East Valley AC shops
- Thread starter sj
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I'm located in SE Gilbert. I'd be happy to look at it for you and either recharge it with R-12 or convert it to 134a. Either way, it should work just fine.
X2222
^^ yup. R12. My 60 with R12 is blowing 26 degrees 
I highly recommend ADS in Chandler. They are on Chandler Blvd and 56th St. They got my A/C going again after my engine swap last year. They work on alot of custom vehicles and muscle cars and the guy that worked on mine owns Toyota Trucks himself and used to be a mechanic at a Toyota dealer. Their pricing was very reasonable as well.
Auto Repair Shop | Automotive Diagnostic Specialties in Chandler, AZ
Auto Repair Shop | Automotive Diagnostic Specialties in Chandler, AZ
^^ yup. R12. My 60 with R12 is blowing 26 degrees
I'm not sold on the notion a properly converted system won't cool down as well. This picture below is from the
's '93 that I converted to 134 last week. Only items replaced in the whole system were o rings and new piggy back fittings. Has a newer blue hub fan clutch, no aux fan. Picture was taken at idle with the hood up.
What about Rex at cool stream? He is going to be working on my project. Very knowledgeable guy about AC.
I second Rex at cool stream for excellent AC information.
Outside ambient temperature has a lot to do with output. Temperature split is a much better way of how well your AC is working.
Lets see your 134 temps when its 105° out.
I regularly see a 40°+ differential in my FJ40
https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/104817-my-fj40-now-cool.html
Outside ambient temperature has a lot to do with output. Temperature split is a much better way of how well your AC is working.
Lets see your 134 temps when its 105° out.
I regularly see a 40°+ differential in my FJ40
https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/104817-my-fj40-now-cool.html
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I'm not sold on the notion a properly converted system won't cool down as well. This picture below is from the
Seems I remember 134A used a different oil in the compressor and changing the oil was the reason for different O rings. I remember this from years ago when the people switching mainly for the cost of R12. Since I have a personal system of R12 never bothered really looking into. Maybe the changind oil really didn't need to be done.
Beside the outside ambient fan speed has someting to do with Temperature splits. Slower the speed the longer it takes the air to cross the coil giving it longer time for heat transfer equals cooler air. Plus a digital thermometer would be alot more accurate than a meat thermometer.
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Seems I remember 134A used a different oil in the compressor and changing the oil was the reason for different O rings. I remember this from years ago when the people switching mainly for the cost of R12. Since I have a personal system of R12 never bothered really looking into. Maybe the changind oil really didn't need to be done.
Beside the outside ambient fan speed has someting to do with Temperature splits. Slower the speed the longer it takes the air to cross the coil giving it longer time for heat transfer equals cooler air. Plus a digital thermometer would be alot more accurate than a meat thermometer.
Using a full size condenser does not hurt
Seems I remember 134A used a different oil in the compressor and changing the oil was the reason for different O rings. I remember this from years ago when the people switching mainly for the cost of R12. Since I have a personal system of R12 never bothered really looking into. Maybe the changind oil really didn't need to be done.
Beside the outside ambient fan speed has someting to do with Temperature splits. Slower the speed the longer it takes the air to cross the coil giving it longer time for heat transfer equals cooler air. Plus a digital thermometer would be alot more accurate than a meat thermometer.
Oil is not a concern on this application (93 FZJ80) because both the R12 and R134 compressors used the same oil.
The point here is that many believe you can't obtain the same level of performance from a system that has been converted over. I disagree.
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R134 is less efficient, so will not run as cool, on an equal system R12 will always beat it. Not saying that R134 will not perform well, only that R12 will always outperform it.
So yours is an early '93? If so, and all you did was replace o-rings and refrigerant, that was a rookie move that will be biting you in the ass soon enough.
R-12 requires mineral oil.
R-134A requires PAG oil.
They are not compatible.
R12 systems use ND6 oil (mineral oil) and R134a systems use ND8 (PAG46) and they don't play well together. There are two oil types that are compatible with both refrigerants, Esther (POE) which offers marginal lubrication and protection, and "Double End-Capped" PAG oils, which are expensive, but are excellent quality.
While retro-fitting to R134a works well in Toyota applications (due to the serpentine condenser design) I have to agree with Tools that ultimately R12 will cool better in identical systems. FWIW, a number of years ago, we took a Chevy pick-up that was originally R134a and put R12 in it and it did cool better. I can't remember the exact specs, but it was noticeable.
I've had both in my 60 and while the 12 does work better with a couple tweaks the 134 will get it done as well as stock with 12. When I switched to 134 with the v8 I added a pusher fan to the condenser and with that the 134 does just as good. The 30$ fan was much cheaper than 220$ in freon.