Engine cuts out during rapid steering left to right.

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1995cruiser

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Feb 23, 2020
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I have a 1995 landcruiser with an 1996 4.5L 200k. when I first bought it in the first week driving it I found it had this issue of engine cutting out almost seemed fuel related while hard turning left or right. I have been working on the truck for a year now getting rid of all the oil leaks and lots of other mechanical issues fixed. If you drive it straight down a road about 25mph and whip the steering wheel left to right hard creating heavy body roll it starts cutting out almost acting like it was carbureted or something. It has happened a few timed wheeling as well. Another new problem is I never knew if the gas gauge was accurate. So I threw a gas can in the back and drove it till on empty then went to the gas station and observed how many gallons it took to fill. It took 21 gallons and the needle never came back up off of E after filling. Still that way as of 2 days ago. Tried banging on the tank with a rubber mallet. Removed the tank inspection cover removed the Molex plug it was clean applied dielectric grease and snapped back together also and tapping the top of the tank as well. I have researched tank size for that truck on a couple of websites they were saying 24 gallons and another said 25.1 gallons.
Got any ideas.
 
The fuel level tends to be inaccurate, you can remove it from the tank - pop the cover off and clean the grime off the fins. The float itself tweaked but you might notice that when you pull it out.

im not sure about the cutting out, unless you have a cracked hose that creates an air suction when doing that body roll - thats all i can think of, maybe someone else will have that knowledge.

your pump should be sitting all the way at the bottom of the tank which you'd notice when you remove the inspection cover and then the plate on the top of the tank.. also a full or nearly full tank is less combustible than an empty one, so when I pull my pump out - im sure to have more than 1/2 gallon. Fuel VAPOR is highly flammable oppose to fuel in its liquid state.

Please be careful when doing this - if you dont know what you are doing and arent safe - its extremely dangerous. If you arent comfortable then take it to someone who is....
 
The stock fuel tank is 25 gallons.

There is a fuel level light that lights when the level is APPROXIMATELY 5 gallons. The needle may actually be at or below "E" at this point.

I would guess that you have an intake tube or a vacuum leak that is occurring with this sort of L/R movement unless you wiring harness by the EGR is being a problem, causing electrical interruption to the injectors or the power to the engine.
 
The stock fuel tank is 25 gallons.

There is a fuel level light that lights when the level is APPROXIMATELY 5 gallons. The needle may actually be at or below "E" at this point.

I would guess that you have an intake tube or a vacuum leak that is occurring with this sort of L/R movement unless you wiring harness by the EGR is being a problem, causing electrical interruption to the injectors or the power to the engine.
My light never came on but that makes since it was probably going to come on if I went further before gas up. What do you think about the gauge sitting on E after being filled up? Thanks for the reply The plug you speak of it is by the EGR?
 
The stock fuel tank is 25 gallons.

There is a fuel level light that lights when the level is APPROXIMATELY 5 gallons. The needle may actually be at or below "E" at this point.

I would guess that you have an intake tube or a vacuum leak that is occurring with this sort of L/R movement unless you wiring harness by the EGR is being a problem, causing electrical interruption to the injectors or the power to the engine.
So I must of had 4 gallons left. So this happening to the gauge maybe it is stuck down right. I will carefully remove it and maybe like you say could be gunked up. Do you know if the 95 had a power steering pressure switch?
 
So I must of had 4 gallons left. So this happening to the gauge maybe it is stuck down right. I will carefully remove it and maybe like you say could be gunked up. Do you know if the 95 had a power steering pressure switch?
There is no Power Steering Pressure Switch. I'm not sure why this question.

The PS pump is gear driven directly from the oil pump gear on the front of the engine.

If you PS is not whining or growling, it's not a problem.

The motion of L/R would indicate to me that there is a flexible part that is moving, causing issues such as a wiring harness or vacuum line.

The fuel pump / level sensor assembly could be gunked up and need cleaning. get a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from the "references" section above and look at pulling the fuel pump assembly, with possible replacement.

