EDIC stopped working? after oil change

[calen]

so i found lots of "edic working weird" posts but no "not working posts". So hoping for some sage insight.

mine was working fine till i changed the oil today. i got some o rings for the centrifugal oil filter and cleaned it for the for the first time today. haha it was so full of soot i thought that the soot was a rubber part lol. anyways. the edic arm had to get disconnected to get it out. never disconnected it before but read lots of instructions that involve its removal so figured it was simple. the easiest disconnect seemed to be the little screw that holds it to a brass pin at the forward end of the assembly. pulled it off and when moving it out of the way i touched it to the battery terminals for a nice spark oops. finished and put it back on. BTW is the brass pin it attaches to supposed to be able to be pushed inside what its coming out of? I had to pry open the receiving part of the arm so that there was zero pressure on the pin when sliding it back on as the pin would sink into where its protruding from? that normal? anyways, got it back on, started the engine. but then it wouldnt shut off.

The car has a modded ignition with manual glow and push start and I push a button ot activate the edic then start, and i depress the edic button to shut it off. now it does nothing. checked fuses, all good, checked ground, good. is it possible that i fried something when i touched the arm to the battery? also is it bad to stall the motor to stop it till i figure out the problem? wish i just had a cable on this. **** electronic s***.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The cable broke on my deuce and a half out on a field problem. I just stuck her in 4th (direct drive) a let smartly out on the clutch with my foot mashing on the brake. I think its fine for the short term until you figure it out. I will never willingly own a rig with all that computer controlled BS: parking brake, 4WD engagement, power steering...

 

[duncanrm]

Its anyone guess what you have.. its clearly not a factory EDIC setup with the push operation button you've described. The EDIC arm just pops off, no screws to undo etc.. can you post a photo of what you've described with the brass bit dropping down because it doesnt sound like the arm is a factory setup either..

 

[calen]

sure enough, it does just pop off. wish i knew that before. I searched for best way to get it off, and found nothing. nothing about how it looks suggests that it pops off. so yeah. I unscrewed this part. this is the brass knub i was talking about that sank into the part when i put the arm back on. pretty sure this is all standard equipment.

so now i know how to pop the arm off. how do i operate it with no edic right now?

and back to the original question, could I have fried the motor? relay? something else? when the arm connected with the battery?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Unfortunately, direct shorting electrical stuff can fry the unit - the reason fuses are important in circuits.
Have you checked the fuse box?
In the future disconnect the battery ground wires(s) when changing/working on electrical stuff, until everything is in place - that way if you bump something, nick a wire, drop a wrench in the wrong spot ... nothing bad can happen.

Killing the motor with the clutch will work for a while - shortens the life of the clutch. Some people are clutch riders any way and have poor clutch life just like brake riders do in brakes.

 

[calen]

Unfortunately, direct shorting electrical stuff can fry the unit - the reason fuses are important in circuits.
Have you checked the fuse box?
In the future disconnect the battery ground wires(s) when changing/working on electrical stuff, until everything is in place - that way if you bump something, nick a wire, drop a wrench in the wrong spot ... nothing bad can happen.

Killing the motor with the clutch will work for a while - shortens the life of the clutch. Some people are clutch riders any way and have poor clutch life just like brake riders do in brakes.

Ok so I don't think i fired anything. with a little more time this morning i popped the arm off the right way. and with the arm disconnected. the edic works properly it moves in and out when i push my edic button now. I think when i disconnected it at that pbrass pin. i put it back on clocked wrong somehow and now its binding when the edic motor pushes the arm. any tips on re clocking the arm connection so it moves properly?

 

[duncanrm]

Ok so I don't think i fired anything. with a little more time this morning i popped the arm off the right way. and with the arm disconnected. the edic works properly it moves in and out when i push my edic button now. I think when i disconnected it at that pbrass pin. i put it back on clocked wrong somehow and now its binding when the edic motor pushes the arm. any tips on re clocking the arm connection so it moves properly?

I see now that you've removed the Fuel Control Lever from its shaft.. unfortunately the shaft will have rotated forward and the movement provided by your EDIC rod is not even bringing it close to a "run" position. - additionally you will have lost the TINY little woodruff key that helps lock the shaft to the lever.

