Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I guess the thermostat can be installed upside down.
EDIT fj62 changed thermostat runs too hot now? Kickdown Adjusted
- Thread starter MrMacdugal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
I honestly do not recall if it went in spring up or down, haha. I just put it in how the old one came out. The temp is not spiking, it stays about the same all the time. I did put a laser temp on it last night and if it was accurate(i had two, but one seemed more accurate) it was reading like 150F at the top hose, but on the top of the thermostat housing was a almost at 200F. I then parked it nose up on an embankment like ramps and did the funnel thing and had someone massaging the hose. Got some more coolant in there for sure. It got messy.
I'll probably just order a new TSU with the correct part number for the ten buck and throw it in there and see how that goes. If it doesnt change after a while, I'll get another thermostat and go back in there to check the orientation and make sure the oring is seated correct.
Other than that, like i said it stays pretty much at the same temp on the gage once it warms up. As long as it doesnt start overheating i think i'll be fine. I can take off the rad cap (with a rag because it is hot) when its up to temp without any crazy spraying of coolant or big whoosh so its not getting crazy hot in there
I'll probably just order a new TSU with the correct part number for the ten buck and throw it in there and see how that goes. If it doesnt change after a while, I'll get another thermostat and go back in there to check the orientation and make sure the oring is seated correct.
Other than that, like i said it stays pretty much at the same temp on the gage once it warms up. As long as it doesnt start overheating i think i'll be fine. I can take off the rad cap (with a rag because it is hot) when its up to temp without any crazy spraying of coolant or big whoosh so its not getting crazy hot in there
- Thread starter
- #23
UPDATE:
I got a new radiator cap. After putting that on and running, It seemed to help resolve the air in the lines issue either by coincidence, or it was already working itself free of air. Anyways, on OSS's recommendation, I got the correct temp sending unit and attempted the install without taking out any other parts or hoses besides the TSU. Well, I got the old one out, but my hands are too dumb and awkward, so I dropped the old TSU right down in the engine while the coolant runs out everywhere. In a hurry, I decide to look for it later and get the new one in there before all the coolant runs out. Almost got the new one in the hole, and down in the engine that one goes. So now I have coolant leaking out everywhere and 2 TSU's lost in the engine. After scraping nearly all the skin off my knuckles i retrieve both of them. The new one ended up in the leaf spring... How it got all the way over there is black magic. Got the new one in and topped up the coolant. It took far more than it lost, indicating to me that the air is gone and now I can fill the rad to proper levels.
Good news is... The temp is now reading perfectly in the middle of the gage or just below the middle. I feel so much better about it now!
The truck seems to run better for sure but one thing still bothers me to no end which was one reason for changing the thermostat and TSU.
The Crusier does not like to drive cold. It starts, idles and runs very well cold, but if you do not let it warm to operating temp it has a hard time accelerating. It just wants to bog down. IT does not ever die on me, but will just flat line, no acceleration. If on flat or down hill it does eventually go faster, but very slowly. It may give a very small stutter/backfire or pop noise and try to get going with little change.
On the other hand, If I let the truck warm all the way up, it will accelerate better but not great. If I let it warm all the way up and go for a short ride, put it in park for say 30 seconds and then go again, it is like a different truck. Has pep and good acceleration. It is so strange and often intermittent. I have few different theories on why this may be, but I have no definitive answers and never enough time or real know how to test many of these theories.
My main thoughts are either Vacuum or fuel related. Any thoughts or recommendations what to check would be much appreciated!
I got a new radiator cap. After putting that on and running, It seemed to help resolve the air in the lines issue either by coincidence, or it was already working itself free of air. Anyways, on OSS's recommendation, I got the correct temp sending unit and attempted the install without taking out any other parts or hoses besides the TSU. Well, I got the old one out, but my hands are too dumb and awkward, so I dropped the old TSU right down in the engine while the coolant runs out everywhere. In a hurry, I decide to look for it later and get the new one in there before all the coolant runs out. Almost got the new one in the hole, and down in the engine that one goes. So now I have coolant leaking out everywhere and 2 TSU's lost in the engine. After scraping nearly all the skin off my knuckles i retrieve both of them. The new one ended up in the leaf spring... How it got all the way over there is black magic. Got the new one in and topped up the coolant. It took far more than it lost, indicating to me that the air is gone and now I can fill the rad to proper levels.