My truck tends to "spit out" non-Toyota parts other than brake rotors, but the quality of parts used makes a difference.

Also check battery cables, spark plug wires, and connections under the hood.

When my fuel light comes on, I have 3 gallons left and the needle is below the E. My tank is EXACTLY 25.0 gallons from being empty (ran out going to the pump) to being as full as I could get it.

If you're not getting a low fuel light, your pump wiring could be corroded or not properly connected.
 
Check your motor mounts. And as others have mentioned, check your intake tube(inbetween the air filter and motor) for cracks, look close at the bottom of the tube. And also check the wiring harness next to the egr.
 
I'd mention a couple of things:

1. Spend a few bucks and get a battery disconnect widget that lets you disconnect the battery just by unscrewing a knob. I'm constantly disconnecting the battery, especially when dealing with anything electrical or fuel-related.
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2. I had a devil of a time with my 1993 80 seemingly stalling out when going uphill. It turned out to be a faulty connection to the throttle body. These are pretty old trucks at this point and often have been fiddled with and the connectors come loose or were not properly repaired. Have a close look and tug a little on anything related to the EFI. Might reveal something.

Are you getting a Check Engine Light when the truck stalls?

Hope you find the culprit soon!
 
I'd mention a couple of things:

1. Spend a few bucks and get a battery disconnect widget that lets you disconnect the battery just by unscrewing a knob. I'm constantly disconnecting the battery, especially when dealing with anything electrical or fuel-related.
View attachment 2657067

2. I had a devil of a time with my 1993 80 seemingly stalling out when going uphill. It turned out to be a faulty connection to the throttle body. These are pretty old trucks at this point and often have been fiddled with and the connectors come loose or were not properly repaired. Have a close look and tug a little on anything related to the EFI. Might reveal something.

Are you getting a Check Engine Light when the truck stalls?

Hope you find the culprit soon!
I have battery disconnects The harness by the egr is baked hard. It looks like the guy that I got it from wraped that harness with some heat tape of sort.
Check your motor mounts. And as others have mentioned, check your intake tube(inbetween the air filter and motor) for cracks, look close at the bottom of the tube. And also check the wiring harness next to the egr.
Motor mounts are solid and I pushed smoke up the intake tube after the MAF and the only smoke that was coming out of the egr modulator.
 
There is no Power Steering Pressure Switch. I'm not sure why this question.

The PS pump is gear driven directly from the oil pump gear on the front of the engine.

If you PS is not whining or growling, it's not a problem.

The motion of L/R would indicate to me that there is a flexible part that is moving, causing issues such as a wiring harness or vacuum line.

The fuel pump / level sensor assembly could be gunked up and need cleaning. get a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from the "references" section above and look at pulling the fuel pump assembly, with possible replacement.

My truck tends to "spit out" non-Toyota parts other than brake rotors, but the quality of parts used makes a difference.

Also check battery cables, spark plug wires, and connections under the hood.

When my fuel light comes on, I have 3 gallons left and the needle is below the E. My tank is EXACTLY 25.0 gallons from being empty (ran out going to the pump) to being as full as I could get it.

If you're not getting a low fuel light, your pump wiring could be corroded or not properly connected.
Some years did and it goes to the ECU and changes idle when hi demand for power steering and said when malfunction it could make your engine cut out. That was something I read on an 1998 landcruiser. I'm looking to get rid of that EGR tube it is baking a wire harness up by the EGR. on the gas gauge thing I will pull the sending unit out and see if I can manually move it to see if gauge changes atall. So i put smoke up stream of the MAF and the only leaks im seeing are at the EGR modulator out of the cap that has filter material in it. I would like to take all this off because someone before has unplugged the EGR and wired a resistor across the electrical connector. I would like to take the tube out.
 
