Electrical Mods (batteries, circuits, etc.)

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spressomon

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Given we've had a fair amount of discussion around this I thought I'd dedicate a thread to all things electrical for our 100/470s.

Just finished the Odyssey 2150 install including a larger battery tray, custom top clamp and longer + and ground cables. If I had to buy metal I would have built the top clamp a little differently/better. But I had enough this/that scrap to pull it off...and only $20 out of pocket for the SS tray.

Did I mention this battery is HEAVY?!

Big thanks to Shaggy and others for the inspiration!

Group 31 mod .webp
 
Nice. My odyssey 2150 just arrived this afternoon. I spoke with Christo. He hasnt had the chance to fit one of these yet in his group 31 tray. I went ahead and ordered it and will see how things go. I will post up here the results. I also received the Ctek charger Les recommended and used it today to charge my Aux battery. Works great! Thanks!
 
In battery diagnosis mode...and it now appears the 4-1/2 year old Odyssey 1230 is failing. Per Scott's recommendation I connected my Waeco 50 to just the 1230, monitor the voltage and see what happens. It clearly is on its last breath. I haven't lost confidence in Odyssey as the 1230 is a little on the small capacity side for what I need. Hope my 1500 that I moved from the starting position lasts a while longer though!

Jon: Although I don't see a "J" bolt in Slee's kit I think he might be supplying a longer version as I had to fab a drop style bracket to allow the OEM "J" bolt to function properly.
 
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Jon: Although I don't see a "J" bolt in Slee's kit I think he might be supplying a longer version as I had to fab a drop style bracket to allow the OEM "J" bolt to function properly.

According to the installation instructions he has on his site, it reuses the original "J" bolt. We will see how it goes.

Are you still using the Slee dual battery tray with the Odyssey 1230 & new 1500?
 
Yes...at least the tray portion is Slee's original (not sure how he builds them now...but there isn't a vertical lip on my tray)...so the 1500 fits...just barely. I have about 1/4" or slightly less between the battery and the windshield wiper motor...and about 3/16" between the battery and the mounting bolt the battery tray shares with the power steering reservoir.

I thought about moving the power steering reservoir farther forward and looking for a larger output battery than even the 1500...but with the Mobi-Arc and ARB compressor I've got no mo room! But the 1500 should be a good improvement for my needs.
 
Slees primary 31M battery tray kit doesnt come with a J-Bolt, it still fits with the double nut setup. The tray itself is very slimline and only adds the thickness of the material to the bottom of the fender.

attachment.php
 
Still working on solving my electrical woes. After much diagnosing last week it appears, in addition to the dying Odyssey 1230, my alternator is failing but not in the way a failing alternator has shown itself to me on prior vehicles. This one is putting out 17.5-18.5 volts...typically, per my previous experience, this symptom would point to the regulator.

So...a new (reman) alternator hopefully will be ready for me to pick up this morning...more info to follow.

FWIW I did contact DC Power Engineering about their high output alternators but even if I could afford one they're backed up a month or more on what I'd need. Maybe someday ;)
 
No Bueno....

Well, I have the new Odyssey, Slee battery tray, and correct terminal studs. Now I need to make a new and longer ground cable before I change everything out. My OEM one feels REALLY short. Any recommendations? Should I make it or just go to the auto parts place and just buy one?

Dan, what battery terminals are you using in that picture above? Those look nice and I have not seen those before...not that I am going to change out mine or anything.....
 
They are car audio type battery terminals I bought quite a few years ago from eBay. I see similar still offered on eBay.

I assume you refer to the fender to battery terminal ground wire yes? If so maybe the typical car parts retailer has a ~12-18" pre-made 4ga that would work.

OTOH if you give me the exact length, assuming off the shelf won't work, I will make you one for parts cost. Should ship ~$5 ala USPS Priority.
 
Big ratchet type that will work up to 1gauge. And then for bigger the kind you whack with a hammer.

So...just finished installing an O'Reilly lifetime warranty chinese alternator. Chalk another one up: I've never had an alternator fail by putting out too much voltage. Fawk me.

I thought about going the Sequoia 150a route but they use avalanche type diodes which are not compatible with alt driven welders. And the price of most reman 150a Sequoia alts was $350 and change...so for that I'd rather kick in more, even if no welder involved, and get the hot-zoot HO alternator. Hopefully the O'Reilly lasts longer than the Toyota reman did...
 
I've got the 130amp alt from the newer 100s in my 2000, replaced alt because of a splitting housing not because it had failed. Probably too many hot water crossings.
 
I'm pretty sure the Oreily alts are made in the same factory as the Toyota ones.

Sent via the ether from my candy bar running ginger bread
 
Thanks for the offer to make me a cable Dan! Ran by my local Oreily today and picked up what I needed.
 
two of those, mounted to my AO rack, would be pretty awesome. would be able to keep ice cream in my truck for after work ;)
 
I am currently drunk on scotch...
Someone posteted a great thread on his mod in the back of his hundy where he built a pretty good fuse block. I have been unable to find it again. Anyone got it? The block was hidden well in his fender well. :cheers:

Posted from a brick.
 

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