up a small or temperature-dependent breach. In some cases, a minor head gasket leak only opens up when the engine is fully hot and under load, due to thermal expansion and higher combustion pressures. Since a pressure test is done with the engine cold, it may not reveal those kinds of issues, even if done overnight. Usually 30mins is enough, but if time affords it, you can leave it a bit longer. Overnight is probably overkill.
- Thread starter
- #63
really appreciate the help. that pressure testing kit i got (80 bucks) seems really good can't wait to give it a crack after work, i reckon I might pressure test any car I buy in the future haha. It's the same ones they sell at Auto shops etc for 200 bucks, all from China and they just stamp a random brand on top of it then sell it 2.5 times the price.
Have you checked your spark plugs btw? I was told this was one of the best ways to check for bad HG signs.
Have you checked your spark plugs btw? I was told this was one of the best ways to check for bad HG signs.
yep, first thing I did. All plugs are good, no signs of wetness and all plugs looked the same, no individual clean plug or two. I literally don't have any other symptom except for coolant loss from the overflow (which may have stabilised). I really need to drive the car more to see if the initial loss was just the system burping air. I also need to do a follow up oil sample in 1000km to see if the potassium drops down now that I've disabled the valvesaver.
Normally an oil analysis of a vehicle with a head gasket breach would show sodium AND potassium.. and sometimes water and glycol.. I only had super high levels of potassium, which is why the valvesaver is still a plausible culprit.
Let us know how your pressure test goes. 30 minutes should suffice. It's sometimes really hard to see a small coolant leak. I did a pressure test a couple of years ago, as I was losing coolant, and found the tinniest leak coming from my heater tap valve.. I only just caught a drip out of the corner of my eye. It was slow but it was the source. Also, you may have multiple sources, so systematically work your way right around the engine, tracing all the coolant lines, heater hoses, radiator hoses, water pump, thermostat housing, pesky heater hose, radiator joins, etc etc etc. There's so many potential sources.
I just can't remember if it's best to do with the heater tap open or closed, I'd assume open to also test the integrity of the heater core and lines running through the firewall.
- Thread starter
- #65
Haha it shows how strong the 1FZFE engine is, if it was a crap engine it would be much easier to confirm potential issues, right?
Yeah I've already spent 20mn under and on top of the engine bay the other day, I can prob draw the cooling system with my eyes closed, will wait for nigh time I find it much easier to see coolant with a powerful torch, and hopefully I'll hear a hiss or feel some wetness somewhere which is not something you can do when the engine is running. Keep us posted too on your findings, still driving the truck everyday with no second thoughts in the meantime.
Yeah I've already spent 20mn under and on top of the engine bay the other day, I can prob draw the cooling system with my eyes closed, will wait for nigh time I find it much easier to see coolant with a powerful torch, and hopefully I'll hear a hiss or feel some wetness somewhere which is not something you can do when the engine is running. Keep us posted too on your findings, still driving the truck everyday with no second thoughts in the meantime.
my radiator has always stayed full, so there's no chance of it overheating due to coolant loss.. I assume yours is the same. Definitely keep driving it... I've got a 300km round trip to do on the weekend. Might take the cruiser to get some kms and heat cycles under it's belt.
why would you be filling coolant? you're just pressurising the system with the pump. No need to bleed air if the system is already filled with coolant and has been bled before.
- Thread starter
- #69
gotcha, bit of a dumb question I thought because I was introducing air into the system by pumping it up. Thanks mate.
I live in my 80 so every decision is important haha
No judgement, better to be sure then sorry. Also, that's how you learn, by asking questions. None of us are born with all the answers. Let us know how it goes.
- Thread starter
- #71
FYI when I asked Toyota and got quoted $270 for a piece of plastic bottle both the bloke at the Toyota counter and I laughed bc of how hilarious that was, still happy I changed my overflow bottle last week though (found cheaper on line $150), have no idea how my coolant stayed so clean between changes looking at all the crap I found in that bottle. (The cap and hose was defective as well so just bought the all kit as lazy to spend more time looking for individual parts which did not seem to exist). I will remember to wash it at every coolant flush in the future…
- Thread starter
- #72
Update: good news, pressure tested the system, started holding 13 psi for a while then started to very slowly go down to 12, I was looking everywhere over and under the car and started to lose hope, then it started dripping from the T at the back! Never been so happy to find coolant dripping. I had looked around there so many times but it apparently takes more than an engine idling to show up. Anyone knows that hose part number please? Edit: it looks to be 87245C. Also checked PHH and it’s fine (3rd pic). Absolutely stoked.
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Looks like the heater control valve to me ?
In any case if your going to replace that hose you better get the valve because chances are the valve will break when you try to remove the hose
In any case if your going to replace that hose you better get the valve because chances are the valve will break when you try to remove the hose
^^^ Agree ^^^
The side pipe(s) where the hoses attach to the heat control valve may be ready to snap off, which is common after 25+ years exposure to coolant/heat. The plastic side pipes coming off the heat control valve deteriorate under the hose (what you can't see) and become brittle before they fail, often without warning. The hose and "sardine can" clamps all look original so it's likely time to replace the heat control valve and a few hoses in that area either way.
For that repair, IMHO, use Toyota or Denso for the heat control valve, Toyota or Gates GreenStripe 5/8" heater hose if you can find that in Oz. Go with Toyota clamps (spring type, not the original sardine can type) or a Constant Torque Clamps like the BREESE Clamps.
The PHH appears to have already been replaced (aftermarket hose clamp).
To find all the part numbers for your model (no rear heater?) plug your VIN into Partsouq
go to Groups, then look for Heater and Air conditioning, then Hoses and Pipes:
Enter your VIN here:
partsouq.com
Example (for LHD):
The side pipe(s) where the hoses attach to the heat control valve may be ready to snap off, which is common after 25+ years exposure to coolant/heat. The plastic side pipes coming off the heat control valve deteriorate under the hose (what you can't see) and become brittle before they fail, often without warning. The hose and "sardine can" clamps all look original so it's likely time to replace the heat control valve and a few hoses in that area either way.
For that repair, IMHO, use Toyota or Denso for the heat control valve, Toyota or Gates GreenStripe 5/8" heater hose if you can find that in Oz. Go with Toyota clamps (spring type, not the original sardine can type) or a Constant Torque Clamps like the BREESE Clamps.
The PHH appears to have already been replaced (aftermarket hose clamp).
To find all the part numbers for your model (no rear heater?) plug your VIN into Partsouq
go to Groups, then look for Heater and Air conditioning, then Hoses and Pipes:
Enter your VIN here:
Toyota | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq
Are you looking for reliable Toyota parts? Then go to our online store and use auto parts catalogs or speed up your search by entering the part number!
Example (for LHD):
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exactly what was leaking on mine! I had no idea my heater control valve was leaking until I saw the drip out of the corner of my eye when I had 15psi pumped into the system. Good pick up!
Hose = 99556-30100
Spring clamps to suit = 96134-42100
Heater control valve = 87240-60130
Spring clamps to suit = 96134-42100
Heater control valve = 87240-60130
- Thread starter
- #79
No way! yeah, I almost gave up...20mn looking everywhere, that valve is right at the back/middle of a particularly high and long engine bay, had to pull my tactical torch to spot it. Replace, re-pressure test, hopefully happy days then.