EGR temp sensor tested open. Bad? (1 Viewer)

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I just realized I hijacked this thread started by BrettinSanAntonio; brett, are you still out there? Did you get yours fixed?

g
 
in my 1996 FSM on page EG-166 it describes how to check the temp sensor in a water bath. You want to make sure all three points are on so there is no problem with temps in the middle.

Found it, thanks. Guess I'll have to put the FSM on my nightstand
and read it all the way through.

The temps given make sense;
ie: when the EGR is open the temp sensor should be
at it's lowest ohm reading and the hottest;

and the FSM says it should be at 2-4Kohms at 302 F in the oil bath test. I guess I could rig something up with a hot plate, or, try it on my stove being carefull not to spill it.

The in vehicle procedure says the reading should be below 4.3K ohms after racing the engine at 4000rpms for three minutes,
starting with a warm engine. This tells me that the EGR must
be open for the the test to be valid, and disconnecting
the VSV must then allow vacuum to open the EGR fully.
Which tells me that when the VSV is on, it is keeping the EGR
closed. Does that make sense, or does anyone know if that is the case?

Either way, I can try the benchtest tomorrow.

Thanks
G
 
How much is a egr temp sensor? I have been fighting the 401 and that is all I have not changed. I tested cold and in hot oil on the stove. I dont get any resistance.
 
I just replaced the EGR temp sensor on my 94 that had an open circuit. I must have damaged it when I replaced the EGR valve. One lead came loose. I was hoping that the new sensor will get rid of error code 28 (B2 oxygen sensor) on my 94, but the code 28 is still there. I measured my new sensor resistance around 200K+ ohm at room temperature before installation.
 

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