Electrical Connector Part Numbers and Ease of DIY Replacement (1 Viewer)

[Jelder]

Hi Mudders,

I've done some looking around, but have not found any specific or concise info. NOT that it isn't here someplace, I just couldn't find it, so thanks in advance.

I have several questions about the below:

1. What's the part number of this block, as well as the corresponding plug-in? Or, where can I find the info?
2. Where can I see exactly what each wire/pin combo actually does?
3. Where can I buy replacements for this and others (pic is the driver's side, with the two above having similar corrosion). BTW- there seem to be a couple pins that are broken off and stuck in the female side, and my Check VGRS warning has been coming on, but I have no idea if it could be related to a bad pin.
4. What's the level of difficulty of doing this myself?
5. If I elect to try to clean or repair the current ones, what is a good resource for info on tools, techniques, etc?

Thanks all, any help/info is much appreciated. Another BTW, I've checked thoroughly and see no signs of current water infiltration anywhere, which leads me to believe there isn't an ongoing problem with moisture getting into the cabin.

 

[bloc]

Most Toyota connectors have a very small 5-digit number molded into them, and if you put that sequence after “90980-“ you have the complete part number of that connector portion.

I don’t have enough experience to recommend what to do about the pins, from a “put it back to factory” perspective, but pretty sure it’s in the EWD (electrical wiring diagram) portion of the FSM (factory service manual). If you really want to understand the documents you’ll need to get those and learn how to use them. It would be a pretty heavy lift for someone with no experience, though.

Probably MUCH easier would be to identify the bad and questionable pins then bypass the connector for those circuits. If you are careful about identifying the correct wire on each side this should be pretty easy to do and would save you a ton of work. You’d still need to clean the rest but that’s a simple job compared to completely depinning each side, doing proper open-barrel crimp wire repairs, then getting it all back correctly.

 

[Jelder]

Most Toyota connectors have a very small 5-digit number molded into them, and if you put that sequence after “90980-“ you have the complete part number of that connector portion.

I don’t have enough experience to recommend what to do about the pins, from a “put it back to factory” perspective, but pretty sure it’s in the EWD (electrical wiring diagram) portion of the FSM (factory service manual). If you really want to understand the documents you’ll need to get those and learn how to use them. It would be a pretty heavy lift for someone with no experience, though.

Probably MUCH easier would be to identify the bad and questionable pins then bypass the connector for those circuits. If you are careful about identifying the correct wire on each side this should be pretty easy to do and would save you a ton of work. You’d still need to clean the rest but that’s a simple job compared to completely depinning each side, doing proper open-barrel crimp wire repairs, then getting it all back correctly.

Thanks for the info. Apologies, but I'm a rank amateur when it comes to wiring. What does "bypass the connector for those circuits" mean, and how do you do it?

 

[Nothinghead]

Thanks for the info. Apologies, but I'm a rank amateur when it comes to wiring. What does "bypass the connector for those circuits" mean, and how do you do it?

He means cut the wires that aren’t connecting properly through the connector and instead directly wire those together outside the connector.

 

[bloc]

He means cut the wires that aren’t connecting properly through the connector and instead directly wire those together outside the connector.

Yep.

 

[grinchy]

There an fsm thread. After you get that installed, you can navigate to your year/model, and from there look at the wiring diagrams,

 

[GordJ]

I am with bloc, remove the wires from the connector on both sides and splice them together removing the junction block completely. Obviously it isn't as easy as typing it out but if you were to remove on wire from each side at a time and splice it it would not be that bad. From what I have read de=pinning the existing pins in the connector is for all intents and purposes impossible if there is corrosion. And I would have nightmares about accessing the correct replacement pins.

 

[bloc]

Personally I’d leave the good pins and wires in place. Two or three mods to the harness is a lot better than forty.

 

[Simplespirit]

I bypassed two circuits on my drivers side. One each in two different blocks. Be 100% sure you have the correct wires, cut at back of block, solder and heatshrink new wire to extend. I used connectors on both sides of the extensions just in case, but you might be fine with a direct wire to both sides. You can always cut it later and add connectors then if needed. The space is tight to work in, but it is doable.