I'd mention a couple of things:

1. Spend a few bucks and get a battery disconnect widget that lets you disconnect the battery just by unscrewing a knob. I'm constantly disconnecting the battery, especially when dealing with anything electrical or fuel-related.
View attachment 2657067

2. I had a devil of a time with my 1993 80 seemingly stalling out when going uphill. It turned out to be a faulty connection to the throttle body. These are pretty old trucks at this point and often have been fiddled with and the connectors come loose or were not properly repaired. Have a close look and tug a little on anything related to the EFI. Might reveal something.

Are you getting a Check Engine Light when the truck stalls?

Hope you find the culprit soon!
No engine light. And id does not stall just cuts' out until I stop hard swerving left and right.
 
That was something I read on an 1998 landcruiser.
A 98 landcruiser basiclly has nothing in common with 91-97 landcruisers other than the name. A 98 is a completely different model called a 100series.
 
This sounds electrical to me.
Body flexes on frame mounts, engine/transmission/transfer all move on frame. You're looking for an intermittent electrical connection caused by mechanical movement.
First thing that comes to mind are the fusible links off the positive battery terminal. Next would be the harness by the EGR tube. Those 2 are the low hanging fruit on an FZJ80.
Look for easy things first like a lose terminal in a fuse block.

There is a harness off the ECU that makes a sharp bend and rests on the support for the glovebox. That can be a trouble spot.
There is a connector for the fuel pump under the body by the left side C-pillar. It is subject to corrosion due to its location.

Looking for intermittents like this can be frustrating, Percussive diagnostics and patience is your friend.
 
This sounds electrical to me.
Body flexes on frame mounts, engine/transmission/transfer all move on frame. You're looking for an intermittent electrical connection caused by mechanical movement.
First thing that comes to mind are the fusible links off the positive battery terminal. Next would be the harness by the EGR tube. Those 2 are the low hanging fruit on an FZJ80.
Look for easy things first like a lose terminal in a fuse block.

There is a harness off the ECU that makes a sharp bend and rests on the support for the glovebox. That can be a trouble spot.
There is a connector for the fuel pump under the body by the left side C-pillar. It is subject to corrosion due to its location.

Looking for intermittents like this can be frustrating, Percussive diagnostics and patience is your friend.
Thank you I got the gas gauge to work. One of the guys said to remove the sending unit and clean the wire wound resistor and he hit it right on the head. I cleaned it wasn't real dirty but the wiper was not pushing enough pressure on the wire so I bent the stop float tab out of the way and gently tweaked the wiper toward the windings and reassembled and it as fit as a fiddle oh and my gas light works too. I never got it below 1/4 tank ever so when that thing shows empty I still have 4 gallons left in the tank. Oh thanks for the tips I will get that sputter figured out by starting to look at the harness locations you speak of. I will let you know what happens. That box in the glove box was unplugged and I think it was purposely done. It runs a little rich thoe. Im going to be installing a wide band meter for air fuel. The truck already has an scan gauge II in it. Do you have any recommendations for the wide band meter.
 
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The motion of L/R would indicate to me that there is a flexible part that is moving, causing issues such as a wiring harness or vacuum line.
...
Worn/broken motor mount?
 
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That box in the glove box was unplugged and I think it was purposely done.
We're not talking about the same thing. I'm referring to the ECU harness. The ECU is mounted behind and above the glovebox. It has 4 connectors that run down and across the lower glovebox support. If it was unplugged, the engine would not run.
 
Jonheld When I got my truck all that stuff was unplugged and how I found it was the front door switches would not activate the dome light in the rear and the front dome light had no power at all. I got in the manual and troubleshot it down to the wiring you speak about and I ended up in the glove box to the right I found the plugs detached from a box. I plugged them back in and all dome lights worked. The truck has had a lot of modifications I'm am finding them every time I tear into something that don't work. Oh the rear door switches do not activate any dome lights and the electric door locks wireless or manual do nothing. Oh and my truck is a 95 and they put a 96 motor in it.
 
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And once again, we are not talking about the same harness. ECU=engine control unit. If it was unplugged the engine would not run. Has zero to do with dome lights.
If the original 1995 engine was OBD2, then 1995-1997 are identical.
 

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