The shaft is machined in the range of 13mm STUB. No heat treatment is required, the material chosen is suitable for solicitations applied to the shaft. see map
earlier pto on later setup?
- Thread starter daniel.watters
- Start date
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To assemble the guide on the housing, it is necessary to install the drive shaft fork to ensure balance and refine as necessary the housing surface to allow good seat and ensure a good seal. Final assembly is performed using three M4 screws mounted in holes, tapped in the housing
The shaft supports the control rod as a whole is also found on the other side, the best way to stop the tree, is to resume the original thread. Cut a piece of flat and screw it into place. Orient the tree to place the link, so you can maneuver the shaft then fourchette.Souder all.
The final output shaft must be cut back side and opening clogged by plaque, itself, taken on the 4 screws holding the bearing housing.
Then present the PTO amended, and control the backlash of pignons.Corriger if necessary by placing a hold from a few tenth of a millimeter, between the casing and the casing of PF transfer box. The easiest way is to reproduce the joint paper on a sheet of aluminum of equivalent thickness to desired setting.
This system works on the vehicle since 1986 and about 300,000 km in the teeth and a lot of winching. The amendment to place the order from back to front is more recent and dates from 2000. No particular problems so far on the PTO.
The old PTO of BJ4 before 1980 are trading at reasonable prices and can still rendrent great service.
The old PTO of BJ4 before 1980 are trading at reasonable prices and can still rendrent great service.
I think that's it.. if I can find the "link" to it i'll provide as well. it was in french, I ran the site thru google translation. I am curious if one could just move the PTO gear the correct distance on the output of the transmission intead of moving all the internals in the pto gearbox. and do you have to move the input/output lever to the other side with and H55 or not.. i'm not there yet but hope this helps.
FWIW I just took a drive shaft off of my 77 bj43 (with a one piece case) and put it on the bj44 (with a split.) Same length!
Pete
Pete
Well hers is the way i fitted a early PTO to a split case on a 4 speed hj47. I drilled and ground the pto case to fit the split case. I then removed the rear half of the t/case and ground it out to clear the pto idler gear. I then removed the pto drive gear and spacer on the gearbox mainsharft and cut 4mm off the spacer and added a 4mm spacer behind the pto drive gear and bearing. This alained the pto drive gear and the idler in the pto box. I have en early pillow block and made a new frount braket. I also had to cut 20mm out of the long drive sharft. It all seems to work ok.
And the braket
Tornadoalleycruiser and Aussie 25, thanks for sharing the info on the mods to the older gearbox. Very interesting, ummm me want a pto for my 47. Glad this one came back up to the top of the list.
Aussie 25, how long have you had the pto with the mods?
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Aussie 25, how long have you had the pto with the mods?
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Aussie 25, can you please post some more photos of the fitment between the pto gearbox housing and the transfer case.
Soot
Soot
Here is is the ground areas and why.
Areas 1 is to get the case it miss other bolts and be able to get the hex keys is as it is very tight space.
Area 2 is to get the idler sharft to miss the boult in the T/case
Grind half the head off the T/case bolt.
Grind 1.5mm off both ends off the pto idler sharft to stop the welsh plug getting pushed out.
Grind 3mm off the flat are where the pto idler keeper is.
Area 3 Grind 4mm out of the T/case.
And put the spacer in as decribed before.
Fit a .75 mm.
Alloy yourself a few hours , but not to many beers.
Areas 1 is to get the case it miss other bolts and be able to get the hex keys is as it is very tight space.
Area 2 is to get the idler sharft to miss the boult in the T/case
Grind half the head off the T/case bolt.
Grind 1.5mm off both ends off the pto idler sharft to stop the welsh plug getting pushed out.
Grind 3mm off the flat are where the pto idler keeper is.
Area 3 Grind 4mm out of the T/case.
And put the spacer in as decribed before.
Fit a .75 mm.
Alloy yourself a few hours , but not to many beers.
The rest of the pickies and the tools.
Aussie 25, thanks for posting up what mods you did to get it to work. It will be a great reference for those looking at adding a PTO winch to their cruiser and with the low availability of split case pto gearboxes, this is a great option available to them.
Soot
Soot
