Early Model LC200 Head Gasket (1 Viewer)

[alexvallorosi]

It's been a minute! Cylinder heads are back from the machine shop. The driver and passenger side both got done. They took off 5 thou and 7 (Driver/Passenger). Going to finish cleaning up the block and start the process today.

 

[alexvallorosi]

A little bit of a break during the holidays but the passenger side head is finally on.

When I was about to get started when I made my last post I realized that I had a gasket set from a 4.7 from the machine shop. So I got that replaced.

I pulled the exhaust studs out of the heads rather than attempt to put the heads in place with the exhaust headers attached like I pulled them out.. hoping I can sneak them in under the heads while they’re on. New exhaust studs coming tomorrow night.

 

[alexvallorosi]

Alright, new progress. It’s been some time but I had to start working on it again. I pulled the passenger side head again and I’m glad I did. I used too much oil to lube the head bolts and it squeezed out under the head gasket. Going to replace that. Also, I know I scratched it when placing the cyl head. I was doing it solo.

Finally pulled the valley plate and got around to resealing it. And then installed the driver side cylinder head.

 

[alexvallorosi]

First time both heads have been on since they came off the motor

 

[alexvallorosi]

I may have made a significant mistake of putting the heads on the motor without the exhaust manifolds attached. This made sense to me when I did it, because it was like threading a needle to pull them out and I didn't want to take the risk of marring the head gaskets if I installed them as one piece.

Anyone got any tips on reinstalling headers while the motor is still in the truck?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Looks like you have the radiator out. Is there enough room to rotate them in from the front (sorry, I've never done this on a 200)? I think you'll have to tighten the bolts through the wheel wells using a bunch of different socket, which will inevitably be painful. If that approach doesn't work, loosen each engine mount and lift an inch or so to enable more room (one side at a time).

 

[alexvallorosi]

Looks like you have the radiator out. Is there enough room to rotate them in from the front (sorry, I've never done this on a 200)? I think you'll have to tighten the bolts through the wheel wells using a bunch of different socket, which will inevitably be painful. If that approach doesn't work, loosen each engine mount and lift an inch or so to enable more room (one side at a time).

That was my first attempt, unfortunately no room through the front or top. However, I was able to sneak the passenger side head in from under the frame. Looks like this is the way. Had ti remove the intermediate exhaust (cats) from the collector to the resonator. There is a frozen (now rounded) exhaust bolt on the other side… and a steering column in the way. So we will see how the driver side goes.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

That was my first attempt, unfortunately no room through the front or top. However, I was able to sneak the passenger side head in from under the frame. Looks like this is the way. Had ti remove the intermediate exhaust (cats) from the collector to the resonator. There is a frozen (now rounded) exhaust bolt on the other side… and a steering column in the way. So we will see how the driver side goes.

Godspeed to you!

On the 100 series (and various other vehicles that I've owned), Lifting the engine 1", after loosening both mounts made it a breeze.

 

[alexvallorosi]

Godspeed to you!

On the 100 series (and various other vehicles that I've owned), Lifting the engine 1", after loosening both mounts made it a breeze.

Thank you, I may do that if I run into struggles with the driver side. I’m sure this will pale in comparison to timing the motor

 

[alexvallorosi]

Here’s a look at how I got the exhaust manifolds into the engine bay. I’m laying down under the frame in this photo just behind the motor. I was able to get the manifolds through both sides and on the driver side I didn’t even have to take apart the front driveshaft.

I had to disconnect the cats from the resonator and kind of twist them out of the way. I had a major frozen bolt on the driver side flange that has been plaguing me since I started the project. I hit it with PB Blaster and was able to pull it out with a spiral bolt extractor socket.

Also, in order to fit the exhaust manifolds through those tight openings, I had to remove secondary air intake pipes and also hangers.

I put studs in the head AFTER the exhaust was already resting in the engine bay. I was a little worried that they would get in the way, but now I don’t think it would have been an issue.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Nicely done! I look forward to hearing about first fire soon!

