eatSleepWoof's '18 FSR trailer

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Oct 2, 2018
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Utah
Just curious, how much did you score the trailer for? I'm looking at a used Ruger trailer and similarly doing a slow (and cheap) build. While an Xventure, Turtleback, or Patriot are nice trailers they are super expensive and if I'm spending $20-$40k on a trailer I'd like to be able to sleep in it. I'm somehow worried that once I start adding mods, electrical, RTT, awning, drawers/slides that it will easily put me into the $10-$15k territory which at that point is very close to teardrop trailer prices. Ultimately I guess if I can't do it cheaply then I'd rather just jump into a teardrop trailer.
 
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Vernon, BC
Just curious, how much did you score the trailer for? I'm looking at a used Ruger trailer and similarly doing a slow (and cheap) build. While an Xventure, Turtleback, or Patriot are nice trailers they are super expensive and if I'm spending $20-$40k on a trailer I'd like to be able to sleep in it. I'm somehow worried that once I start adding mods, electrical, RTT, awning, drawers/slides that it will easily put me into the $10-$15k territory which at that point is very close to teardrop trailer prices. Ultimately I guess if I can't do it cheaply then I'd rather just jump into a teardrop trailer.
Your train of thought makes total sense, and I'd also jump into an off-road teardrop if possible.

I would have liked a Ruger myself, but the options here in Canada are very, very limited, so I took what I could get. Paid $8k CAD, (about $6.1k USD right now) which is a pretty decent deal, especially considering the tent itself would run $2-2.5k CAD. This tent also seems to be no longer available, and I'm happy I have it, as it's the roomiest floor plan and the best option from FSR (for my needs).

The mods do add up real quick. So far I'm into (all prices CAD):
~$500 for spare wheel & tire
~$600 for custom aluminum work
~$200 for custom stainless work
~$180 for the basket
~$70 for tongue box
~$700 for the two front runner cross bars (getting these to Canada was stupidly expensive and not something I'd do again)
~$350 for electric drum brakes and wiring
~$25 for turnbuckles
~$40 for misc hardware

So nearly $2.7k CAD sunk into it already, not counting around ~$200 worth of hardware I already had on hand (80/20 materials, skateboard bearings, nuts/bolts/washers/etc).

For comparison, I could order a Smittybilt trailer kit for $10,273.99 CAD (plus taxes, possibly other costs). The Smitty comes with a lot more out of the box, and I think it's generally more useable, due to larger openings, pre-existing slides, already coming with the spare, tongue box, etc. But with the Smitty I'd lose the Timbren suspension, have to wait a few months (goodbye summer), and still have to buy a RTT on top of the price. Win some, lose some. If I were buying in mid winter, I'd probably have gone the Smitty route, but buying in the spring and having the FSR option in front of me, that was more appealing.
 

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
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A parallel train of thought for those of us that don't have much trailer experience, plus add towing a trailer off road on top of that ..... pulling a trailer might not be what you expect or can handle, or enjoy. Tear drops are not cheap and most of the desirable ones have a waiting list with up to a year's wait. Main reason I went the route of spending 1/2 as much for a utility type. Also get a clearer idea of what you really want if and when you spring for a tear drop.
 
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Towing, even on FSRs, is definitely something that changes your camping "style," so to speak. This is the first time I've towed a trailer off-road (not that there was anything technical). Inability to turn around anywhere I wanted was definitely on my mind; it wasn't a problem, but it was something I kept thinking about.

Another thing to consider is how often do you leave your camp, and will you be okay leaving everything as is? The friends that camped with us wanted to go for a hike. I was very nervous leaving the trailer (& LX) unattended in camp, knowing full-well that it would take five minutes for someone to unhook the trailer from my LX and hook it to their own vehicle. With locks everywhere, that time might increase to fifteen minutes. We were gone (hiking) for five hours and I was on pins & needles the entire time, stressing out like you wouldn't believe. I don't think I'll be doing that again unless I take some drastic "security measures" like removing wheels, and spot-welding RTT hardware so it can't be removed without a grinder.
 

ntsqd

technerd
 
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Convert the tongue to one with a removable coupler. Can still be a ball coupler if you prefer, just attach it to a receiver hitch blank. That will make it much harder to take from somewhere remote. (Unless they normally steal stuff with a flatbed tow truck, and then nothing is going to stop that short of a 12 ga.)
My boss uses a long Kryptonite bicycle cable (say something like this: Cable Lock ) looped thru openings in both trailer wheels on the trailer that he leaves parked at work. Won't roll very far like that.
 
Joined
May 18, 2017
Messages
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Vernon, BC
Convert the tongue to one with a removable coupler. Can still be a ball coupler if you prefer, just attach it to a receiver hitch blank. That will make it much harder to take from somewhere remote. (Unless they normally steal stuff with a flatbed tow truck, and then nothing is going to stop that short of a 12 ga.)
My boss uses a long Kryptonite bicycle cable (say something like this: Cable Lock ) looped thru openings in both trailer wheels on the trailer that he leaves parked at work. Won't roll very far like that.
I've thought about doing something like that, yup. I think I do want a maxcoupler, so sometime in the future I'll look into doing both things at once.

And the cable lock won't hurt, either.
 

ntsqd

technerd
 
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On the tear-drop front, why not build it? Have a look at the Tear-drops & tiny trailers forum, particularly here: Design Library and scroll down to "Design Resources"
 

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
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What actually the PO did on mine, since the hitch is adjustable, is use a locking pin to hold the hitch in the desired length. Then when you want to discourage theft, remove the locking pin and remove hitch. Re-install just the locking pin in empty trailer receiver to stop anyone from using using the hitch. You can lock the hitch in a locked compartment, if desired. Pic of my hitch setup - you can see the locking hitch pin just in front of jack.

IMG_0948a.JPG
 
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On the tear-drop front, why not build it? Have a look at the Tear-drops & tiny trailers forum, particularly here: Design Library and scroll down to "Design Resources"
Not an option for me at this time. No fabrication skills, resources, or time, really. But certainly a possibility for some other folks!

What actually the PO did on mine, since the hitch is adjustable, is use a locking pin to hold the hitch in the desired length. Then when you want to discourage theft, remove the locking pin and remove hitch. Re-install just the locking pin in empty trailer receiver to stop anyone from using using the hitch. You can lock the hitch in a locked compartment, if desired. Pic of my hitch setup - you can see the locking hitch pin just in front of jack.

View attachment 2020994
Great idea!
 
Joined
May 18, 2017
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Installed the Smittybilt jerry can holder last night.





Fits the Scepter well, but it's quite tight. If the can swells up, it'll be damn near impossible to get it out. The holder comes with rubbery "clips" on the metal frame, meant to prevent metal on metal rubbing, (if using a metal "nato" can) and I may remove these to get a little more wiggle room.
 
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