All is not lost but you now have to open the governor housing to get the shaft rotated back.. I have a small guide on replacing the leather diaphragm that shows some relevant pictures. In "Step 5" of the guide you can see a photo that shows you what you're dealing with and where the rough "default" position is. You'll really have to clamp down hard on the locking mechanism to clamp it to the shaft without the woodruff key. But it will work.

There's no exactly correct position to set the lever for fuel but it needs to be brought back into the "ballpark" and then you'll be messing with your fuel screw to get the Max Fuel Position correct.. this is all going to be quite problematic - take heart though, its fixable.

Here's two relevant links but I encourage you to visit the Diesel site in my signature for a wealth of other 2H information I've collected and written:

Link 1: How to change the leather diaphragm which will you give you an idea on how to manually move the Fuel Control Shaft that has sprung around whilst you reclock the fuel control level on it. 2H Diaphragm replacement - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZPvljDvzPpgPWnViWyJdNVVkYDdpIe9x_ppJcHW3jX4/pub

Link 2: How to adjust the Max Fuel Screw once you have the shaft about right - you're looking for a tiny bit of smoke under full throttle: 2 new items by Duncan Margetts - https://photos.app.goo.gl/HYrrksp6DhKEpK9V6

I know the above because I once removed the lever in order to drill in a hole in it for a "stop cable" and exactly the same thing occurred..

 

[calen]

What does this little woodruff key look like? I heard something really small drop when I tried putting the arm back on. thought it was a rock as I didnt see anything on the ground that looked like a part. where does this key go? the car is Turning on, so it must be getting into the on position. it just doesnt turn off. Ill dive into your instructions after work, just wanted to see if i could find this woodruf key.

 

[duncanrm]

What does this little woodruff key look like? I heard something really small drop when I tried putting the arm back on. thought it was a rock as I didnt see anything on the ground that looked like a part. where does this key go? the car is Turning on, so it must be getting into the on position. it just doesnt turn off. Ill dive into your instructions after work, just wanted to see if i could find this woodruf key.

Ah... ok.. its possible you may just need a tiny little bit more length on the EDIC Rod now.. have a close look at the rod you can see that its length can be extended.. to confirm, try pushing the fuel control lever forward a tiny bit and see if the engine shuts off.. a video of the fuel control lever when you shut off the ignition would help diagnose if its an electrical issue or a rod length issue.

The woodruff key is tiny - like barely more than the width of a needle and about 10mm long.

 

[calen]

Ah... ok.. its possible you may just need a tiny little bit more length on the EDIC Rod now.. have a close look at the rod you can see that its length can be extended.. to confirm, try pushing the fuel control lever forward a tiny bit and see if the engine shuts off.. a video of the fuel control lever when you shut off the ignition would help diagnose if its an electrical issue or a rod length issue.

The woodruff key is tiny - like barely more than the width of a needle and about 10mm long.

hahaha ok, il take a look on the ground but i doubt it haha. Yeah i believe your right and its just not pushing forward quite enough to turn off. Ill give it some love today and see what i get. thanks man for all your help!

 

[calen]

ok, so i tried first to just lengthen the rod, and I did it while the engine was running and the edic "supposed" to be in the stop position, and started twisting with the intent to stop lengthening at the point the motor shut off. but it never happened. so I assumed when i took the arm off the pin in the fuel pump, i rotated the pin counter clockwise by accident and then put the arm back on. so i loosened up the arm on the pin and removed, rotated the pin a little bit clockwise, and reattached the arm. still wont turn it off. did it again and this time i turned the brass pin till it stopped turning with some springy resistance. this time i didn't put the arm on and just put the arm tip hinge mechanism on the pin so i could just freely push it back and forth. with out the edic motor (motor is working fine). at not point turning that brass pin could i get it to shut the motor off. what did id do removing the arm form this pin?!?!?! ugh. love how all i had to do was yank the arm off. instead i opened up this can of worms for no reason. would love som insight on the rotation of this brass pin in fuel pump.

