Engine cuts out during rapid steering left to right. (1 Viewer)

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I agree with the others that suspect this could be an electrical issue. The cooked harness near the EGR should be looked at and repaired. Also would not surprise me at all to see a cracked air intake tube. I'd also check the main engine ground wire.
 
There is a connector for the fuel pump under the body by the left side C-pillar. It is subject to corrosion due to its location.

I s this location you speak of in other reply fuel pump wiring is it on drider side of rear driver door pillar?
 
Thank you I got the gas gauge to work. One of the guys said to remove the sending unit and clean the wire wound resistor and he hit it right on the head. I cleaned it wasn't real dirty but the wiper was not pushing enough pressure on the wire so I bent the stop float tab out of the way and gently tweaked the wiper toward the windings and reassembled and it as fit as a fiddle oh and my gas light works too. I never got it below 1/4 tank ever so when that thing shows empty I still have 4 gallons left in the tank. Oh thanks for the tips I will get that sputter figured out by starting to look at the harness locations you speak of. I will let you know what happens. That box in the glove box was unplugged and I think it was purposely done. It runs a little rich thoe. Im going to be installing a wide band meter for air fuel. The truck already has an scan gauge II in it. Do you have any recommendations for the wide band meter.

Worn/broken motor mount?
So I replaced the motor mounts because they looked old and I did the put it in drive brakes on bumping it forward and reverse there was little movement so I changed out the motor mounts. When I got them out one did delaminate a little. I removed that dam EGR tube and made plates for the intake and the driver side of the head. Her is a picture of up on the motor to where the main cable looks kind of cooked and I think you said also check the fusible links I have attached pictures. Back in the day when I added dual battery's i did redo the fusible link connections. I also found the fuel pump plug someone was talking about under the c pillar and pulled it and cleaned and greased up and reinstalled it. I will test drive it in a bit to see if the problem still exists. I guess the glove box connections next. I didn't want to do to much as to not know what fixed it.

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I'd mention a couple of things:

1. Spend a few bucks and get a battery disconnect widget that lets you disconnect the battery just by unscrewing a knob. I'm constantly disconnecting the battery, especially when dealing with anything electrical or fuel-related.
View attachment 2657067

2. I had a devil of a time with my 1993 80 seemingly stalling out when going uphill. It turned out to be a faulty connection to the throttle body. These are pretty old trucks at this point and often have been fiddled with and the connectors come loose or were not properly repaired. Have a close look and tug a little on anything related to the EFI. Might reveal something.

Are you getting a Check Engine Light when the truck stalls?

Hope you find the culprit soon!
Battery disconnects.

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Battery disconnects.
Whoo Hoo! Those are extremely manly battery disconnects. And I love the wiring with zip ties and cable conduit. Very nice!
 
Whoo Hoo! Those are extremely manly battery disconnects. And I love the wiring with zip ties and cable conduit. Very nice!
Hey John Young when I reply to post reply does it send it to the person that was helping you so Am I supposed to hit the post reply in the bottom right corner of the person your replying to or does this post it to the thread??
 
I was originally about to just back @BILT4ME on the intake tube or engine harness chafe to the ECU, then I saw your pics - this motor & electrics are too custom for me to be much help from the looks of it.

I hope you’re the builder - or the builder gave you great documentation when work was done/you bought it completed.

Yes - there is a plug underside the body well behind the DS B-pillar/ near C-pillar, but I swear I saw a pic w/ a internal gas tank, so I’ve no clue if yours is in use.
The plug is easy to trace if you pull the RR DS door sillplate & look at the floor harness - you’ll see a single grommet exiting the cab.

I had a stick grab mine in the old LX450 & snag - shut me down right there cold.
20 mins of tracing I found the issue, the connector is on a short (6”) stub of wires coming out of that floor harness main loom.

HTH.
 
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OK thanks for your help. I was afraid this was going to happen after touching a few things it was going to start working and it did. So I pulled the fuel pump plug you spoke of and all the mechanical hard line for EGR. I did find 2 main harnesses in the engine compartment right above the starter, 1 larger than the other. They were dry I cleaned greased them. found and repaired a brown wire pulled from the plug on a previous upgrade. Repair did not hold. I did not even get into the glovebox area yet. The sputter is gone worries me I dont know what fixed it. Anyway you guys sent me in some areas I haven't been. Im cleaning up others messes and poor electrical practices. Again thanks. Oh and I did not originally build It. I got it as a nightmare and it was most unreliable mechanically and electrically. I can see traces of 3-4 different people that had some ideas but proceeded to go downhill as the final owner attempted but did not have the proper tools or ideas. There are traces of someone at A shop and the work they did was good, not perfect but you can tell it was a shop. I believe Fabtour or something like that. I suppose the owner didn't have enough money to put into it and owned a sledge hammer and a Sawzall. No documentation only what I have done. Im in for the long-haul. I have another 94 that Im using for troubleshooting and tracing electrical. The 94 will be the next build. Thanks again and really appreciate the tips of common problem areas. Boy you guys really know this Toyota stuff.
 
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