EGR removal help

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FZJ80 TN 93

FZJ80 TN 93

Joined
Feb 10, 2026
Threads
4
Messages
16
Location
KX TN
I trying to remove my EGR valve to check and see if it stuck open ( causing my poor / low idle) and to be able to remove the upper intake manifold to replace my vacuum lines. For the life of me, I can’t get the EGR pipe nut to come loose. I’ve used lots of penetrating lubricant but no luck. The hood get in the way and limits the leverage I can get on my wrench.

Does anyone have any tips/tricks they use to free the nut off the rusty EGR valve?

IMG_9709.webp
 
FZJ80 TN 93 said:
I trying to remove my EGR valve to check and see if it stuck open ( causing my poor / low idle) and to be able to remove the upper intake manifold to replace my vacuum lines. For the life of me, I can’t get the EGR pipe nut to come loose. I’ve used lots of penetrating lubricant but no luck. The hood get in the way and limits the leverage I can get on my wrench.

Does anyone have any tips/tricks they use to free the nut off the rusty EGR valve?

View attachment 4093075
Click to expand...
Have you tried a crowfoot wrench? Maybe you would have a better leverage.
 
Try tightening a little then loosening with a pipe wrench, use quality penetrating oil either Kroil or free all.
 
Large crescent wrench (~2" jaw capacity IIRC), approach from the right side of the vehicle, won't be able to swing it in a complete arc due to the hood but it should get it started. If needed strike the handle of the wrench with a deadblow hammer or similar to break the nut free.

Already mentioned heat (Propane or MAPP gas torch kit, Home Depot), then penetrating oil, repeat. Be very careful where you point the torch, best if you use a welding blanket or similar to protect wiring, rubber, plastics.

There's a bunch of other things that can be worked on while you're in there:
Replace Heat control valve
Replace all heater hoses and PHH (USE OEM or Gates GreenStripe hose)
Replace Valve cover gasket
Replace Valve cover spark plug tube seals
Reseal half moons front of head
Clean Throttle Body completely including all small vacuum ports
Clean EGR valve once it's off
Clean the EGR gas tunnel inside the upper intake plenum (clean the whole thing)
Rewrap engine harness especially near EGR pipe, add heat insulation sleeve
Consider sending injectors off to be cleaned while the intake is off

Tip: be very careful working around the sensors on the left side of the engine (very easy to break the old plastic if bumped)
 
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Since you have a 93 you can disable the EGR and it won't throw a code. It is difficult to remove the whole pipe and EGR valve so I would consider just getting plug to put between the pipe and the EGR valve. I would think that something like this brass plug on Amazon could be cut to the right thickness and would block off flow back to the intake. But it might be better to use a disc or something simpler.

And again, since you have a 93 it shouldn't cause a code or anything.

Brass Plug.webp
 
Kernal said:
Large crescent wrench (~2" jaw capacity IIRC), approach from the right side of the vehicle, won't be able to swing it in a complete arc due to the hood but it should get it started. If needed strike the handle of the wrench with a deadblow hammer or similar to break the nut free.

Already mentioned heat (Propane or MAPP gas torch kit, Home Depot), then penetrating oil, repeat. Be very careful where you point the torch, best if you use a welding blanket or similar to protect wiring, rubber, plastics.

There's a bunch of other things that can be worked on while you're in there:
Replace Heat control valve
Replace all heater hoses and PHH (USE OEM or Gates GreenStripe hose)
Replace Valve cover gasket
Replace Valve cover spark plug tube seals
Reseal half moons front of head
Clean Throttle Body completely including all small vacuum ports
Clean EGR valve once it's off
Clean the EGR gas tunnel inside the upper intake plenum (clean the whole thing)
Rewrap engine harness especially near EGR pipe, add heat insulation sleeve
Consider sending injectors off to be cleaned while the intake is off

Tip: be very careful working around the sensors on the left side of the engine (very easy to break the old plastic if bumped)
Click to expand...
I’m slowly coming to the realization that this isn’t going to be a quick fix and that my engine has had little to no preventative maintenance other than oil changes.

I think most if not all of the vacuum lines and hoses are original. While I haven’t been able to get the nut on the EGR free yet, I’ve started taking other stuff apart.

This is what the TB and intake looked like. Does anyone run an oil catch can on the PVC line? Or is this amount of oil due to a defective PVC valve? (New PVC valve on order)

IMG_9712.webp


IMG_9715.webp
 
Be careful around any old rubber (don't use solvents to clean around the dashpot, etc), the rubber may crumble. You'll need a new O ring for the IAC valve as you'll want to remove that to clean out the port and the plunger well. Do not spray any solvent into the IAC valve. No good reason to remove the TPS IMHO, nothing under that to clean although you may want to lube the shaft for the butterfly valve after cleaning ie synthetic low weight oil. FWIW
 
FZJ80 TN 93 said:
I’m slowly coming to the realization that this isn’t going to be a quick fix and that my engine has had little to no preventative maintenance other than oil changes.

I think most if not all of the vacuum lines and hoses are original. While I haven’t been able to get the nut on the EGR free yet, I’ve started taking other stuff apart.

This is what the TB and intake looked like. Does anyone run an oil catch can on the PVC line? Or is this amount of oil due to a defective PVC valve? (New PVC valve on order)

View attachment 4093622

View attachment 4093623
Click to expand...
My wife's is a '94. The TB looked just like that (from years and years of neglect by the previous owners). Installed a catch can from Epic Cruisers... a vendor here on Mud. It's doing it's job and catch the blow-by, which ought to keep the TB clean and functioning better for a long time.

EPIC Cruisers

Thread 'EPIC Cruisers - Oil Catch Can Kit - NOW AVAILABLE!'

NOW AVAILABLE - www.epiccruisers.com/collections/products

Hey everyone! I’ve been wanting to share this project for a while but I wanted to make sure it was 100% ready before doing so. I’m at a place where I can confidently share this project, and am also ready to begin shipping out the first batch next week. I’m hoping this first batch does well and I can continue making batches to offer the MUD community.

I want to introduce the EPIC Cruisers Catch Can Kit for the 80 series (FZJ80/1FZ-FE). This kit includes the catch can, mounting bracket, Toyota PCV hose, barb...
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Glad you got it done.

FWIW (and future searches EGR NUT Removal) there is a type of wrench seen more often in heavy equipment/industry/trucking called a Striking Wrench (or Slugging/Flogging)
designed to be struck with a hammer (2-3 lb steel or deadblow for example). The advantage in this situation is it's only 7 1/2" long and the striking end is hardened. If used to loosen a large nut or bolt be careful where the wrench might go if the nut comes loose suddenly ie: wear heavy gloves, hold the wrench, put something in the direction of travel to protect components that might get damaged if the wrench comes loose (or you miss with the hammer ;) ).


Here's an example, 32mm open Striking wrench





Striking wrench example 32mm.webp


Striking wrench size compared to arm example.webp




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