EGR issues

[ElPolloBlanco]

So I decided to swap out my EGR valve this afternoon. Thinking it would be a quick 30-60 minute job I started it in the driveway. Well things were going well until I went to remove the valve from the pipe at the bottom. Yeah with that wire bundle in the way I can't get anything on it to break it loose. So I decided why not just pull the top half of the intake manifold out and swap out the vsv too. Well here I am and I have the intake apart and the vsv that's on it looks nothin like the one I have to replace it. Also the EGR won't come off that pipe because its rusted together. I'm soaking it in PB Blaster right now. And since it took longer than expected I had to push my truck up my slightly inclined driveway into the garage by myself. It's been a tough afternoon.




The rusty EGR.





Intake buildup. It's pretty nasty.





Where I'm at right now. Notice the #1 is cleaner than the rest.





What's that thing next to the vsv on the replacement bracket. I checked the part numbers and they match. Also the EGR valve I got to replace this one is a green too the current one is red. I kind of remember reading that one was better than the other. Is this true?

Fat-fingered on my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[CruiseOrlando]

If you're talking about the grey device, that's the PAIR VSV. The blue one is the EGR VSV.

The red VSV is the fuel pressure VSV. The turquoise/light blue VSV is the evap VSV.

Too bad you're in CA and have to keep all that crap on there.

Refer to this thread for more information:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/611280-removing-egr-pair-vsvs.html

 

[breathed]

The different color valves sounds more like the EGR vacuum modulator valve that's next to the EGR. The original ones have a blue top and new replacements are green or visa versa.

Now you can get a pipe on the end of your wrench. A long handle and steady pressure will loosen the EGR nut.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

OK so I have two different EGR's in front of me. One is a 25620-66011 that was on the truck the other is a 25620-66010 that I got used in hopes that it would help clear this 0401 code so I can pass smog. The 66010 is off of a 95 however and I have a 96, it also has a threaded hole on the front of it were mine is solid. I'm hoping someone that knows parts can get back to me soon because I Have to get the truck put back together tonight. I'm already 6 days over on my registration. Have to make this happen soon.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

also My truck currently doesn't have the Evap VSV on it. And I don't see any lines to change this. Is that something that changed from 95-96?

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

This is bad, right?

Fat-fingered on my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[bigredmachine]

no not so bad. unwrap as much of the harness as you can and just insoect the wires. your looking for where the insulation has burned through or the wire may have been damaged. anything wrong will require a quick wire repair. not a big deal, just give yourself enogh room to work with the harness

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

no not so bad. unwrap as much of the harness as you can and just insoect the wires. your looking for where the insulation has burned through or the wire may have been damaged. anything wrong will require a quick wire repair. not a big deal, just give yourself enogh room to work with the harness

I was going to use motorcycle header/pipe tape to wrap it back up when finish. You think that would work to keep it from burning away like that again?

 

[bigredmachine]

ya there are a few threads where people have done similar things. tyr lookin under cyl 5 missfire. not uncomon to burn the harness there. just take your time going through it wire by wire, and tape and wrap when done

 

[breathed]

And secure that wire harness away from the EGR valve when you're done. There's a plastic clip that wraps around it and affixes to a metal bracket near the valve cover. The plastic clip probably broke and fell off allowing the harness to touch the EGR valve. I just used a plastic zip tie, but will probably replace it with a stainless one.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

And secure that wire harness away from the EGR valve when you're done. There's a plastic clip that wraps around it and affixes to a metal bracket near the valve cover. The plastic clip probably broke and fell off allowing the harness to touch the EGR valve. I just used a plastic zip tie, but will probably replace it with a stainless one.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep and eye out when I get everything back together tomorrow.

Back to my EGR difference issue. That port that I'm talking about, with the threads, could be for a temp sensor. Anyone know what type of thread it is. I may just drill and tap it so I can put a bolt in it to plug it up. Anyone think this is a bad idea?

 

[bigredmachine]

the computer is looking for a temp signal from the egr to help in determining the operation of the valve and vsv. you would get a code for having the temp sensor unpluged

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

the computer is looking for a temp signal from the egr to help in determining the operation of the valve and vsv. you would get a code for having the temp sensor unpluged

I believe the temp sensor was moved from the EGR Valve to the intake manifold in 96. I'm just assuming this as I have a 96 and that's were it is. The replacement part is off of a 95. I got everything put back together and reset the code and it came right back. No Idea what I'm going to do next. Think I'll drive it off a mountain and claim insurance and get a cruiser with fewer issues.