EGR VSV Success on my LX450 (fj80) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Threads
9
Messages
30
Location
DFW Metroplex TX
For those of you struggling with code P0401, I just successfully completed an experiment with the VSV. After testing my EGR system, I discovered that I had a dead VSV. It wasn't turnng on when applying 12v to it. It was fried and in need of replacement. I just couldn't bring myself to pay the $119 for the oem toyota part... besides, no one had it locally here in the DFW area. It seems that in most cases it's a special order part. None of the retail auto parts stores seem to carry an aftermarket replacement either. Being the impatient person I am, I started looking for an alternative way to repair my VSV issue without having to special order and wait for a part. My assumption was that the VSV didn't necessarily need to be the exact oem part. Afterall, it's basically just a vacuum solenoid that turns on and off, either allowing vacuum to the egr when 12v is applied to it or not allowing vacuum to the egr when no voltage is supplied. In my thinking, I figured any vacuum solenoid from any manufacturer should work as long as it fit the toyota vsv's electrical plug off of the wiring harness. Side note: Apparently there are a lot of terms for this particular part among different manufacters: vsv, egr control valve, egr vacuum solenoid, etc...

So I searched different locally available parts that had the same function as the toyota VSV part #90910-12079. There are literally hundreds of vsv parts out there. I ended up stumbling across this one at autozone. Dorman/EGR Vacuum Solenoid (911-850) | AutoZone.com. It's dorman part #911-850. It was the closest thing I could find to the toyota vsv that was instantly available, so I bought it and decided to give it a shot.

I ended up just leaving the broken vsv in place and relocating the new vsv just outside of the intake manifold. I bought some new vacuum tubing and extended the lines to reach my new mounting location. I unplugged the blue electrical connector plug from the old vsv and plugged up the new part. I did have to shave off a little piece of plastic on the new vsv so the plug would fit, but it was minor and took about 30 seconds to modify. After it was all plugged in, I zip tied the new part in place, tidied up my install and went for a test drive. The second I hit 50mph on the interstate, my egr system showed "readiness" on my code reader. No CEL. All systems show readiness, and my LX450 is as good as new!

So my theory was correct that other aftermarket vacuum solenoids will work fine on the fj80 egr system as long as you're ok with it not mounting in the orignal location and as long as the part just has 2 vacuum ports and the right electrical plug. I just used what was available to me and in stock locally and it cost me $45, but I assume you could pick a similar part up for as little as $15 depending on your local stock.

All in all, the whole process took about 25 minutes. The hardest part was moving the black intake bracket out of the way so I could get my hand underneath the intake to access the vsv vacuum lines and electrical plug. Once I figured out how to get a ratchet on the bottom bolt of the intake bracket it was smooth sailing.

If anyone is interested, I can snap some pics to show the process. I have to admit it feels really good to have that CEL off and all systems "ready" with no codes! And on top of that, I have the satisfaction of not getting screwed out of $120 for a really cheap little part! Take that Toyota!
 
Once you get to 10 posts you can add photos to show how you rigged it up. Which code reader did you use?
 
Here are a few pics of the new part in place. Sorry, they're from my phone and not the best, but at least show how it's positioned in there. It's just zip tied to the intake bracket, but it looks like it's gonna be a good spot.

By the way, my code reader is a cen-tech cheapo from harbor freight. It gets the job done though and shows "readiness" which is what I was after...CAN OBDII Code Reader with Multilingual Menu

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Excellent investigating. I figured something like this would work but have ultimately gone the route of the resistor mod and using SuperHatch's circuit to achieve readiness. I'd have that completed except I can't find the resistors I just bought to complete the circuit. Will do full post when complete.

No CEL and P0401 is a nice thing.
 
The resistor mod crossed my mind, but I opted to go this route so that the system functions the way it's supposed to. I'm interested to see if there is any effect on fuel economy now that my rig is back to stock specs. I'd prefer to gut the whole EGR system as it's a stupid design... sort of like breathing your own farts... but I have to pass emissions here in the metroplex. I know there's other ways around it, but I'm just happy that my 25 minute mod did the trick!
 
If it weren't 108 degrees in TX today, I'd do a pictorial how to. Doing a how to with pics would be pretty hard though since you can't really visually see much of the vsv under the manifold. A lot of the work has to be done by feel. I think I saw another thread though on relocating the vsv that may be helpful. There was a pic of the underside of the intake manifold that was helpful in knowing what was under there. Just search for "vsv relocation". It's really simple once you locate the electrical and vacuum connections of the vsv. Just unplug it all and plug it into the new part. If you have questions feel free to ask. I'll do my best to help out.
 
If you decide to tackle this project, I will give one word of advice. Either let your engine cool down before starting, or make sure you have really good gloves and a thick long sleeve shirt. I had a piece of skin exposed in between my glove and shirt and this was the result of my contact with the intake manifold:
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Did I mention that I'm really impatient. Got the burn marks to prove it. But I got rid of that damn CEL though. Makes it worth it! I wouldn't recommend burning the hell out of your arm though!
 
Thanks for doing that. I'm not above saving $75 on a part that is easy to change once relocated!:clap::cheers:
 
I'm suprised that there are no comments yet about how ridiculously clean that motor is!

Thought the same thing too.


Nice work UrbanNINJA.
 
Hey everyone, I did this same thing a about 3 weeks ago.i bought part from AZ and instructed my mechanic to relocate VSV just as suggested above. My cel has been out and I've driven about 1100 miles and still no Cel. I also took truck for state inspection with no problems. Thanks !!!!!
 
RTH

I am attempting this and have a newbie question. Which vacuum line goes to which port from the old VSV to the new VSV? Does the vacuum line on the bottom go to the new VSV bottom?
 
hey newtomelx, come help me diagnose my P0401 too!! need some motivation to fix the damn thing! and i have a OBDII scanner! lol I'm just north of downtown!
 
Tempted to give this a try since the rest of my EGR system tests ok but I still get a check engine light for it. For now I've just unplugged and jumped the connector for the EGR temp sensor and hooked the EGR and modulator vac. hoses into each other to eliminate the check engine light.
 
Im gonna do this for sure! Any improvements in your gas milage, i know the computer goes into limp mode with the cel light on and you lose some mpg. If i can go from 10 to 14 mpg i would s*** my pants........

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
I just wanted to say thanks for posting this tip. I fixed my own CEL problem using exactly the same cure. The amazing thing is my gas mileage has gone up from 10-12 to about 15 mpg, that's nice!
 
FYI, I get an occasional P0401. Sometimes it will come on 2-3 times throughout a day of driving, other times it will remain off for 3-4 months at a time. Not really enough to justify digging into it further. That said, I will buy this part and try it out. Found it at Amazon for $26, figured it was worth that much to try it out. I will probably reestablish the OEM system when I need to break the top down for a more pressing repair. A simple bypass for now seems about right.
UrbanNINJA, thanks for doing the leg work on this.:beer:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-850-Switching-Chrysler-Mitsubishi/dp/B003SOJVMS
 
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