 

[alexvallorosi]

Got the cam towers bolted up. As predicted, timing is not exactly a breeze the “right” (passenger) bank seems to be timed up but then the driver bank won’t line up. I started with the crankshaft at TDC (keys lined up at about 45*). I lined up the cam pins according to the service manual. I am not sure this is correct or if I can rotate the crankshaft at this point with the passenger bank supposedly in time to get things to line up. I’ve never done this before! lol

 

[Artie]

View attachment 3907851
View attachment 3907852
Got the cam towers bolted up. As predicted, timing is not exactly a breeze the “right” (passenger) bank seems to be timed up but then the driver bank won’t line up. I started with the crankshaft at TDC (keys lined up at about 45*). I lined up the cam pins according to the service manual. I am not sure this is correct or if I can rotate the crankshaft at this point with the passenger bank supposedly in time to get things to line up. I’ve never done this before! lol

Excuse my complete ignorance on this task but are the chain tensioners engaging properly? I’ve done a few belts and chains on other vehicles before and depending on the spring versus hydrolic tensioner I’ve ran into similar conundrums.

I’m certain someone on here can lead you to the correct timing solution… I’m just spitballing here.

 

[bloc]

I'd love to help but haven't messed with 3UR cam timing yet.

Paging @Taco2Cruiser and @AcmeSys

 

[alexvallorosi]

Excuse my complete ignorance on this task but are the chain tensioners engaging properly? I’ve done a few belts and chains on other vehicles before and depending on the spring versus hydrolic tensioner I’ve ran into similar conundrums.

I’m certain someone on here can lead you to the correct timing solution… I’m just spitballing here.

The tensioners seem fine. The problem seems to happen here:

If you align the knock pins according to the FSM, then the chain won’t line up with the timing mark on the crankshaft timing gears. I had to turn the crankshaft to before TDC to get the passenger bank to time up. Now if I want to get the driver bank to time up, I would have to turn the crankshaft clockwise some amount

 

[Artie]

The tensioners seem fine. The problem seems to happen here:
View attachment 3908014

If you align the knock pins according to the FSM, then the chain won’t line up with the timing mark on the crankshaft timing gears. I had to turn the crankshaft to before TDC to get the passenger bank to time up. Now if I want to get the driver bank to time up, I would have to turn the crankshaft clockwise some amount

My comment was more aimed at hydrolic tensioners and how they won’t be at tension without oil pressure vs sprung ones.

But I better understand your issue now and looking forward to hearing the discourse on it.

Again, I’m a shade tree mechanic whose skill level would be considered “doesn’t use vice grips as wrenches”.

 

[alexvallorosi]

My comment was more aimed at hydrolic tensioners and how they won’t be at tension without oil pressure vs sprung ones.

But I better understand your issue now and looking forward to hearing the discourse on it.

Again, I’m a shade tree mechanic whose skill level would be considered “doesn’t use vice grips as wrenches”.

Good point, yes the lifters have been collapsed and have no tension. Chain tensioners have some spring tension but not hydraulic tension. I think I have the motor in time. I basically just turned the passenger bank and crankshaft back to after TDC by rotating the crankshaft, then was able to line up timing marks on driver bank. Then rotated the crankshaft for like 20 minutes straight observing pistons drive up when exhaust valves were opening and down when intake valves were opening. After turning it over a bunch of times the timing marks lined up yet again, I did this multiple times to confirm. Of course, there is very little tension without oil pressure so the chain did slack on a position in the rotation then it would tighten back up when valve springs and springs in the hydraulic tensioners sprung back out.

 

[AcmeSys]

verify crank at TDC by putting a piece of wire down the #1 plug hole rotating crank back and forth to get it dead nuts (i use tig rod). doesn't take much to advance or retard the cams to the point you are fighting for 1/2 a tooth on the chains and nothing goes together.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

This is all that I can contribute, a youtube link:

 

[alexvallorosi]

verify crank at TDC by putting a piece of wire down the #1 plug hole rotating crank back and forth to get it dead nuts (i use tig rod). doesn't take much to advance or retard the cams to the point you are fighting for 1/2 a tooth on the chains and nothing goes together.

Yeah I just ended up doing this with a small wooden stick and then just advancing the motor until the timing lined up. Seems alright