Good news is... The temp is now reading perfectly in the middle of the gage or just below the middle. I feel so much better about it now!
The truck seems to run better for sure but one thing still bothers me to no end which was one reason for changing the thermostat and TSU.
The Crusier does not like to drive cold. It starts, idles and runs very well cold, but if you do not let it warm to operating temp it has a hard time accelerating. It just wants to bog down. IT does not ever die on me, but will just flat line, no acceleration. If on flat or down hill it does eventually go faster, but very slowly. It may give a very small stutter/backfire or pop noise and try to get going with little change.
On the other hand, If I let the truck warm all the way up, it will accelerate better but not great. If I let it warm all the way up and go for a short ride, put it in park for say 30 seconds and then go again, it is like a different truck. Has pep and good acceleration. It is so strange and often intermittent. I have few different theories on why this may be, but I have no definitive answers and never enough time or real know how to test many of these theories.
My main thoughts are either Vacuum or fuel related. Any thoughts or recommendations what to check would be much appreciated!
If you were starting at the beginning I'd recommend these but if it just changed with the recent t-stat swap then disregard:
1. A440F transmission kickdown cable adjustment is always good to check if your rpms and shifting isn't great.
2. have you checked the timing on truck?
3. when is the last time valves were adjusted?
4. Close to empty fuel tank or crappy fuel?
5. O2 sensors checked per FSM or swapped when?
6. Vacuum lines are cheap and easy to replace. Check intake from air cleaner to MAF/manifold.
1. A440F transmission kickdown cable adjustment is always good to check if your rpms and shifting isn't great.
2. have you checked the timing on truck?
3. when is the last time valves were adjusted?
4. Close to empty fuel tank or crappy fuel?
5. O2 sensors checked per FSM or swapped when?
6. Vacuum lines are cheap and easy to replace. Check intake from air cleaner to MAF/manifold.
- Thread starter
- #25
The first 3 suggestions are all things I would like to check and have not. I unfortunately lack the confidence or know how to know I am doing them properly. Is it agreed that any good mechanic should be able to perform these for me? I have someone I always bring it to that I really trust, but have not asked them to do anything like this yet. Mostly just simple maintenance and a drive shaft repair so far by them.
The amount of fuel in the tank does not seem to affect the symptoms whatsoever, I had thought it did at one point but proved it wrong. Also this is my daily driver and it get fueled regularly at a reputable gas station with good gas.
The whole exhaust was replaced before I got the rig and then I did the Cats. The O2 sensors were not changed but have not thrown any codes, so I guess that could be an unknown factor.
Lastly, I just have not had a chance to replace any of the vacuum lines. They look to be free of cracks, but that was simply a visual inspection on what I readily see by looking at the engine.
The amount of fuel in the tank does not seem to affect the symptoms whatsoever, I had thought it did at one point but proved it wrong. Also this is my daily driver and it get fueled regularly at a reputable gas station with good gas.
The whole exhaust was replaced before I got the rig and then I did the Cats. The O2 sensors were not changed but have not thrown any codes, so I guess that could be an unknown factor.
Lastly, I just have not had a chance to replace any of the vacuum lines. They look to be free of cracks, but that was simply a visual inspection on what I readily see by looking at the engine.
1-3 can be done by a mechanic. I would download the factory service manual and print the exact pages out for the mechanic. That way you are specifying exactly what you want done. 1-3 are in the FSM with exact directions and pictures.
- Thread starter
- #27
The first thing I am going to do is adjust my kick down cable. This could be the ticket as along with the lack of power, it does not seem to always want to shift at the right times. It shifts too early from 1-2 and 2-3 from what I can tell. I think tightening the cable a hair will help, if I understand this all correctly.
Pictures are the throttle cable and kick down cable. I do believe that the one with red boot is the kick down. The top one with black boot goes over to the firewall and the one with red boot goes to the tranny or at least down toward it. As you can see I pushed the cable to the side and it appears to have slightly too much slack. Can anyone please confirm this is the correct cable and that tightening it will firm up the shifts? I want the RPM's to go higher before its shift points. Also for what its worth, it hardly ever seems to down shift unless I stop fully. It wants to pull up hill in the gear it is in unless I totally mash the gas pedal and rarely down shifts as I am slowing. Thinking the cable has stretched over time causing there to be more slack and the bad shifting as a result.
