Engine compartment cooling fan sensor

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Sep 1, 2006
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I have my 1986 FJ60 (gasoline) in the shop having the carb rebuilt. The tech told me that the engine compartment cooling fan sensor wire was burnt. He replaced the wire and then told me that the sensor is bad because it will not go to ground when hot and that it needs to be replaced. They are having difficulty finding the part. Does anyone know where I can purchase one?
Thanks,
Cajunpuc
davidpuckett@bellsouth.net
 
They are really expensive when you can find them. What I did, and several others have done, is to just ground it out. This way the fan stays on for 30 minutes after every shut down. The Fan relay is set at 30 mins and is not changeable.
 
They are really expensive when you can find them. What I did, and several others have done, is to just ground it out. This way the fan stays on for 30 minutes after every shut down. The Fan relay is set at 30 mins and is not changeable.

As in you simply connect the wire you would normally connect to the sensor directly to a ground?
 
As in you simply connect the wire you would normally connect to the sensor directly to a ground?

Exactly. The sensor is just a bi-metal sensor. As the sensor cools the metals contract at different rates and thus, ultimately, killing the ground. Well all you are doing is bypassing the temperature sensor and automatically going to ground. 30 mins tops everytime. Been that way for a few months now.
 
Exactly. The sensor is just a bi-metal sensor. As the sensor cools the metals contract at different rates and thus, ultimately, killing the ground. Well all you are doing is bypassing the temperature sensor and automatically going to ground. 30 mins tops everytime. Been that way for a few months now.

Excellent. I was just thinking about that and I realized that after my header install, I only have that bracket grounded through the aluminum intake manifold, which is why my cooling fan hasn't worked.

Thanks:cheers::cheers:
 
I took my non working sensor & soaked it in PB Blaster. The inside part spun in the outside part (don't think this is normal, but don't really know). Sprayed it a few more times for good measure (didn't work anyway so what the heck). I wired it back up...put a propane tourch to it & what do ya know the fan kicked on. I installed it & now it works fine...I do have 2 more of these sensors in my parts arsenal from trucks I've stripped, all work with heat applied from the propane torch.

Or you could just ground it out. The choice is yours.
 
Excellent. I was just thinking about that and I realized that after my header install, I only have that bracket grounded through the aluminum intake manifold, which is why my cooling fan hasn't worked.

Thanks:cheers::cheers:

Yeah just have it go to the inner fender somewhere and you're golden. And thank Spike Strip, he told me about it :cheers:
 
Or you could just ground it out. The choice is yours.

In truth there is an obvious advantage to both sides.

If you stay stock, the carb fan doesn't need to run the full 30 mins every time you shut down, thus eliminating the risk of a dead battery.

If you connect straight to ground it will work every time, especially when you don't realize the fan isn't on BUT you are now running the fan for a full 30 minutes when it could only need 5.
 
Excellent. I was just thinking about that and I realized that after my header install, I only have that bracket grounded through the aluminum intake manifold, which is why my cooling fan hasn't worked.

Thanks:cheers::cheers:

If you keep it wired like stock & just ground the bracket it will still work like stock...or is that what you were already saying & I just misunderstood?
 
Any way to get this to assist with the high side onn the a/c condenser to get better summer performance?
 
If you keep it wired like stock & just ground the bracket it will still work like stock...or is that what you were already saying & I just misunderstood?

Exactly. I am going to get rid of the stupid PCV system anyway so I'm just gonna ground the wire to the fender.
 
Its on a little bracket under the intake, towards the firewall side of the exhaust outlet
 
Jeez ... Tonkota , tonyota, I keep gettin' you guys mixed up !
:D

I installed a ON/OFF toggle switch so the fan doesn't run when the engine is cold (like just cycling the ignition key - or moving the truck 20 ft) I put the toggle switch in the line to ground. All you have to do is toggle the switch ON/OFF and the fan stops until the next time you cycle the ignition switch.

NLXTACY - Sounds like it's time for us to do a dual battery set up!
 
I'll start spec'ing out stuff. Randy keeps bugging me about it too and I think he needs one more than both of us :p

LOL! - saw his thread on battery problems. Time for a Die Hard Platinum!
 
so I used the search button:clap: after reading this post and noticed that a few 62 owners got rid of this because its main function was for vapor lock and being that I am FI can I just trash the cooling fan so I can get some real estate.

p.s. sorry for the hijack
 
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for the FJ62 engine bay cooling fan controller (current part # 85927-17050), has anyone tried a NO thermal switch like you use to turn on the fan for a wood burning stove? if so, what brand and part #? TSM RM080U page CO-14 says thermistor/controller turns fan relay on at 90 C. the exact temperature isn't that important, as long as it activates the fan below maybe 100 C and turns it back off near the same temperature.
 

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