 

[duncanrm]

You're going to have to open the governor housing to get the shaft rotated more (clockwise) before reattaching the arm.. see the document I linked above regarding the Leather Diaphragm. Alternatively.. attach the Fuel Control Lever further around (more clockwise after removing the fuel control screw) - and use a longer bolt as a Fuel Control Screw.. the thread is metric fine. Sorry - there's no easy answers here.

 

[calen]

damn, Clockwise though? I need it to go counter clockwise more to turn it off. Right now if I take off the arm attachment from the governor pin while the truck is running. should I be able to turn that brass pin with pliers clockwise
til the car turns off?

 

[duncanrm]

damn, Clockwise though? I need it to go counter clockwise more to turn it off. Right now if I take off the arm attachment from the governor pin while the truck is running. should I be able to turn that brass pin with pliers clockwise
til the car turns off?

• Attaching the lever in a more-clockwise position will give you more travel in a counter-clockwise direction.
• Its unlikely you'll get enough grip on the shaft to turn it with a pair of pliers but yes turning the shaft counter clockwise should turn the engine off.

 

[calen]

• Attaching the lever in a more-clockwise position will give you more travel in a counter-clockwise direction.
• Its unlikely you'll get enough grip on the shaft to turn it with a pair of pliers but yes turning the shaft counter clockwise should turn the engine off.

ok, awesome, comming all clearer. I looked at your diaphragm replacement instructions. looks like i can just take the first cover part and the diaphragm out to reach the inner part of that brass pin. this can be done you think with the pump on the block in the car?

 

[duncanrm]

ok, awesome, comming all clearer. I looked at your diaphragm replacement instructions. looks like i can just take the first cover part and the diaphragm out to reach the inner part of that brass pin. this can be done you think with the pump on the block in the car?

Yes.. absolutely no need to remove the pump - however if your HJ47 has the centrifugal oil cleaner fitted above the standard oil filter the space is all a bit more constrained.

After removing the diaphragm you have easy access to another lever attached to the bottom of the shaft ("brass pin" in your words) and it will be super easy to rotate the shaft and hold it in place whilst you re-attach the top lever.

 

[calen]

Yes.. absolutely no need to remove the pump - however if your HJ47 has the centrifugal oil cleaner fitted above the standard oil filter the space is all a bit more constrained.

After removing the diaphragm you have easy access to another lever attached to the bottom of the shaft ("brass pin" in your words) and it will be super easy to rotate the shaft and hold it in place whilst you re-attach the top lever.

phew, hahaha got away again not having to open that thing up lol. was able to turn the pin enough and slide the hinge/tip back on without interfering. she shuts off at a button push once again. hahaha still tried again to find that woodruff key in my dirty filthy alleyway lol. nothin. oh well, were runnin again at 100p

 

[duncanrm]

phew, hahaha got away again not having to open that thing up lol. was able to turn the pin enough and slide the hinge/tip back on without interfering. she shuts off at a button push once again. hahaha still tried again to find that woodruff key in my dirty filthy alleyway lol. nothin. oh well, were runnin again at 100p

Nice, well done!

Has your power or smoke level under load changed? The fuel screw position will likely be a bit messed up.. the screw shown below sets Max Fuel at Wide Open Throttle..

 

[calen]

Nice, well done!

Has your power or smoke level under load changed? The fuel screw position will likely be a bit messed up.. the screw shown below sets Max Fuel at Wide Open Throttle..


View attachment 3712638

seems to be behaving properly, if i find its not ill fiddle with that screw fuggin love this car!!!!

 

[kenjera]

sure enough, it does just pop off. wish i knew that before. I searched for best way to get it off, and found nothing. nothing about how it looks suggests that it pops off. so yeah. I unscrewed this part. this is the brass knub i was talking about that sank into the part when i put the arm back on. pretty sure this is all standard equipment. View attachment 3711362View attachment 3711363
so now i know how to pop the arm off. how do i operate it with no edic right now?

and back to the original question, could I have fried the motor? relay? something else? when the arm connected with the battery?

l'm having edic issues too...but anyway... you can bypass the edic using a cable set up to fuel the rig at start up...connected to the pump..