Thanks all!
Pictures are the throttle cable and kick down cable. I do believe that the one with red boot is the kick down. The top one with black boot goes over to the firewall and the one with red boot goes to the tranny or at least down toward it. As you can see I pushed the cable to the side and it appears to have slightly too much slack. Can anyone please confirm this is the correct cable and that tightening it will firm up the shifts? I want the RPM's to go higher before its shift points. Also for what its worth, it hardly ever seems to down shift unless I stop fully. It wants to pull up hill in the gear it is in unless I totally mash the gas pedal and rarely down shifts as I am slowing. Thinking the cable has stretched over time causing there to be more slack and the bad shifting as a result.
Thanks all!
- Thread starter
- #28
Well I adjusted the kickdown cable and it seems to have already helped. Adjusted and then drove it three times altogether. Will drive it some more to be sure, but has allowed it to work at higher rpm's before changing gears. Also seems to downshift as I come to a stop more so than before. Something I didnt expect is that is goes into and out of gear when I use the lever much smoother. Still time will tell but no longer does it give a loud clunk when when going into R or D from park which is a nice bonus.
@morganism
Are there two different toyota thermostats? If not, what is the OEM one supposed to open at?
Are there two different toyota thermostats? If not, what is the OEM one supposed to open at?
- Thread starter
- #30
I'm not positive there are two different toyota thermostats, but have read on here where people used thermostats that open at different temps. Whether or not they were toyota or OEM I dont know. Also I do not know what temp it or they open at. I just go with the recommendation of parts suppliers who specialize in cruisers. Sometimes that feels like putting my life in anothers hands. And not to bad mouth anyone, but I bought the TSU that I replaced from Cool Cruisers, then bought the correct one OSS recommended from fjparts.com. So there is definitely some variance between different suppliers
- Thread starter
- #31
Trying to complete the list of things to check which could cause loss of power. Changed all the vacuum lines yesterday. Not much of any change. Going to check timing and valve adjustment next.
My thoughts are starting to lean toward the communication of when to shift with the transmission and engine. It just does not seem to allow the engine to complete each gear at a high enough RPM to change gears. Then also when it should down shift when going up a hill. It does not.
Any ideas?
I know the previous owner was attempting to solve the issue. I know he swapped the engine computer, fuel pressure regulator and throttle body with no luck. I know this because the vehicle came with these three items as spares. It went to Cruisersolutions multiple times with no change... It does not go there anymore although I wish it could since they are down the street from me... I just dont seem to get reliable anything with them. Especially not diagnostics. Unless its a full resto with unlimited budget, they are not about it.
My thoughts are starting to lean toward the communication of when to shift with the transmission and engine. It just does not seem to allow the engine to complete each gear at a high enough RPM to change gears. Then also when it should down shift when going up a hill. It does not.
Any ideas?
I know the previous owner was attempting to solve the issue. I know he swapped the engine computer, fuel pressure regulator and throttle body with no luck. I know this because the vehicle came with these three items as spares. It went to Cruisersolutions multiple times with no change... It does not go there anymore although I wish it could since they are down the street from me... I just dont seem to get reliable anything with them. Especially not diagnostics. Unless its a full resto with unlimited budget, they are not about it.
I am curious if you discover anything. I have a similar problem. I will check my kickdown cable this weekend.
Perhaps not related but I had a problem recently this summer. The cruiser suddenly simply would not shift...at least that is what it felt like. The engine would spool up, rpm's very high and the truck would just crawl until it reached the speed which the transmission would shift. BAM! it shifted. I was only blocks from work. What I discovered was the hose to the PCV was crushed flat by vacuum. It must have been an old crappy hose. I replaced it and have not had the trouble again.
Perhaps not related but I had a problem recently this summer. The cruiser suddenly simply would not shift...at least that is what it felt like. The engine would spool up, rpm's very high and the truck would just crawl until it reached the speed which the transmission would shift. BAM! it shifted. I was only blocks from work. What I discovered was the hose to the PCV was crushed flat by vacuum. It must have been an old crappy hose. I replaced it and have not had the trouble again.
